Pretty Persuasions - InDIY Coax Build Thread

[4thtry]

Lots of good ideas here. My mind is spinning with ideas for my next build. Your template process is excellent. The only down side that I can think of is that this would not work if the contour radius of the driver flange fell below the radius of the router base. But I would imagine that this problem, if it came up with a particular driver flange, could be solved by installing a custom router base. Keep up the good work. That driver flange fits like a glove!!

[scottvalentin]

Good question! Just insert the pin and it bottoms out on the base, no problem. Also be sure you’re removing the router base and replacing it with the jasper jig, don’t overlay it on the stock base. HTH, Javad

Thanks Javad. How long are the Jasper Jig pins?

[JavadS]

Thanks Javad. How long are the Jasper Jig pins?

[JavadS]

Lots of good ideas here. My mind is spinning with ideas for my next build. Your template process is excellent. The only down side that I can think of is that this would not work if the contour radius of the driver flange fell below the radius of the router base. But I would imagine that this problem, if it came up with a particular driver flange, could be solved by installing a custom router base. Keep up the good work. That driver flange fits like a glove!!

[JavadS]

[xmax]

Gotta love Harbor Freight clamps!

[a4eaudio]

Javad, I see you tested the kerfing with plywood before using the solid poplar. What is your opinion of the two? Does the poplar kerf better, worse or indifferent compared to plywood?

[JavadS]

Javad, I see you tested the kerfing with plywood before using the solid poplar. What is your opinion of the two? Does the poplar kerf better, worse or indifferent compared to plywood?

[ellisr63]

I would love to hear these speakers! Sent from my SM-T550 using Tapatalk

[JavadS]

I would love to hear these speakers! Sent from my SM-T550 using Tapatalk

Come to InDIYana =)

[JavadS]

Ok, let’s get back to it, enough ********!

Vlog detailing the doweling and clamping process

https://youtu.be/4dimHqwhx2Y

Back glued on, time to do some flush trimming... Had an issue that the back was square and didn’t match the 3 degree taper of the sides, a normal flush bit but won’t work due to the angle.

Simple solution is a flush trim bit and some 3/4” MDF, I set the bit depth to just under 3/4”, a small 1/64” lip will be easily sanded off. (BTW got this Bosc Router for $79, really nice unit)





Top and bottom were easily flush trimmed with a 1/4” bit





Now ready for some CLD! I know I said I was going to use the silicone, and it would work well, but I decided I didn’t want to deal with squeeze out on this so here we have two 2x2 sheets of 40 durometer sorbothane



Rough cut to size



Glue applied to enclosure



Doweled top and bottom pieces about to be trimmed



Trimming in my new 14” band saw



Sorbothane glued to enclosure



Wood glue applied to wood and more adhesive applied to sorbothane, I did a glue up of both ends at the same time





Clamp up



Nice tight joints even on the kerfed areas which tend not to be perfectly flat after bending





More to come thanks!
Javad

[JavadS]

Ok so I pulled the first top/bottom CLD glue up out of the clamps, and I glued up the second enclosure. BTW this is what a loaded up bar clamp is supposed to look like =)



This is what I started with after the glue dried. Notice the masking tape over the kerfs, since it’s common for the flush cut bit to skim the surface, this helps protect the relatively thin top layer of the kerf



Spiral cut up cut bit by CMT, really nice cuts like a dream



And after the flush cut





Tape off





I did some quick initial sanding with 80 grit, I’ll be sanding the kerfs by hand as to not sand too deep, finally starting to look like a speaker!

[JavadS]

Little more done tonight, I started by sanding the kerfed areas, this was a little nerve racking as I didn’t want to sand through, after using this technique below by hand I finally built up some confidence and carefully sanded it with 150 grit in my RO sander, that went well. I was able to almost completely sand out the kerfs but I’m not sure I want to go all the way, see images below



After finish sanding the whole enclosure with 220, I applied a 1/2” roundover to all top, back and bottom edges



Trick with a 1/4” shank bit, bury it in the collet to prevent any flex of the shaft for a smoother cut.



Barely any burning or marks, full speed and full pass, ready for a quick sand with 220







Left edge after sanding, right before





All sanded and ready for the next step!







Thanks!
Javad

[KEtheredge87]

Man! The patterns between sapwood and heartwood on the top half of that speaker are gorgeous! Can't wait to see how those finish up. Keep up the good work! Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

[Derekj]

Looking good!