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Duane Brown "Dayton 4" Deluxe version

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  • marvin
    commented on 's reply
    Thanks, Jeff.
    I used a tweed fabric with mod-podge adhesive. You could use spray adhesive which would be less likely to soak through, but you would have to mask the front and rear panels.

  • Jeff F.
    commented on 's reply
    Really sharp looking speaker, did you wrap it in vinyl or is it fabric?

  • duanebro
    replied
    Any driver change will make the crossover not work as intended. This is true for every speaker design, but even more important in a series crossover like mine.

    Supply issues and price increases are making problems for everyone right now.

    Leave a comment:


  • TubeGuy
    commented on 's reply
    Hi Duane- I'm pretty sure the answer is 'No', but there isn't any other tweeter out there (even at a higher price point) that can be swapped in in for this, is there (on the off chance you had found another in your experimenting)? I ordered all the pieces to build your speakers for my office a month ago (when the tweeters were expected beginning of May. PE keeps pushing the timeframe back, and now we are at August 8. Thanks, in advance.

  • duanebro
    replied
    You can try an mtm. Be careful with the efficiency of the tweeter not being high enough. Also know that this is a different design. Nothing in the xo will work.

    Leave a comment:


  • TubeGuy
    commented on 's reply
    Colonel7- Thanks so much for taking the time to find and post that. It seems like running 8 ohms in parallel with CTC spacing as under 5” would be better- right? With the tweeter diameter of 1.28”, seems doable, as you could have the midwoofers almost touching vertically, then when you nestle the tweeter off to one side between them, it only sticks out less than 3/4” past the sides of the mids. This should minimize the mids lobing up to around 3k. Also, gets drivers about as anything I’ve ever seen.
    Disclaimer: I am somewhat new to all this.

  • Colonel7
    commented on 's reply
    Zobellitos https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discus...p115-4-woofers

  • TubeGuy
    replied
    This is really great. Has anyone tried using the 8ohm version of these woofers, and doing a MTM with the same tweeter (or the 4ohm version)?

    Leave a comment:


  • mga2009
    replied
    Originally posted by duanebro View Post

    Hi, funny that I am subscribed but have not been getting any notifications on this. I just happened to look today and found this post.

    The tweeter is about 1.75" from the top to the center of the driver. The woofer is as close to the tweeter as I could get it without touching.

    Small changes will not effect the sound enough to make an audible difference.
    Duane, thanks for your reply and info!

    Which is de XO point for this design?

    Cheers

    Leave a comment:


  • duanebro
    replied
    Originally posted by mga2009 View Post

    Thanks! Yes, I noticed they are mounted horizontally centered, but IDK the distance between woofer and tweeter (I assume the less the better as IDK the XO point) and the distance from the top and bottom.

    Maybe duanebro can chime in !
    Hi, funny that I am subscribed but have not been getting any notifications on this. I just happened to look today and found this post.

    The tweeter is about 1.75" from the top to the center of the driver. The woofer is as close to the tweeter as I could get it without touching.

    Small changes will not effect the sound enough to make an audible difference.

    Leave a comment:


  • mga2009
    replied
    Originally posted by marvin View Post

    The woofer appears to be nearly centered on the baffle and the tweeter very close to that. I am not an expert, but if you are not using a corner port like Duane did, then you can adjust the drivers downward if you prefer with little impact on the sound quality.
    Thanks! Yes, I noticed they are mounted horizontally centered, but IDK the distance between woofer and tweeter (I assume the less the better as IDK the XO point) and the distance from the top and bottom.

    Maybe duanebro can chime in !

    Leave a comment:


  • marvin
    replied
    Originally posted by mga2009 View Post

    Yep.

    "The Enclosure

    The enclosure is 8” tall, 6”wide, and 8.5” deep. Made out of ½” plywood or MDF. I built a triangle port that caused some minor issues. Instead I recommend a 1.125”diameter port tube 6.5” long installed on the back behind the tweeter."

    But there is no reference on the woofer and tweeter location.
    The woofer appears to be nearly centered on the baffle and the tweeter very close to that. I am not an expert, but if you are not using a corner port like Duane did, then you can adjust the drivers downward if you prefer with little impact on the sound quality.

    Leave a comment:


  • mga2009
    replied
    Originally posted by marvin View Post
    Duane's write up offers enclosure dims in the text.
    https://duanebrowndesigns.blogspot.c...akers.html?m=1

    Hope this helps.

    Marv
    Yep.

    "The Enclosure

    The enclosure is 8” tall, 6”wide, and 8.5” deep. Made out of ½” plywood or MDF. I built a triangle port that caused some minor issues. Instead I recommend a 1.125”diameter port tube 6.5” long installed on the back behind the tweeter."

    But there is no reference on the woofer and tweeter location.

    Leave a comment:


  • marvin
    replied
    Duane's write up offers enclosure dims in the text.
    https://duanebrowndesigns.blogspot.c...akers.html?m=1

    Hope this helps.

    Marv

    Leave a comment:


  • mga2009
    replied
    Hi, sorry to hijack the thread but...

    Does anyone have the exact tweeter location for the original Duane Brown Dayton 4 design? No problem for the deluxe version, but I do need smaller footprint.

    Also, does anyone have some measurements for this speaker? which is the XO point? what about spinorama data?

    Thanks!

    Leave a comment:

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