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Box construction with a brad nailer
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I've done several cabs with PSA veneer over buttjointed particle board and mdf. I took care to ensure the surfaces were all flat. I have not experienced any ghosting of the joints. Just careful sanding with a DA sander.
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I'll report back after I've used the bits, I just ordered a set yesterday. And it will be warmer weather before I even consider it. But I think it solves several problems. It may cost some time, but so do other procedures and especially mistakes. I'm sure it takes longer than butt joints, but if I don't have to deal with end grain showing or telegraphing through veneer, it may save time there. So we'll see.
Bill, I think it takes some audacity to tell me how I'm going to behave in the future, since we've never even met!
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I never worry about veneer causing warp, because my cabs are braced well enough that they can't even vibrate, let alone warp. I can see the warning about warping being useful with furniture, but not speakers.
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Originally posted by billfitzmaurice View PostVeneering one side of MDF will have zero effect on stability.
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Veneering one side of MDF will have zero effect on stability.
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Originally posted by djg View PostNo. I've done 3 pairs of speakers in the same fake miter joint style.
Sapele Sopranos - Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum
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No. I've done 3 pairs of speakers in the same fake miter joint style.
Sapele Sopranos - Techtalk Speaker Building, Audio, Video Discussion Forum
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My only issue using brads with MDF joints near the corners is that I am inconsistent with my brad placement. If I end up too close to the edge, it may not shoot out the side, but I have definitely encountered both MDF and plywood bulging out where the brad has displaced wood fibers upon entry. It's subtle most of the time... but highly annoying and not something I want to spend time trying to sand flat again before moving on. You'd HAVE to sand it flat too... I wouldn't want to use a flush trim bit with the wavy surface... that'll just give a wavy edge that STILL needs to be sanded.
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You'll try them, but eventually will realize that it's taking you three times as long to do the job as with simple butt joints. More complicated methods are only called for with furniture that's not braced to the extent that speakers are, which relieves stress on individual joints.
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Originally posted by skatz View Post
If you are using all 3/4 or 1/2 material there is no need to change heights/bits, so it still looks fairly easy to me. I have some gift cards burning a hole in my pocket, so I may spring for this and a set up block. But my shop is unheated so I won't be using them for a while! Did you look at the video?
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Originally posted by stephenmarklay View Post
I like this and when I get a router table, I am all over it
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Originally posted by dwigle View Post
Even though they provide a setup block, changing bits and heights between cutting the two mating surfaces adds a lot of complexity and room for error.
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