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Making Holes, Jigsaw Or Router??

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  • Making Holes, Jigsaw Or Router??

    Haven't built THAT many spks, but just bought new plunge router....LOT more sawdust.....Wondering what everyone elses preferances are, reasons and/or opinions ???? Thanx to all that respond ....

  • #2
    Router with a circle jig does a good job. Accurate and looks nice.

    https://www.parts-express.com/jasper...l-200--365-250

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    • #3
      Like most woodworking there are multiple ways to do the job. The most widely used is a circle jig of some sort. I have had great success in using a circle jig to cut the main hole and a rabbiting bit to recess the driver.
      My reasoning for starting with the main hole is to use that as the foundation and building off of the main hole as I do the recess and relief cuts and then any other hole modifications like terminal notches.

      I have used inlay bit sets and top bearing mortise bits for odd shaped frames. If you are used to template cutting these methods would work well for all baffle cutting needs.

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      • #4
        I use both. I use the router and a circle jig to get the recess part done, then I cut the opening with a jig saw. The newer jig saws and carbide blades really plow through wood, so it's a quick operation. Yeah, I hate MDF dust is nasty, right?

        Here's a link to a thread that shows how I cheat when doing driver recesses: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...to-cheat-today

        TomZ
        Zarbo Audio Projects Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEZ...aFQSTl6NdOwgxQ * 320-641 Amp Review Youtube: https://youtu.be/ugjfcI5p6m0 *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
        *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF

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        • #5
          I use both but for different purposes: for flush mounting drivers a router and circle jig are essential. I use a hole saw for vent tubes, easier than using the router.

          The speed, noise and dust produced by a router scared me at first, but now I'm fine with a router - I use a cordless Ryobi which is less scary than a mains operated one. You must use good quality bits to avoid clogging and smoke, and use a proper face mask when cutting MDF.

          I use a jigsaw only when the driver doesn't have to be flush mounted and the ragged edges produced by a jigsaw are hidden: for example, Peerless woofers often don't require flush mounting.

          The Jasper jig is brilliant

          Geoff

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          • #6
            S.G. , I am doing the same thing at this time . And this has been a learning experience being my first time out as well . I have an ollld craftsman 1 hp router , and a Jasper model 300 circle jig that I'm none to fond of . I did both the flush cut and then cut out with them . I probably did something wrong but I set the jig at 12" ( I had laid out my speakers on the mdf ) so I checked out where the router bit would fall ,,, it was out around 13"+ ! . I ended up taking out a machinists scale , lining , centering and drilling the jig to where the bit NEEDED to fall ! Another downside of the #300 is it stops at 7" (bs) ,,, I did the above to the jig and it's down to 3" . I'm building 3 separate enclosures for the drivers .

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            • #7
              99/100, I will go to my router. The other time, a fostner or holesaw. More sawdust yes, but way more accurate than any jigsaw.
              https://www.facebook.com/Mosaic-Audi...7373763888294/

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Dusty Dunes View Post
                S.G. , I probably did something wrong but I set the jig at 12" ( I had laid out my speakers on the mdf ) so I checked out where the router bit would fall ,,, it was out around 13"+ ! . I ended up taking out a machinists scale , lining , centering and drilling the jig to where the bit NEEDED to fall ! Another downside of the #300 is it stops at 7" (bs) ,,, I did the above to the jig and it's down to 3" . I'm building 3 separate enclosures for the drivers .
                The Jasper jig is meant to be accurate using a 1/4" dia. bit. Otherwise, no idea what you did to have such a large error. I have both sizes of Jasper jigs, they work just fine for me, very accurate.

                The Jasper is convenient, you can make your own circle jig easily enough.

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                • #9
                  The rule of thumb for routers, go slow, buy quality router bits as you need them and avoid bulk inexpensive bits.

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                  • #10
                    How well does the jasper jig work for converting drivers that are in mm? For example, the Peerless I just used was right around 180mm and the TB W41337 I also just finished holes for is 125mm but my hole was 126mm and still was too tight. I keep wanting to buy one as my homemade jig is not that accurate, but they just seem expensive for a piece of plastic.

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                    • #11
                      Djg , the shank size was a 1/4" , it should have been "spot on ". I actually "fine tuned" the cut by using different diameter bit (1/4-1/2) It was anything but . The bit was centered in the jig hole , either way the holes for my bass , and mid's look nice and are concentric . I've had the Jasper 300 for about 10 years and finally unwrapped it a week ago . Since I'm new I haven't been able to post a new thread . I know somewhat of what SG69 is feeling .

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by scottvalentin View Post
                        How well does the jasper jig work for converting drivers that are in mm? For example, the Peerless I just used was right around 180mm and the TB W41337 I also just finished holes for is 125mm but my hole was 126mm and still was too tight. I keep wanting to buy one as my homemade jig is not that accurate, but they just seem expensive for a piece of plastic.
                        I like my Jasper Jig. Maybe a little pricey at first, but it will pay for itself in time saved and accuracy. If I had a 126mm hole to cut, I would just use my Jasper jig and cut a 5" hole. It's only about .04" larger than 126mm. I always just round up to the next 1/16" when I need an in between size hole, close enough for me.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by stargate69 View Post
                          Haven't built THAT many spks, but just bought new plunge router....LOT more sawdust.....Wondering what everyone elses preferances are, reasons and/or opinions ???? Thanx to all that respond ....
                          Does your plunge router have a dust collection port? I had one for 4 years before I hooked it up to my shop-vac. Now I won't even fire it up without the hose attached. Zero dust. I never use my jigsaw anymore unless I'm cutting square holes for terminals.

                          Also, no links allowed, but you can download the CAD files for an infinitely adjustable circle jig for free in the blog section on the Creative Sound Solutions website.

                          Dan
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                          • #14
                            There's like a whole bunch of holes in the Jasper jig. Only one of them is the right one for a particular dia. hole

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by scottvalentin View Post
                              How well does the jasper jig work for converting drivers that are in mm? For example, the Peerless I just used was right around 180mm and the TB W41337 I also just finished holes for is 125mm but my hole was 126mm and still was too tight. I keep wanting to buy one as my homemade jig is not that accurate, but they just seem expensive for a piece of plastic.
                              A jig with fractional inch markings will not "convert" anything to the Metric system. Are you saying the Tang Band is ACTUALLY 125 MM in dia. and the hole you attempted to fit it in is ACTUALLY 126 mm in dia.? And the hole was too tight?

                              I use the Jasper jig by using an inch scale to measure the ACTUAL driver dia. in inch increments, then setting up the jig to make the nearest size hole erring on the large side. Then I make a test cut on scrap. Many times people are cautioned here not to cut rebates or holes for speakers they don't have in hand for actual measurement, and not to count on diagrams or ad specs.

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