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Little problem with amiga build

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  • Little problem with amiga build

    Okay so I ordered this amiga kit from PE and on Carmody's page, he says that the 4.7 ohm resistor should be swapped with a 2.4 ohm with the current DX25TG59-04 tweeter. The kit supplied by PE came with the DX25TG59-04 tweeter but with the old 4.7 ohm resistor instead of the 2.4.

    I emailed PE but in the meantime, Carmody mentions that I can put another 4.7 ohms resistor across the tweeter leads to get a parellel resistors pair of 2.35 ohms. Can I use any resistor or does it need to be a special "audio grade" resistor like the ones supplied with the kit ? I don't have access to those locally. It's a bummer and I hope PE will update their kit because that revision is not new at all, it's been on carmody's page for a very long time.

    Thanks for your help and so far, I've done both baffles and the backs are veneered as well. First time veneering and first time doing round cut outs with my router, I'm pleased with the results !





  • #2
    I bet if you contact PE customer service they will send you the correct resistors for free.

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    • #3
      I'll wait for their answer then. One question, one mounting the crossover, would it be smart to mount them on the back panel directly behind the woofer that way, if one day the xo fails, I can easily take it out from the woofer opening. Otherwise, if I put it at the bottom, it will never be accessible again. What should I use to mount the xo vertically on that mdf wall ?

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      • #4
        I never worry about that, but yes, behind the woofer is a good place. If you made your crossover all on the same side of the board then use short screws. If you put the wires through holes and wired it together opposite the components, or tywrapped the coils and other heavy items, you'll need standoffs of some kind.

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        • #5
          yeah I'm gonna have to use standoffs. I'll glue the standoff to the mdf and then screw the xo into the standoffs.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by matc View Post
            yeah I'm gonna have to use standoffs. I'll glue the standoff to the mdf and then screw the xo into the standoffs.
            I screw the standoff to the board and then glue it down after the cabinet is assembled. That way I'm not trying to blindly find screw holes at awkward angles for that first install. Only if I have to pull it out later.

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            • #7

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              • #8
                Well my first cabinet is almost done now and it might be very tight to place the xo behind the drivers...I might have to put it somewhere else where it will never be accessible again once the cab is closed. I guess I'm worrying too much, those xo should last a very long time right

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                • #9
                  Yes they should! Don’t sweat it!

                  Have Fun! Mark

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                  • #10
                    Make sure they work before you button them up.

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                    • #11
                      I know it's not the usual practice, but I've made all my speakers with detachable backs for maintenance, eg if I want to play around with stuffing or if a crossover goes bung, etc.

                      I haven't noticed any air leaks or other issues with this approach.

                      I use a thin rubber gasket to seal the join. The bad thing about doing this is that there's a seam which I can't get rid off where the back panel joins the side.

                      Geoff

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                      • #12
                        Guys, another question ! I'm now ready to prepare the crossovers, should I use the same wire gauge to connect the xo compononents and connecting the xo to the drivers and binding posts to xo ?

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                        • #13
                          Much of the time (almost always) I can config. the parts layout to simply connect the XO components using their own leads. A single "twist" with one good (small) solder joint will facilitate any future disassembly that might be required.

                          To connect the XO to the drivers, stranded 18 gauge would be more than adequate (since the runs are short). Heck, my (1973) Large ADVE\TS (10" 2-way) used something like #22 solid wire to hook everything up! (That doesn't even LOOK right.)

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                          • #14
                            I've been doing exactly the same as Chris (Post 13) forever, both on making the layout such that most of the connections are made with only components' leads, and 18 AWG wire otherwise, solid on the crossover and stranded to the drivers.
                            Paul

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