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Finalist speakers, Tower version. Advice needed concerning TL vs Ported

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  • Steve Lee
    replied
    It helps to increase interior volume of the cabinet - it has no effect upon internal resonances.

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  • Paperweight
    replied
    Interesting. I assume rounding the edges over on braces helps air flow to some degree?

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  • Chris Roemer
    replied
    Most of the work done by a window brace is from the center "X" (or "+"), nearly none is done by the outer "frame".
    The most efficient way to brace is simply to run straight pieces (1" dowels, or square stuff) between opposite walls.

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  • Steve Lee
    replied
    Then do that - it will work just fine and you won't be wasting so much lumber/money.

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  • Paperweight
    replied
    Yeah, it was either that or plunge route out the centers. Now I'm thinking I have so much scrap, I could cut 1" strips and glue them up into window braces with a center cross piece. That way I could fix the problem of them being too narrow.

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  • Steve Lee
    replied
    Yes, you can use a hole saw or a jig saw - none of them have to be perfect.

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  • Paperweight
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    Dry fitting the front panel and window braces on the woofer section. I have yet to cut out the centers of the window braces and I cut them exactly 6 3/8" without factoring in the center panel being under 3/4" width. This cabinet is starting to feel like a practice run for working out the kinks and figuring out what not to do.

    What's the best way of cutting out the centers of 9 1/2" x 6 3/8" window braces? Can you use a fairly large hole saw bit in a drill press and remove four holes leaving a cross piece in the center for better bracing or leave like 1 1/2" of wood all around the outer edge and remove everything else?

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  • Paperweight
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    3 panels glued up. Not too many mishaps so far. The back panel I cut 1/8" short but I can fill the gap with a small piece of plywood. I keep accidently shooting a few pins too close to the edge and have them pop out. A cutting wheel on a Dremel takes care of that and a few passes with a sanding block to knock the bump down.

    I need to vacuum and organize.

    Edit: Learned yet another lesson. Measure the thickness of your plywood before you make plans around it being 3/4" thick. It's 3/64" under. Welp.

    Also, a 3" diameter port needs a 3 1/8" diameter hole. Well, I'll know on the 2nd speaker.
    Last edited by Paperweight; 10-16-2021, 10:22 PM.

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  • Paperweight
    replied
    I'll post pics later today but I glued up my first two panels. I didn't do too much damage with the new pin nailer and it is fit relatively correct. It takes me a while to cut out a panel, dimention it down to size and square up all the edges with a handplane but the edges are clean and flat enough that the panels can stand up when I'm done.

    I love my Veritas 5 1/4 jack plane. Their A2 steel is good but I can never get it quite as sharp as the A2 Hock blade I put in a generic, rough new manufacture 5 1/2. So I ended up getting a 2" A2 Hock blade for the 5 1/4. That worked out perfect. I use the heavier 5 1/2 with a shooting board for removing large amounts of material on the edges. When it gets down to the last 1/16", I grab the more accurately made Veritas for fine tuning the squareness of all four corners. The block plane comes in handy for spot smoothing and fixing an edge after the glue is dry.

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  • Paperweight
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    Didn't get a lot done on the cabinet. I got the 45 degree chamfer on the back of the hole for the mids done. This was on the inner front baffle. I had my father do it on his router table. I tried to do it in one go in short bursts on a failed third test piece. I think I may have toasted that bit and burned the wood in the process. Whoops.

    I ended up spending two days resealing a 25 year old 18 gauge Bostitch brad gun. Actually got it working. It's so weird what pathways I've gone down in the persuit of building a pair of speakers. I've learned to sharpen plane blades and chisels which is weird for an electronics guy.

    I'm now waiting on a 23 gauge pin nailer to arrive. I think I can glue up the panels, pin nail it and clamp it. The pins leave a much smaller hole and no head to worry about. It's another option instead of the brads. They just need to be strong enough to hold things in place and keep them from sliding out of alignment after glue is applied. Nothing is more annoying then putting the clamps on and watching everything slide out of place.
    Last edited by Paperweight; 09-26-2021, 09:54 PM.

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  • Paperweight
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    I carefully shaved the PVC tunnel braces down 1/4". I cut out a 1/4" sheet of ply and added 1/8" ply to the top of it to add some rigidity. I then cut two pieces of 3/4" ply with a 45 degree angle to fit under the tunnel and have something for the sides to glue to and for whatever mounting scheme I come up with to sit on top of the woofer cabinet.

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    This might end up working out.

    Edit: Discovered the usefulness of a brad nailer to keep parts from sliding around during glue up and clamping. Thankfully, I invested in a decent air compressor not long ago.
    Last edited by Paperweight; 09-19-2021, 08:01 PM.

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  • Paperweight
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    Need to trim the PVC tunnel braces a hair but this looks like it will work. Trying to figure out how to go about adding in a bottom panel. I could thin the bottoms of the PVC tunnel braces to fit in a quarter inch thick panel and glue some half inch ply on either side of the tunnel for some much needed rigidity for adding in some type of mounts to sit on top of the woofer section.

    The planes and a shooting board came in very handy for straightening up my amateur woodworking skills. I discovered a green dry crumbly buffing compound that makes stropping these A2 plane blades plenty sharp.

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  • Paperweight
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    Perfect fit of the PVC tunnel brace. Not bad for a first time using a router. Uh, a couple dozen more to go. This will take a while.

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  • Paperweight
    replied
    Started cutting into the 3/4" baltic birch sheet with my new 4 1/2" battery circular saw. I'm new to this so I may need to trim up a few pieces here and there. The battery lasted more than 8 hours and the new fine finish blade did a very good job. The 5 1/4 plane came in handy for smoothing out and flattening the edges I may have goofed up. That thing is stupid handy, I'm glad I invested in a good one and can sharpen it. 12 panels cut out and there's 6 more to go but I'll save that for my next day off.

    After I finish the rough out, next will be a lot of circle routing to do.

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    Last edited by Paperweight; 09-01-2021, 04:09 PM.

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  • Paperweight
    replied
    Got the parts cut out on my last two days off. So far, the dry fitting hasn't revealed too many problems. The bottom panel I used is 1/4" thick. I was either going to try trimming the bottom of the PVC tunnel braces further and trying to get a 1/2" thick bottom panel to work or laminating two pieces of 1/4" plywood to fit underneath the PVC tunnel.


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