Thanks, Jeff.
I used a tweed fabric with mod-podge adhesive. You could use spray adhesive which would be less likely to soak through, but you would have to mask the front and rear panels.
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Duane Brown "Dayton 4" Deluxe version
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Any driver change will make the crossover not work as intended. This is true for every speaker design, but even more important in a series crossover like mine.
Supply issues and price increases are making problems for everyone right now.
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Hi Duane- I'm pretty sure the answer is 'No', but there isn't any other tweeter out there (even at a higher price point) that can be swapped in in for this, is there (on the off chance you had found another in your experimenting)? I ordered all the pieces to build your speakers for my office a month ago (when the tweeters were expected beginning of May. PE keeps pushing the timeframe back, and now we are at August 8. Thanks, in advance.
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You can try an mtm. Be careful with the efficiency of the tweeter not being high enough. Also know that this is a different design. Nothing in the xo will work.
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Colonel7- Thanks so much for taking the time to find and post that. It seems like running 8 ohms in parallel with CTC spacing as under 5†would be better- right? With the tweeter diameter of 1.28â€, seems doable, as you could have the midwoofers almost touching vertically, then when you nestle the tweeter off to one side between them, it only sticks out less than 3/4†past the sides of the mids. This should minimize the mids lobing up to around 3k. Also, gets drivers about as anything I’ve ever seen.
Disclaimer: I am somewhat new to all this.
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This is really great. Has anyone tried using the 8ohm version of these woofers, and doing a MTM with the same tweeter (or the 4ohm version)?
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Originally posted by duanebro View Post
Hi, funny that I am subscribed but have not been getting any notifications on this. I just happened to look today and found this post.
The tweeter is about 1.75" from the top to the center of the driver. The woofer is as close to the tweeter as I could get it without touching.
Small changes will not effect the sound enough to make an audible difference.
Which is de XO point for this design?
Cheers
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The tweeter is about 1.75" from the top to the center of the driver. The woofer is as close to the tweeter as I could get it without touching.
Small changes will not effect the sound enough to make an audible difference.
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Originally posted by marvin View Post
The woofer appears to be nearly centered on the baffle and the tweeter very close to that. I am not an expert, but if you are not using a corner port like Duane did, then you can adjust the drivers downward if you prefer with little impact on the sound quality.
Maybe duanebro can chime in !
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Originally posted by mga2009 View Post
Yep.
"The Enclosure
The enclosure is 8†tall, 6â€wide, and 8.5†deep. Made out of ½†plywood or MDF. I built a triangle port that caused some minor issues. Instead I recommend a 1.125â€diameter port tube 6.5†long installed on the back behind the tweeter."
But there is no reference on the woofer and tweeter location.
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Originally posted by marvin View Post
"The Enclosure
The enclosure is 8†tall, 6â€wide, and 8.5†deep. Made out of ½†plywood or MDF. I built a triangle port that caused some minor issues. Instead I recommend a 1.125â€diameter port tube 6.5†long installed on the back behind the tweeter."
But there is no reference on the woofer and tweeter location.
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Hi, sorry to hijack the thread but...
Does anyone have the exact tweeter location for the original Duane Brown Dayton 4 design? No problem for the deluxe version, but I do need smaller footprint.
Also, does anyone have some measurements for this speaker? which is the XO point? what about spinorama data?
Thanks!
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