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Has anyone used this waveguide with any of these tweeters does the surround line up ok?
How about coloration? Thinking about this as a next "hobby" project.
1Photo
Guess xmax's age.
My guess: 15. His grammar is passable. His trolling is good.
I can't speak for the fitment but I think they only come in black. If you talk to Erich at DIYSG he may be able to tell you what people have used the SEOS with successfully.
The seos 8 does come in white as well. He has them in matte and gloss. Not sure if it fits the TL tweeters. I have a pair of round ceramics they allens they use protrude above the faceplate. I dont want to remove the faceplate to check it i have the mesh screen on and dont want to damage the ceramic cone on accident.
When I was testing the waveguides with some Dayton models with screws that were above the face plate (like the DC28FS), I just drilled out 1/8" deep hole where those screws touched the plastic on the waveguide flange. Once you do that, they sit flat on the back of the waveguide.
Don't remove the faces on the TLabs, as the domes are glued to the faces.
Wolf
"Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith
Has anyone used this waveguide with any of these tweeters does the surround line up ok?
How about coloration? Thinking about this as a next "hobby" project.
My gut tells me that you'll like what the SEOS-8 does with the T-labs tweeter. You will likely lose part of the top octave due to the steep walls of the throat, but the guide will give control down to nearly 1KHz and allow you to easily cross that T-labs with lots of large woofers. Not sure how you get the SB to mate up properly since its faceplate isn't flat. You need to make sure there are no gaps to the side of the dome or you'll get all kinds of nasty cavity resonances.
When I was testing the waveguides with some Dayton models with screws that were above the face plate (like the DC28FS), I just drilled out 1/8" deep hole where those screws touched the plastic on the waveguide flange. Once you do that, they sit flat on the back of the waveguide.
i have a pair of DC28F's , how did they work out ?
My gut tells me that you'll like what the SEOS-8 does with the T-labs tweeter. You will likely lose part of the top octave due to the steep walls of the throat, but the guide will give control down to nearly 1KHz and allow you to easily cross that T-labs with lots of large woofers. Not sure how you get the SB to mate up properly since its faceplate isn't flat. You need to make sure there are no gaps to the side of the dome or you'll get all kinds of nasty cavity resonances.
Thank you for the info, I would take the SB faceplate off, I have a CNC so I could mod the WG for clearance.
Guess xmax's age.
My guess: 15. His grammar is passable. His trolling is good.
Xmax, if you get the waveguide to fit right recessed let me know the dimensions. I can give you what i have but its not an exact fit. My first 2 tries on the cnc were a fail. I dont know what radius the corners are but the 2 i cut there was a gap. Im going to need to measure it manually were the curves start and estimate it. No drawings are available for them unfortunately. I got a few more coals in the fire before i can get back to doing more test cuts on them.
Bummer there is no drawing, I will surely share a DXF when I get to it, unfortunately it is a "hobby" effort on top
of my regular speaker work that pays the bills.
Guess xmax's age.
My guess: 15. His grammar is passable. His trolling is good.
I have a waveguide for the N26 on the way from the printer right now. You could use my measurements for the tweeter mounting surface if you have the older tweeter. The new one changed the holes and screw positions. When I settle on a design I'll adapt it to the new tweeter. With a shallower waveguide it is really tight allowing a big enough cutout for the faceplate screws without punching through the wall of the waveguide.
Np, i have the 2 external dimensions 4.600" height and 8.660 length. It is 0.325 thick. The vertical line length before the round corner of the height is 3.360" and the long side is 6.910" before the rounded edge. I dont know what diameter the rounded edge is but it has to be bigger than 1/2" to 1" diameter or the origin is in a weird location. Hope that helps you get a headstart.
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