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  • augerpro
    replied
    I've got a waveguide printed out and just waiting for a replacement tweeter - i was careless and dented the dome on the one I had. PE lists new ones as shipping in November. I'll post results in my 3D printed waveguide thread.

    Leave a comment:


  • dcibel
    replied
    An easily removable face plate and nice flat mounting surface make this tweeter a no-brainer for waveguide application. If Tymphany had a factory made option, or even a pre-designed 3D printable model that would simplify things even further for the DIYer.

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  • gbullimore
    replied
    the faceplates are stainless steel, so that they can be thin enough to give the acoustic performance we are looking for, but still be strong enough,
    and yes, there are no additional magnets holding the grille,

    they work well in waveguides, these was designed to measure well in a totally flat thin faceplate, which means a (hard to achieve) raw response, as it's 'adjusted' by the faceplate/chamfer loading,
    this flat raw response, means that you get a very honest performance in a waveguide, largely determined by the WG, rather than the anomalies of the TW FR + WG interaction.

    Leave a comment:


  • Eijahscott
    replied
    Anybody have any measurements in a wave guide?

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  • jhollander
    replied
    I thought they were steel but my magnet does not stick to them. There must be enough of a magnet behind the face plate to hold the grill on.

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  • Wolf
    replied
    According to the blurb from the manufacturer, they are steel faces.
    Wolf

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  • Eijahscott
    replied
    Some da25’s I cut down to get closer to the woofer. The plate seems to be aircraft aluminum. At first I thought it was steel because it’s very strong for its thinness. These will be rear mounted and a small wave guide to be done. Not sure if I’ll do a simple 45 degree chamfer or round over. I’ll have a spare test piece I was going to try both and see which is better.

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  • Wolf
    replied
    It's not all that strange. A lot of SS domes are done this way.

    Later,
    Wolf

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  • Shakey
    replied
    From this picture, it appears as though the voice coil leads are sandwiched between the carrier and the faceplate. Kinda strange


    Click image for larger version

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    Attached Files

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  • xmax
    replied
    Originally posted by ecj View Post
    There was a bit of excess surround glue that stuck to one side of the faceplate but the faceplate didn't appear to be intentionally glued down, at least on the tweeter I opened. I'd imagine the surround could lift off the carrier if the faceplate was stuck to it all the way around.
    Yup, mine are stuck on "good", looking at it again using the grill I might be able to push down on it and set it free...
    If not the WG can be modded to work anyway.

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  • ecj
    replied
    There was a bit of excess surround glue that stuck to one side of the faceplate but the faceplate didn't appear to be intentionally glued down, at least on the tweeter I opened. I'd imagine the surround could lift off the carrier if the faceplate was stuck to it all the way around.

    Leave a comment:


  • xmax
    replied
    Originally posted by ecj View Post
    Few pics for those interested, the faceplate aperture is 35mm and the grill diameter is 40mm. The cast faceplate is very thin at 1.5mm but seems rigid enough. Could be a nice feature for anyone that hates dealing with flush mounting. Some moderate spl distortion tests showed very low distortion to 1khz.

    Trying to find a fault, I wonder if thermal compression might be a limiting factor when crossing this tweeter over really low. It doesn't have fluid cooling or the coil surface area of tweeters like the old RS28, Morels, etc. But maybe that thick copper cap will wick enough heat into that heatsink? Just a thought.
    The tweets I have seem to have the V.C. and dome "carrier" is glued to the face plate, are yours?

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  • fdieck
    replied
    I couldn’t have said it better.

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  • Pete Schumacher
    replied
    Originally posted by Squidspeak View Post

    Not to be confrontational but with my limited knowledge I do realize there is a magnet on the transducer, If I am correct it is mounted on the rear of the driver. What I
    was asking if there was a measurable difference with or without the screen in place. It would seem that if the magnet was strong enough to hold a metal screen in
    place there might be a difference all things considered.
    The screen has no magnet. Keep in mind that the magnet may be on the back, but the motor system, the gap formed by the pole and yoke, are right next to the faceplate, and that anything ferrous, screwdrivers, staples, screws, will be accelerated toward the gap where the magnetic field is concentrated.

    If there's any difference to be discerned it will be from the occluding effects of the screen and not the small change it would make to the motor system.

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  • Squidspeak
    replied
    Originally posted by fdieck View Post
    A speaker already has the magnet. The screen just has to be steel.
    Not to be confrontational but with my limited knowledge I do realize there is a magnet on the transducer, If I am correct it is mounted on the rear of the driver. What I
    was asking if there was a measurable difference with or without the screen in place. It would seem that if the magnet was strong enough to hold a metal screen in
    place there might be a difference all things considered.

    Leave a comment:

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