Lots of good ideas here. My mind is spinning with ideas for my next build. Your template process is excellent. The only down side that I can think of is that this would not work if the contour radius of the driver flange fell below the radius of the router base. But I would imagine that this problem, if it came up with a particular driver flange, could be solved by installing a custom router base. Keep up the good work. That driver flange fits like a glove!!
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Originally posted by JavadS View PostGood question! Just insert the pin and it bottoms out on the base, no problem. Also be sure youre removing the router base and replacing it with the jasper jig, dont overlay it on the stock base. HTH, Javad
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Originally posted by 4thtryLots of good ideas here. My mind is spinning with ideas for my next build. Your template process is excellent. The only down side that I can think of is that this would not work if the contour radius of the driver flange fell below the radius of the router base. But I would imagine that this problem, if it came up with a particular driver flange, could be solved by installing a custom router base. Keep up the good work. That driver flange fits like a glove!!--
Javad Shadzi
Bay Area, CA
2-Channel Stereo system in the works with Adcom components and 4-way towers
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Originally posted by a4eaudioJavad, I see you tested the kerfing with plywood before using the solid poplar. What is your opinion of the two? Does the poplar kerf better, worse or indifferent compared to plywood?--
Javad Shadzi
Bay Area, CA
2-Channel Stereo system in the works with Adcom components and 4-way towers
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Ok, lets get back to it, enough ********!
Vlog detailing the doweling and clamping process
https://youtu.be/4dimHqwhx2Y
Back glued on, time to do some flush trimming... Had an issue that the back was square and didnt match the 3 degree taper of the sides, a normal flush bit but wont work due to the angle.
Simple solution is a flush trim bit and some 3/4 MDF, I set the bit depth to just under 3/4, a small 1/64 lip will be easily sanded off. (BTW got this Bosc Router for $79, really nice unit)
Top and bottom were easily flush trimmed with a 1/4 bit
Now ready for some CLD! I know I said I was going to use the silicone, and it would work well, but I decided I didnt want to deal with squeeze out on this so here we have two 2x2 sheets of 40 durometer sorbothane
Rough cut to size
Glue applied to enclosure
Doweled top and bottom pieces about to be trimmed
Trimming in my new 14 band saw
Sorbothane glued to enclosure
Wood glue applied to wood and more adhesive applied to sorbothane, I did a glue up of both ends at the same time
Clamp up
Nice tight joints even on the kerfed areas which tend not to be perfectly flat after bending
More to come thanks!
JavadLast edited by JavadS; 01-11-2018, 01:57 AM.--
Javad Shadzi
Bay Area, CA
2-Channel Stereo system in the works with Adcom components and 4-way towers
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Ok so I pulled the first top/bottom CLD glue up out of the clamps, and I glued up the second enclosure. BTW this is what a loaded up bar clamp is supposed to look like =)
This is what I started with after the glue dried. Notice the masking tape over the kerfs, since its common for the flush cut bit to skim the surface, this helps protect the relatively thin top layer of the kerf
Spiral cut up cut bit by CMT, really nice cuts like a dream
And after the flush cut
Tape off
I did some quick initial sanding with 80 grit, Ill be sanding the kerfs by hand as to not sand too deep, finally starting to look like a speaker!
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Javad Shadzi
Bay Area, CA
2-Channel Stereo system in the works with Adcom components and 4-way towers
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Little more done tonight, I started by sanding the kerfed areas, this was a little nerve racking as I didnt want to sand through, after using this technique below by hand I finally built up some confidence and carefully sanded it with 150 grit in my RO sander, that went well. I was able to almost completely sand out the kerfs but Im not sure I want to go all the way, see images below
After finish sanding the whole enclosure with 220, I applied a 1/2 roundover to all top, back and bottom edges
Trick with a 1/4 shank bit, bury it in the collet to prevent any flex of the shaft for a smoother cut.
Barely any burning or marks, full speed and full pass, ready for a quick sand with 220
Left edge after sanding, right before
All sanded and ready for the next step!
Thanks!
Javad--
Javad Shadzi
Bay Area, CA
2-Channel Stereo system in the works with Adcom components and 4-way towers
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Man! The patterns between sapwood and heartwood on the top half of that speaker are gorgeous! Can't wait to see how those finish up. Keep up the good work! Sent from my SM-N900V using TapatalkLast edited by KEtheredge87; 01-12-2018, 10:21 AM. Reason: Didn't intend to quote Javad there... Your pictures are pretty, but I don't mean to double-up your post!
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