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Pretty Persuasions - InDIY Coax Build Thread

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  • JavadS
    replied
    Little more done tonight, I started by sanding the kerfed areas, this was a little nerve racking as I didn’t want to sand through, after using this technique below by hand I finally built up some confidence and carefully sanded it with 150 grit in my RO sander, that went well. I was able to almost completely sand out the kerfs but I’m not sure I want to go all the way, see images below



    After finish sanding the whole enclosure with 220, I applied a 1/2” roundover to all top, back and bottom edges



    Trick with a 1/4” shank bit, bury it in the collet to prevent any flex of the shaft for a smoother cut.



    Barely any burning or marks, full speed and full pass, ready for a quick sand with 220







    Left edge after sanding, right before





    All sanded and ready for the next step!







    Thanks!
    Javad

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  • JavadS
    replied
    Ok so I pulled the first top/bottom CLD glue up out of the clamps, and I glued up the second enclosure. BTW this is what a loaded up bar clamp is supposed to look like =)



    This is what I started with after the glue dried. Notice the masking tape over the kerfs, since it’s common for the flush cut bit to skim the surface, this helps protect the relatively thin top layer of the kerf



    Spiral cut up cut bit by CMT, really nice cuts like a dream



    And after the flush cut





    Tape off





    I did some quick initial sanding with 80 grit, I’ll be sanding the kerfs by hand as to not sand too deep, finally starting to look like a speaker!



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  • JavadS
    replied
    Ok, let’s get back to it, enough ********!

    Vlog detailing the doweling and clamping process

    https://youtu.be/4dimHqwhx2Y

    Back glued on, time to do some flush trimming... Had an issue that the back was square and didn’t match the 3 degree taper of the sides, a normal flush bit but won’t work due to the angle.

    Simple solution is a flush trim bit and some 3/4” MDF, I set the bit depth to just under 3/4”, a small 1/64” lip will be easily sanded off. (BTW got this Bosc Router for $79, really nice unit)





    Top and bottom were easily flush trimmed with a 1/4” bit





    Now ready for some CLD! I know I said I was going to use the silicone, and it would work well, but I decided I didn’t want to deal with squeeze out on this so here we have two 2x2 sheets of 40 durometer sorbothane



    Rough cut to size



    Glue applied to enclosure



    Doweled top and bottom pieces about to be trimmed



    Trimming in my new 14” band saw



    Sorbothane glued to enclosure



    Wood glue applied to wood and more adhesive applied to sorbothane, I did a glue up of both ends at the same time





    Clamp up



    Nice tight joints even on the kerfed areas which tend not to be perfectly flat after bending





    More to come thanks!
    Javad
    Last edited by JavadS; 01-11-2018, 01:57 AM.

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  • JavadS
    replied
    Originally posted by ellisr63 View Post
    I would love to hear these speakers! Sent from my SM-T550 using Tapatalk
    Come to InDIYana =)

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  • ellisr63
    replied
    I would love to hear these speakers! Sent from my SM-T550 using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • JavadS
    replied
    Originally posted by a4eaudio
    Javad, I see you tested the kerfing with plywood before using the solid poplar. What is your opinion of the two? Does the poplar kerf better, worse or indifferent compared to plywood?

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  • a4eaudio
    replied
    Javad, I see you tested the kerfing with plywood before using the solid poplar. What is your opinion of the two? Does the poplar kerf better, worse or indifferent compared to plywood?

    Leave a comment:


  • xmax
    replied
    Gotta love Harbor Freight clamps!

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  • JavadS
    replied

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  • JavadS
    replied
    Originally posted by 4thtry
    Lots of good ideas here. My mind is spinning with ideas for my next build. Your template process is excellent. The only down side that I can think of is that this would not work if the contour radius of the driver flange fell below the radius of the router base. But I would imagine that this problem, if it came up with a particular driver flange, could be solved by installing a custom router base. Keep up the good work. That driver flange fits like a glove!!

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  • JavadS
    replied
    Originally posted by scottvalentin
    Thanks Javad. How long are the Jasper Jig pins?

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  • scottvalentin
    replied
    Originally posted by JavadS View Post
    Good question! Just insert the pin and it bottoms out on the base, no problem. Also be sure you’re removing the router base and replacing it with the jasper jig, don’t overlay it on the stock base. HTH, Javad
    Thanks Javad. How long are the Jasper Jig pins?

    Leave a comment:


  • 4thtry
    replied
    Lots of good ideas here. My mind is spinning with ideas for my next build. Your template process is excellent. The only down side that I can think of is that this would not work if the contour radius of the driver flange fell below the radius of the router base. But I would imagine that this problem, if it came up with a particular driver flange, could be solved by installing a custom router base. Keep up the good work. That driver flange fits like a glove!!

    Leave a comment:


  • JavadS
    replied
    Originally posted by scottvalentin
    Here's a circle cutting question Javad: I just got the Bosch 1617 plunge router for Christmas, and I noticed that the base is fairly large. How do you go about cutting out smaller circles where the guide pin for the jig would end up under the router base? For instance, the SB19 tweeter rebate that I need to do next is a 44mm radius, this will put the guide pin under the black base. My circle guide is a piece of acrylic that I screw to the bottom. Then I measure from the outside of the cutting bit to circle's centre (44mm) and drill a hole in the acrylic. Like a Jasper jig, but a fair bit cheaper!

    Leave a comment:


  • scottvalentin
    replied
    Here's a circle cutting question Javad:
    I just got the Bosch 1617 plunge router for Christmas, and I noticed that the base is fairly large. How do you go about cutting out smaller circles where the guide pin for the jig would end up under the router base? For instance, the SB19 tweeter rebate that I need to do next is a 44mm radius, this will put the guide pin under the black base. My circle guide is a piece of acrylic that I screw to the bottom. Then I measure from the outside of the cutting bit to circle's centre (44mm) and drill a hole in the acrylic. Like a Jasper jig, but a fair bit cheaper!

    Leave a comment:

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