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Finalist speakers, Tower version. Advice needed concerning TL vs Ported

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  • #91
    One thing I was reading on bracing is that the size of the brace can help to some degree. I think I will stick with the original four braces. It took forever to notch out the two pieces to get a snug fit and not split the wood or stab my hand further with a chisel.

    I was tinkering with 13" thickness planar blades to see if I can sharpen them. They really need an angled holder to sharpen them safely. It's not smart to hold them in your hand as you sharpen them. Derp.

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    • #92
      LOL!

      Its always something . . .

      Keep going.

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      • #93
        Last day of vacation and I haven't advanced much further. I did manage to build a second smaller shooting board and replaced the fences and squared them up to the first very large shooting board a little better this go round. Used some of the rock hard maple for the fences.

        The smaller shooting board will make processing the smaller pieces a whole lot easier.

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        • #94
          What is a "shooting board" in this ^ situation?

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          • #95
            Click image for larger version

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            Here's the large one that spans my whole 3 foot wide work table. I really need to reinforce the table for planing by hand. I replaced the oak fences for maple and made sure glue and screws were used so it will not budge. It uses a 3/4" ply base with a 1/2" ply top the plane rides against. Unfortunately, I didn't have a shooting board to make this one so the edge of the top 1/2" sheet of ply was a little off. I could only manage to get 3 out of 4 of the chutes and fences perfectly square. I stupidly made it with a chute on either side and a fence at top and bottom. I used 2 cleats on the bottom so I could push or pull the plane against either fence. Who knows, I may wear one side out. Sorry about the glare, Too much shellac and wax.


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            This is the one I put together over the last few days. Only one chute and I don't have to lean across the table to use it. I was cursed with being left handed so I made the chute on the left side. Now, no one else can use it. It works with 1 foot pieces. It's perfect for the top, bottoms, internal panels and narrow edges of long boards. It was much easier to square up the fence to the single chute. Also, only one cleat on the bottom to keep it against the tables edge.

            Rob Cosman has videos on Youtube for how to make them. Warning, you will start talking like a Canadian if you watch them too many times. That might just be me though. What is that about?

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            • #96
              Interesting & thanks for the lesson - I learned something new today.

              eh?

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              • #97
                If I was buying just one plane to do shooting and various other things, it would be a low angle jack plane. Both Veritas and Lie-Nielsen offer one for about the same price and the body and sides will be square and flat to each other. Very few other makers I would trust to get that right. Veritas has several blade steel options. I hear the PM-V11 is good. It also has the length and weight advantage at 5 pounds 12 ounces vs. the L-N 4.55 pounds. The weight carries it through a long cut. If I was cleaning up rough cut lumber, I would want the lighter L-N. Your shoulders will thank you.

                Either of those two brands are very good and will last you the rest of your life and then some. No motor to wear out and no batteries that won't be available in less than 10 years. Also, it's a good upper body workout.

                Sharpening the blade is another investment unless you have stuff for that already.

                Edit: If you are lucky, you can find a vintage Stanley plane for a decent price. The better ones were pre WW 2 so there will be time spent getting them in working order. Grinding a plane body is not fun. The old school cast iron has a tendancy to crack if dropped on a concrete floor. The newer ductile cast iron is much more durable.

                Some of the cheaper current production planes are very rough around the edges as far as fit and finish and build quality. The soles aren't quite flat and they may or may not be square to the sides. I bought one and put a new blade in it and spent enough time grinding the sole flat and still prefer using my Veratas if I want an accurate cut.

                This all started when I was a kid watching The Woodwright's Shop on PBS which is produced here in NC. Many decades pass and I started looking at Lost Art Press for whatever reason. They have many books on hand tools which appeal to me more than power tools. I decided to purchase a copy of the Stanley number 34 reprint catalog and The Anarchist's Tool Chest by Christopher Schwarz, the former editor of Popular Woodworking. Funny enough, the book is dedicated to Roy Underhill, the host of The Woodwright's shop. I ended up buying several more of his books about planes and hand tools.
                Last edited by Paperweight; 10-13-2021, 07:16 PM.

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                • #98
                  I was rethinking the braces I was working on. As I was trolling the internet for ideas, I found an old post by Bill Fitzmaurice. He mentioned a cross brace shaped like # is more effective than the common window brace with edges and uses less space inside the cabinet. I figured I could make that with 1/2" ply and double it up for sturdiness. I have a lot of that as scrap. The only problem would be getting it reliably glued and pinned in place then clamped while assembling the cabinet.

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