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Pretty Persuasions - InDIY Coax Build Thread

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  • JavadS
    replied
    Time to install some drivers!

    This is the layout



    As I’ve done before, this is the process for an odd shaped driver Template.

    First protect your driver and screw it down to a sacrificial MDF panel, 1/2” works great.



    Next with a perfectly centered router base, trace around the frame with a 1/4” spiral bit, put an even layer of masking tape around the driver frame to slightly over size the template



    Now on a new sacrificial piece, trace around the inside of the first sacrificial Template



    This leaves you with a template 1/4” oversized

    Now using a 3/4” Templating fixture, trace around the second sacrificial template to get the final template perfectly sized to the driver







    With centering reference lines it is quick and easy to align the fixture on your baffle



    Here is a quick blog describing the process: https://youtu.be/q5hltXG6X-Y

    Here we have two enclosures ready to destroy, I mean flush mount drivers in! =)



    Test cuts finalizing OD, ID and recesses

    Marked and ready to go with logic check tracings



    Midrange ID cut



    8” recess and cutout





    Position driver exactly where it needs to go, install fishing line in driver holes



    Now with double sided tape on template, slide it over the driver frame and attach it firmly, then pull the driver out. This process perfectly positions the template centered around the driver cutout







    Flush trim bit



    And router



    Test fit



    Next port tube routering.

    Thanks!
    Javad

    Leave a comment:


  • ceiol
    replied
    beautiful craftsmanship

    I have so much to learn...

    Leave a comment:


  • JavadS
    replied
    Originally posted by jhollander View Post

    Speaking of which are you shipping these to Fort Wayne?
    I will be yes!

    Leave a comment:


  • jhollander
    replied
    Originally posted by JavadS View Post
    Good thing is they won't be that heavy so they'll be easily transportable, thanks for following!
    Javad
    Speaking of which are you shipping these to Fort Wayne?

    Leave a comment:


  • JavadS
    replied
    Originally posted by tomzarbo View Post
    Man, if I ever come to California, and visit you, and we're listening to music, and there is an earthquake..... I am for sure going to hide under a few of your speakers for safety... you build them like tanks!
    TomZ
    Thanks for the comments guys! And haha Tom, yea I like a good overkill for sure! Good thing is they won't be that heavy so they'll be easily transportable, thanks for following!
    Javad

    Leave a comment:


  • tomzarbo
    replied
    Man, if I ever come to California, and visit you, and we're listening to music, and there is an earthquake..... I am for sure going to hide under a few of your speakers for safety... you build them like tanks!
    TomZ

    Leave a comment:


  • xmax
    replied
    Awesome build! That MCM woofer looks great for the money. Faital Pro never disappoints either!

    Leave a comment:


  • KEtheredge87
    replied
    Originally posted by JavadS View Post

    Each brace was cut out with a jig saw and finalized to shape in my Wen desk top oscillating sander (love it btw!)
    Hey Javad, As usual your build logs are a blast to follow. The pictures are awesome and help inspire me to get my own InDIYana project into the sawdust phase. I'm glad you like that WEN benchtop sander. I've been considering one myself, if not for all the other money being spent in other places in life!

    Keep up the great work! I'll be even more excited to hear these in April!

    Leave a comment:


  • gowa
    replied
    Nice!

    Leave a comment:


  • hittheskids
    replied
    Thanks for the great photos and write-ups. Always a pleasure to follow your builds.

    Leave a comment:


  • JavadS
    replied
    Ok time for some bracing!

    I started with a tracing of each enclosure since they vary slightly, this gave me a template for all the other braces. Ultimately I needed a top and bottom brace, a brace for the midrange enclosure and 3 additional braces approx every 4””





    Each brace was cut out with a jig saw and finalized to shape in my Wen desk top oscillating sander (love it btw!)





    Tracing the midrange enclosure













    Port tube plate



    Ports are recessed and the ID is purposely undersized so I can flush trim them through the baffle



    Here is a vlog I made describing the braces https://youtu.be/j-bqIJalovo

    And all glued and finalized braces Detail of the mid enclosure





    The end caps are spaced 1/8” from the eventual top/bottom for some CLD treatment



    Thanks!
    Javad

    Leave a comment:


  • JavadS
    replied
    Originally posted by Millstonemike View Post
    Javad, I'm a novice at serious woodworking. And being that, left on my own, I would have filled the kerfs with wood glue prior to bending into shape - well not completely and wiping up after the bend. As I'm sure you know, the glue joints on softer wood are stronger than the wood itself. What do you think? Some got ya' as to why you shouldn't?
    Mike great question! Wood glue works and I tested it, issue is it runs out of the kerfs, construction adhesive has incredible adhesive strength as well and it’s a paste so it doesn’t run at all and fills the voids nicely and dries. Javad

    Leave a comment:


  • JavadS
    replied
    Originally posted by donradick View Post
    Javad - excellent use of innovative techniques and writeup as usual. I had to read about the midrange truncated trapeziod cuts several times, but I think I get it now. The chop saw is just cutting a 45 degree angle as usual, but the board is positioned at an angle so the miter on the slanted sides comes out perfectly. Complex stuff for my head! I imagine it's like anything else, once you do it a few times it becomes clear.
    Don basically instead of tilting the blade for the compound cut, you tilt the material and do it that way, works like a charm!

    Leave a comment:


  • Millstonemike
    replied
    Originally posted by JavadS View Post
    Tom thanks for the comments and thoughts! You think like I do, sequentially from one issue to another as they relate to each other.

    I think like this for weeks leading up to a project and all through it testing ideas in my head before I ever actually try them.

    There is some Faceting but it’s very light and it is sandable, so Poplar is really an ideal material here and performed much better than plywood and MDF during my tests. MDF is very weak too when it’s thin (corners too) so I’d use it very carefully.

    Yes I’’ve thought that a pointed blade would be amazing for kerfing but haven’t seen one on the market, a blade that formed an angle would be great as it would allow the kerfs to miter together which would also be stronger.

    You’’ll notice the shape of this speaker closely resembles my Strafi speaker so this is another experiment in creating a speaker baffle with a generous roundover (3”” radius).

    Thanks for the conversation Tom!
    Javad
    Javad, I'm a novice at serious woodworking. And being that, left on my own, I would have filled the kerfs with wood glue prior to bending into shape - well not completely and wiping up after the bend. As I'm sure you know, the glue joints on softer wood are stronger than the wood itself.

    What do you think? Some got ya' as to why you shouldn't?

    Leave a comment:


  • donradick
    replied
    Javad - excellent use of innovative techniques and writeup as usual.
    I had to read about the midrange truncated trapeziod cuts several times, but I think I get it now.
    The chop saw is just cutting a 45 degree angle as usual, but the board is positioned at an angle so
    the miter on the slanted sides comes out perfectly. Complex stuff for my head!

    I imagine it's like anything else, once you do it a few times it becomes clear. <g>

    Leave a comment:

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