Originally posted by KEtheredge87
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SevenSixTwo - InDIYana 2018 Coax Design
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What length port did you model, and what is the physical length of your port? When you put a slot port in that utilizes the bottom and side walls like you have, it will effectively add length to your port. Also, since your port is on the bottom, placing it on a large flat surface (like a table top) could also extend the effective port some more. This could be part of the reason for attaining lower actual tuning than you have modeled.
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Originally posted by KEtheredge87 View PostThanks Marvin! Yeah... gravity clamps are the bestBack in my solar car days in college we used old lead acid batteries for the same thing. Three cheers for high density materials!
Another alternative is to assemble everything on a workbench that is open underneath and use ratchet straps wrapped around.
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Originally posted by 1100xxben View PostWhat length port did you model, and what is the physical length of your port? When you put a slot port in that utilizes the bottom and side walls like you have, it will effectively add length to your port. Also, since your port is on the bottom, placing it on a large flat surface (like a table top) could also extend the effective port some more. This could be part of the reason for attaining lower actual tuning than you have modeled.
Hi Ben, I made several iterations of bass-box models and port length adjustments before zeroing in (check out post number 70 in this thread). I had measured with DATS until the Fb matched BassBox. The port length is modeled as 12.75" long x 4" wide x 0.75" high. The internal width of the whole cabinet is 8 inches, so I made a slot port tunnel from MDF and glued it to the bottom of the cabinet before opening up the baffle's slot entrance with my router and flush trim bits. The baffle thickness itself is 1.25", so the actual port length inside the cabinet is ~11.375". On the front baffle, the slot port has a flush face without roundover. This is likely to transfer to the final design even though I did my CAD work assuming I would add a 3/8" roundover to that edge for a bit of flaring. Inside the cabinet, the slot port terminates with a 1/4" roundover applied to the internal edges of the slot to be a little bit of a flared end. I doubt this little of a flare really translates to the modeling programs well, so I guess you could consider this a single flush end with free other end?
You make an interesting point that I hadn't considered regarding the port effective length. The recent test sweeps I had been doing were on the carpeted floor with the cabinet laid on it's side. I'll take another sweep here in a bit with the cabinet back up on the testing stand. That should remove any possibility of external influence.
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OK. Thankfully I was doing something silly in BassBox. While I was accounting for known volumes of stuff inside the cabinet, I included the volume occupied by the slot port itself. I was double counting that, since the program already takes into account the volume occupied by the port (including the wall thickness). Geeze... I wish my mistakes were easier to catch!
I also triple checked all settings on the BB study, and ended up replacing the driver values with my most recent DATS T/S parameter measurements, which surely helped the realism factor a bit. While all of that was spinning around my head, I decided to take out a bunch of the lining foam, assuming that I was either choking the port, using way too much lining foam, or just accidentally augmenting the effective length of the port from the inside (thanks 1100xxben for sparking the idea). I left a bit of foam on the back wall, but nothing else, and this gained about 1.5 Hz of Fb.
Now, my Fb is measuring at 28.9 Hz, and BB is modeling at 30.4 Hz. I'm comfortable calling measured Fb within 1.5 Hz of the prediction as good enough. This gets my F3 back into the mid-low 30's without as much of an EBS-style alignment, where I was flirting with F3 in the low 40's during my mistake earlier today.
Maybe... just maybe... I can get back to taking some honest to goodness XO design measurements tomorrow! What a detour today has been.
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Looks like you're working through the variables well (use measured TS, account for your volumes, etc.). One major factor that doesn't get near enough attention though, is end correction, specifically the fact that it is just assumed by software and the user never considers/questions it. Most software just assumes one, some assign one based on user settings and let you see/change it (unibox), and the best (Soundeasy) don't bother with an end correction at all. They leave it to the user to determine, because if varies so much with different construction methods there is no point in guessing. So you do have to have some experience in working out what you need for EC, but in the process you'll learn a lot more about how different construction methods impact it.
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Originally posted by augerpro View PostLooks like you're working through the variables well (use measured TS, account for your volumes, etc.). One major factor that doesn't get near enough attention though, is end correction...
Unfortunately, I don't get a real chance to fine-tune the end correction value in Bassbox, I'm left to pick from their options. The two flush end choice gave a predicted Fb that was almost identical to my measurement, but I hesitate to use that since it feels inappropriate to the actual cabinet.
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What EC did Bassbox spec? Can you change it? If so, put in 100%, then backwards sim the Fb until it matches the measured Fb in DATS. Calculate the actual end correction. Now you know that for a smallish box, with a certain lining/filling, and slot port with approx. that design, that is the end correction you should use in the future.
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Hi Everyone, Quick update this morning. I finally got to take some FRD measurements for all the drivers last night. I fumbled through the blending process for nearfield and farfield measurements and came out with what I think is correct. PCD is doing something interesting though. All of my FRD response files appear to be smooth, yet there's a funny little discontinuity in two places (biggest at 1500Hz, little one at ~5500Hz).
Wonder what that's about?
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Looks like you're done.... 40Hz to 20kHz +- 20dBElectronics engineer, woofer enthusiast, and musician.
Wogg Music
Published projects: PPA100 Bass Guitar Amp, ISO El-Cheapo Sub, Indy 8 2.1 powered sub, MicroSat, SuperNova Minimus
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Originally posted by PWR RYD View PostBoy that tweeter response is going to be a bugger to work with.. Time will tell what I can do!
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Originally posted by wogg View PostLooks like you're done.... 40Hz to 20kHz +- 20dB
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Originally posted by jhollander View PostThe little blips might not be anything depending on if your measurements were smoothed. Anything less than 1/48 smoothing might be hiding a spike you will want to see.
IMO, typical tweeter in a deep guide. It should fill in off axis, but that will be the x-o challenge.
I did take ~20 degree off axis measurements of the coax as you recommended, but I haven't imported those into PCD yet to see how they look. I assume those 20 deg files do not get combined with nearfield measurements?
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