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Doing some headphone messing around....

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  • Doing some headphone messing around....

    Being that Peerless/Tymphany has a 50mm headphone unit that piqued my interest:
    https://www.parts-express.com/peerle...ragm--264-1510

    I set out for a plan to implement them. The central cone is hard paper, not the usual mylar, so it should be relatively stiff. In theory the losses will be less pistonically. The VC is a 1", and the unit is well vented.

    I found these two 50mm frame choices that are very low cost just to give these a try:
    https://www.parts-express.com/pyle-p...ones--248-4414
    https://www.parts-express.com/tascam...black--246-301

    The Tascam were OOS, and the Pyles were cheaper, so I ultimately ordered the Pyle frames. Being that I have genuine (yes, there are fakes/copies such as these and others) Sony MDR-V700DJ headphones, I'm familiar with the frame style, and the fit and comfort level. These Pyles are not quite as strong or durable, but still fit me rather nicely.

    To those that think I gutted them from the get-go, I didn't, and actually listened to them as they were first. I was pleasantly surprised at the price point. The bass sounds a bit high-Q, but solid, and the mids are present without being forward. The treble can be a bit sibilant though. Still- for $25 I don't think I've heard better. That said- I highly recommend removing the Pyle logos on the cups (they're ugly anyway), and sealing the hole in what was the left one on my pair. This improves the left to right balance in terms of both focus and isolation. I placed tape across the hole on the outside, and that partially fixed it. The full solution was to fill the hole with E6000 adhesive, and they were much better after that.

    To the breakdown of the frames/drivers....

    The cushions come off rather easily. The stock elements are glued lightly to the back of a plastic face with integrated grill. Removal of 3 small screws removes the faces from the cups. Be advised the leads are soldered to the drivers, so be careful after the screws are removed. You don't want to break off the leads at the wire inlets so the leads are easier to work with. For the uninitiated, or just to mark polarity, when snipping the wires, leave about a 1/4" of colored wire on the original drivers' terminals. The red and blue are positives, and the copper color is the joined negative. I reused the original wiring, as that made this much easier of a swap. A light work around the inset of the elements with a small flat-bit screwdriver removes them rather easily. I did drill the grill center out with a 1/4" drill bit to make the grille more open in the center than it was. There is a divot in the grill center easy to use as a pilot for this process. There are 3 raised parts on the backside of the grill that I snipped off and cut flush to avoid any possible contact by the paper cone while under operation. Also on the faces is what looks like a piece of felt tape. This is applied over 2 small vents below the elements to likely be a tuned bass vent into the ear-cups for the listener. I would not recommend removing this tape, as bass will likely become overblown- unless you want that. There are also vents below the back of the cups on the outside, likely for heat/ventilation concerns and for the wearer to have longer term comfort. (These external vents are also on my Sony cans. I have not had them apart to see if the inner cup vents are present, but I doubt it.)

    There is no damping in the cup chambers as purchased, but I feel a little won't hurt., so I plan to add a bit of cotton to each cup.

    Element measurements on my WT2:

    Click image for larger version

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    And the Peerless drivers:

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    Measurement notes: The thing to note is that these diaphragms are very low mass, and that breathing, any kind of shock or vibration to the device, or thumping or even just hand holding the elements under test will severely alter the measurements I posted above. Alligator clips on the frame edge and contacting the solder pads were the method of connection.

    The Fs is lower, and the Qts is also lower on the Peerless units, so the bass should be better, extend lower, and not sound quite as loose in theory. The tones on the WT2 testing revealed a pretty strong peak at about 3.5k, so I hope that won't need to be tamed. It also shows a peak in the datasheet from the Peerless units from Tymphany, but the response is otherwise smooth as they tested it. The bass will of course come up when placed in a headphone application.

    In that direction, I went and looked at SL's ERS-4 article about passive equalization for reference headphones or in-ear monitoring, just in the case that this would need to be altered.
    http://www.linkwitzlab.com/reference_earphones.htm

    I am currently sitting awaiting glue to dry, so I have not yet installed the newer elements/faces into the sacrificial frames. I just went around the perimeter with E6000 to secure the elements into the faces.

    Back of altered grill/face, you can see the tape covered vents to the right of the central area:

    Click image for larger version

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    More to come,
    Wolf
    "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
    "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
    "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
    "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

    *InDIYana event website*

    Photobucket pages:
    https://app.photobucket.com/u/wolf_teeth_speaker

    My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
    http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

  • #2
    One last photo of the drying new Peerless units, the older units for visual comparison, and the possible damping supplies:
    Click image for larger version

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    Later,
    Wolf
    "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
    "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
    "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
    "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

    *InDIYana event website*

    Photobucket pages:
    https://app.photobucket.com/u/wolf_teeth_speaker

    My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
    http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

    Comment


    • #3
      I'm interested in your results. I've got a pair of Sennheiser HD 201 that are really great headphones on the cheap. I think I paid $20 on a Black Friday special a few years ago. My ONLY complaint about them is that they are a little thin on the low end. I'd be curious to see if those Peerless transducers would be worth installing.

      If you want to try some Ultratouch denim for damping, let me know. I've got a whole bag laying around.

      Comment


      • #4
        Mr. Clean Magic Eraser (or generic equivalents) is useful for modifying headphones. It's a very porous open-celled melamine foam that cuts cleanly.

        Comment


        • #5
          May I safely assume there will be a full compliment of Blue LEDs added at some point (hopefully soon)?
          Sausage With Meat Sause, Please

          Comment


          • #6
            https://www.innerfidelity.com/headphone-measurements

            Some good information in there.
            Don't listen to me - I have not sold any $150,000 speakers.

            Comment


            • #7
              Coop- I'm really hoping these sound good.

              Humphrey- I don't really know how I would use that. Thanks for the info, and anything else you might like to inform me of.

              JR- thanks for that. I know the ear canal really changes the response, and without a special 'head with microphone ears' I really can't get what is normally assumed for measured response. I might be able to take a nearfield, but that's about it I fear.

              I hope to install at some point this afternoon...
              Wolf
              "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
              "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
              "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
              "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

              *InDIYana event website*

              Photobucket pages:
              https://app.photobucket.com/u/wolf_teeth_speaker

              My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
              http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

              Comment


              • #8
                Okay, some more information....

                I just happened to check the B/T controls on the Anthem that I was using to test the phones with, and they were BOTH at +14dB!!! This is likely the first I've used the headphone out on this particular unit, so I wasn't the person that set them. Suffice to say that the Pyles are likely pretty anemic on their own with the original elements. Therefore, I retract what I said earlier about the Pyles.

                I have listened to the Peerless at no EQ and full EQ, as well as the Sony pair at full EQ (before I noticed the issue); just for comparison sake. The Peerless units sound quite nice, at full or no EQ. They are also quite capable. Toms and kick drum sound palpable at no EQ, but the weight could use a bit of a goose to +2 to +4 dB I suppose. The extension is also decent in both places. They do not sound sibilant, though the midrange was a bit more murky than the Sonys, which are very liquid. The Sonys have a bit better definition on the top-end, but not by very much. I tested with KXM, Jennifer Warnes, Ryan Adams, and maybe one other selection.

                Being that when I bought the Sonys, I paid about $150, and that these Pyle-to-Peerless conversions cost me about 50 clams, I'd say they are worth what I paid for them, if not a bit more. I think the mod is worth it.

                As to installation, I was only able to get about half a cotton piece into each of the earcups, and then covered with the very open poly sheet squares as shown above between the cotton and the elements.

                Here's how they measured installed:
                Click image for larger version

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                I'm pretty satisfied, but I might still try some EQ tweakage on that spot at 3.5k, just to see...
                Wolf
                "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
                "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
                "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
                "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

                *InDIYana event website*

                Photobucket pages:
                https://app.photobucket.com/u/wolf_teeth_speaker

                My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
                http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

                Comment


                • #9
                  Sounds like a fun project, but something is not right here. Preinstallation average Fs=66, Qt=0.41. After installation average Fs=61, Qt=0.21. That's a hell of a break in to drop Fs by 5hz and Qt by 0.2 while also enclosing them. Are you sure those numbers are right?
                  -Bob

                  The PEDS 2.1 mini system
                  My A7 Project - another small desktop speaker
                  The B3 Hybrid Dipole - thread incomplete and outdated

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I know my WT2 doesn't lie, at the same time, I didn't even question it. I know that headphone elements are very loose naturally. When placed in an enclosure, the parameters will change drastically. There will be much more mechanical damping than if not placed in an enclosure. I would not say that they act like your average dynamic speaker driver. I also know that the earcups are felt-damped venting structures, so the Qtc will be lower than that of the single driver alone. It's very much like that of an aperiodic enclosure. The Fs change I don't know the reason of.

                    Later,
                    Wolf
                    "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
                    "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
                    "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
                    "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

                    *InDIYana event website*

                    Photobucket pages:
                    https://app.photobucket.com/u/wolf_teeth_speaker

                    My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
                    http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Wolf
                      Humphrey- I don't really know how I would use that. Thanks for the info, and anything else you might like to inform me of.

                      Comment

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