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Finalist speakers, Tower version. Advice needed concerning TL vs Ported

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  • Paperweight
    replied
    One thing I was reading on bracing is that the size of the brace can help to some degree. I think I will stick with the original four braces. It took forever to notch out the two pieces to get a snug fit and not split the wood or stab my hand further with a chisel.

    I was tinkering with 13" thickness planar blades to see if I can sharpen them. They really need an angled holder to sharpen them safely. It's not smart to hold them in your hand as you sharpen them. Derp.

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  • Steve Lee
    replied
    Looks quite sturdy - should work fine.

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  • Paperweight
    replied
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    Ok, I ended up cutting one of the 9 1/2" x 6 3/8" panels into this chunky monkey cross brace. I added the end blocks so I'd have some chance of hitting it with the pin nailer during glue up. I ended up making the cross pieces 2" by the plywoods 18mm thickness. The little blocks were made from a 3rd 2" piece. I gave all the edges a chamfer with the stupid sharp Hock blade equiped 5 1/4 plane.

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  • djg
    commented on 's reply
    That's what I do.

  • Steve Lee
    replied
    It helps to increase interior volume of the cabinet - it has no effect upon internal resonances.

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  • Paperweight
    replied
    Interesting. I assume rounding the edges over on braces helps air flow to some degree?

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  • Chris Roemer
    replied
    Most of the work done by a window brace is from the center "X" (or "+"), nearly none is done by the outer "frame".
    The most efficient way to brace is simply to run straight pieces (1" dowels, or square stuff) between opposite walls.

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  • Steve Lee
    replied
    Then do that - it will work just fine and you won't be wasting so much lumber/money.

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  • Paperweight
    replied
    Yeah, it was either that or plunge route out the centers. Now I'm thinking I have so much scrap, I could cut 1" strips and glue them up into window braces with a center cross piece. That way I could fix the problem of them being too narrow.

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  • Steve Lee
    replied
    Yes, you can use a hole saw or a jig saw - none of them have to be perfect.

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  • Paperweight
    replied
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    Dry fitting the front panel and window braces on the woofer section. I have yet to cut out the centers of the window braces and I cut them exactly 6 3/8" without factoring in the center panel being under 3/4" width. This cabinet is starting to feel like a practice run for working out the kinks and figuring out what not to do.

    What's the best way of cutting out the centers of 9 1/2" x 6 3/8" window braces? Can you use a fairly large hole saw bit in a drill press and remove four holes leaving a cross piece in the center for better bracing or leave like 1 1/2" of wood all around the outer edge and remove everything else?

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  • Paperweight
    replied
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    3 panels glued up. Not too many mishaps so far. The back panel I cut 1/8" short but I can fill the gap with a small piece of plywood. I keep accidently shooting a few pins too close to the edge and have them pop out. A cutting wheel on a Dremel takes care of that and a few passes with a sanding block to knock the bump down.

    I need to vacuum and organize.

    Edit: Learned yet another lesson. Measure the thickness of your plywood before you make plans around it being 3/4" thick. It's 3/64" under. Welp.

    Also, a 3" diameter port needs a 3 1/8" diameter hole. Well, I'll know on the 2nd speaker.
    Last edited by Paperweight; 10-16-2021, 10:22 PM.

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  • Paperweight
    replied
    I'll post pics later today but I glued up my first two panels. I didn't do too much damage with the new pin nailer and it is fit relatively correct. It takes me a while to cut out a panel, dimention it down to size and square up all the edges with a handplane but the edges are clean and flat enough that the panels can stand up when I'm done.

    I love my Veritas 5 1/4 jack plane. Their A2 steel is good but I can never get it quite as sharp as the A2 Hock blade I put in a generic, rough new manufacture 5 1/2. So I ended up getting a 2" A2 Hock blade for the 5 1/4. That worked out perfect. I use the heavier 5 1/2 with a shooting board for removing large amounts of material on the edges. When it gets down to the last 1/16", I grab the more accurately made Veritas for fine tuning the squareness of all four corners. The block plane comes in handy for spot smoothing and fixing an edge after the glue is dry.

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  • Paperweight
    replied
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    Didn't get a lot done on the cabinet. I got the 45 degree chamfer on the back of the hole for the mids done. This was on the inner front baffle. I had my father do it on his router table. I tried to do it in one go in short bursts on a failed third test piece. I think I may have toasted that bit and burned the wood in the process. Whoops.

    I ended up spending two days resealing a 25 year old 18 gauge Bostitch brad gun. Actually got it working. It's so weird what pathways I've gone down in the persuit of building a pair of speakers. I've learned to sharpen plane blades and chisels which is weird for an electronics guy.

    I'm now waiting on a 23 gauge pin nailer to arrive. I think I can glue up the panels, pin nail it and clamp it. The pins leave a much smaller hole and no head to worry about. It's another option instead of the brads. They just need to be strong enough to hold things in place and keep them from sliding out of alignment after glue is applied. Nothing is more annoying then putting the clamps on and watching everything slide out of place.
    Last edited by Paperweight; 09-26-2021, 09:54 PM.

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  • Paperweight
    replied
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    I carefully shaved the PVC tunnel braces down 1/4". I cut out a 1/4" sheet of ply and added 1/8" ply to the top of it to add some rigidity. I then cut two pieces of 3/4" ply with a 45 degree angle to fit under the tunnel and have something for the sides to glue to and for whatever mounting scheme I come up with to sit on top of the woofer cabinet.

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    This might end up working out.

    Edit: Discovered the usefulness of a brad nailer to keep parts from sliding around during glue up and clamping. Thankfully, I invested in a decent air compressor not long ago.
    Last edited by Paperweight; 09-19-2021, 08:01 PM.

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