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Carmody's Classix II help

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  • Geoff Millar
    replied
    Originally posted by Drummer View Post
    Dude!!! I love those! Rock and roll is rough and raw, and Hendrix personified it. I wouldn't redo them at all. They're a timeline of your journey with speakers. I had ideas of headshot photos as a wall of greats on drum shells, with each shell representing eras...ie. swing, straight ahead, bebop, fusion, rock, progressive, etc. All of my influences and idols. Your speakers are killer as they are. Thanks a bunch for sharing! Glenn.
    Thanks for the kind words, just as well you can't see them in the flesh! I think I put too many pics on the cabinets, but.

    The photo on the top left of the front speaker is from his LA Forum show in April 1970, probably one of the three best shows he played that year. There's an audience recording available, low fi but fantastic playing.

    I won't be doing this with the Classix 2.5s - when I get around to building them - as the cabinets are much larger and will need a much higher level of finish.

    I read somewhere that Stuart Copeland from The Police had a photo of Sting put on his snare drum top so he could wallop him, a sort of drummer's voodoo doll.

    Geoff

    Click image for larger version  Name:	Classix II JH3.JPG Views:	0 Size:	639.1 KB ID:	1434050

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  • Drummer
    replied
    Dude!!! I love those! Rock and roll is rough and raw, and Hendrix personified it. I wouldn't redo them at all. They're a timeline of your journey with speakers. I had ideas of headshot photos as a wall of greats on drum shells, with each shell representing eras...ie. swing, straight ahead, bebop, fusion, rock, progressive, etc. All of my influences and idols. Your speakers are killer as they are. Thanks a bunch for sharing! Glenn.

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  • Geoff Millar
    replied
    Originally posted by Drummer View Post

    Geoff, would you post a pic of them? I would love to see what you did with the Hendrix finish. I had contemplated decoupage on one of my drumkits. Glenn.
    But they look awful - my first attempt at building and finishing cabinets and my first attempt at decoupage! I didn't have a router so just cut the speaker holes with a jigsaw and Masonite. The grilles use grey material to provide some relief from the black.

    I'd love to remake them now that I have a slightly higher skill level but would have to find more photos. I made the backs removable for repairs so the join is too visible. My only excuse is that they're used in our garage so WAF is less critical.

    The pics were from guitar magazines, Mojo, etc. Some turned out to be too thick for purpose, unfortunately. I used "Mod Podge" as a glue and sealer.

    Geoff
    Click image for larger version  Name:	Classix II JH1.JPG Views:	0 Size:	806.5 KB ID:	1434046

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  • Drummer
    replied
    Originally posted by Geoff Millar View Post

    Yes.

    Of course, the crossover is wired the same. I 'cheated' and put my crossover on two boards, it was my first attempt at soldering a crossover. One board each for the tweeter and woofer.

    Looks terrible, sounds fine.

    I used speaker grilles and Jimi Hendrix decoupage to hide my alleged woodworking skills and the DC160s drivers, which aren't very snappy-looking.

    Geoff
    Geoff, would you post a pic of them? I would love to see what you did with the Hendrix finish. I had contemplated decoupage on one of my drumkits. Glenn.

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  • LameNameDave
    commented on 's reply
    Thanks Chris!
    I was pretty sure I was alright, but I've learned to never trust my own judgement!

  • Chris Roemer
    replied
    As long as the cap and resistor are wired together (in series w/ea. other), it doesn't matter which end (cap or resist.) goes to ground.
    (It also doesn't matter if you've got them (actually looks like a "Zobel") at the end of the filter (next to the driver), OR if you've got C3 (10uF) next to the driver. Electrically, both the cap and Zobel can be thought of as wired in parallel w/the woofer's terms. ("across" it)).

    What DOES matter is that neither one of those can go ahead of (to the left of, or on the amp side of) the coil (L3). That would be bad.

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  • LameNameDave
    commented on 's reply
    Thanks for the response, Geoff.
    The way I have them wired up is straight from the schematic on Paul's website.
    Haven't soldered them yet, but...
    After cruising the internet a bit, I've seen them wired both ways.
    Then I said to myself, "Better do it the way the designer says to do it."
    And then I started second-guessing my judgement...
    Run it through a sim... Why the hell didn't I think about that?!

  • Geoff Millar
    replied
    Originally posted by LameNameDave View Post
    Hey guys - yup another stinkin' newbie here.
    I bet there are a billion threads about Classix II crossovers on here, but after spending fifteen minutes looking around on here, I hope nobody minds if I just tack my question on to this one.
    Here we go...
    The schematic shows the 100 uF Cap wired to the 10 ohm resistor, then the resistor wired to ground.
    I see that the many people have done this in the reverse order - resistor, Cap, then Cap grounded.
    Does the order matter?
    No idea about the real world, but connecting the components like that in Xsim changes the Frequency Response a bit; however, that may not reflect what actually happens. I don't know anything about electronics, but.

    Why not just wire it up as shown?

    They're great speakers, we're very happy with them even with my rough woodworking and finishing skills! Don't forget that they need to be placed on stands for best results.

    Geoff

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  • LameNameDave
    replied
    Hey guys - yup another stinkin' newbie here.
    I bet there are a billion threads about Classix II crossovers on here, but after spending fifteen minutes looking around on here, I hope nobody minds if I just tack my question on to this one.
    Here we go...
    The schematic shows the 100 uF Cap wired to the 10 ohm resistor, then the resistor wired to ground.
    I see that the many people have done this in the reverse order - resistor, Cap, then Cap grounded.
    Does the order matter?

    Leave a comment:


  • kirk78h
    replied
    If the purpose is just to seal the cut edges (or roundovers) of MDF, I honestly don't think any body filler is needed. When MDF is cut, the fibers on that edge are compressed. I go over these edges with a damp rag or sponge to raise these fibers. I then let it dry and lightly sand with 220 paper. The standby method to seal these edges is a 1:1 mixture of water and carpenters glue. The sealing agent in this mix is PVA. I stopped doing this years ago because there are a lot of primers available with PVA used to seal new drywall. The best I've found is made by PPG; but there are several good ones; and they are all cheap. I let this dry thoroughly, then scuff off any nibs or brush marks with a red scotch pad. I've been very happy with the results, YMMV.

    If the purpose is to hide seams, the "trench" method with body filler sounds like the way to go. I usually finish with a textured paint, which hides a multitude of sins.

    By the way, if you end up buying a better filler, don't throw the Bondo away. You can always mix it with fiberglass resin to make "Rondo". This combination is brushable and somewhat self-leveling; but really, really hard to sand.

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  • Dukk
    replied
    I have not used Rage Extreme but to add to what others have said, Rage Gold is monumentally better than Bondo branded product. It is hard to believe just how much until you actually use some Rage after using Bondo. It is stunning.

    Not helping things is, if you are buying Bondo (or any product like it) from a WalMart or other big chain, you have no idea how old it is and that absolutely affects how well it works. Anything from a specialty supplier will be much more fresh.

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  • a4eaudio
    replied
    Originally posted by davidB View Post
    You can adjust the amount of hardener for your conditions and needs. I have used it in the snow and at 122 degrees.

    It's like cooking, it takes some time with it to understand how to adjust.
    Try different amounts on spoonfuls of bondo. Use extra plastic lids, you can flex them and pop it off when cured.
    While true, to Kirk78h and f_crunk's point, Bondo is more difficult to work with than other auto-body fillers. In my earlier post I mentioned that Bondo is much cheaper, but after using quite a bit this last weekend I will be using something different after this gallon is gone.

    A gallon of Bondo at Walmart or Menards is about $15 and $30 at my local auto-parts supplier.
    Rage Gold is $60 online and $92 at my local auto-parts supplier.
    3M Platinum Plus is about $55 online and $80 locally.
    I see that Rage Extreme is much thinner than Rage Gold, so I think I may try that for MDF seams.

    If you need to save money (but will put in quite a bit more labor in sanding) Bondo is fine. But if you are willing to spend more money, you can save quite a bit of time and sweat using something better than Bondo brand body filler.
    Last edited by a4eaudio; 01-13-2020, 02:27 AM. Reason: Edit: the last one should be Rage Xtreme (not extreme)

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  • davidB
    replied
    You can adjust the amount of hardener for your conditions and needs. I have used it in the snow and at 122 degrees.

    It's like cooking, it takes some time with it to understand how to adjust.
    Try different amounts on spoonfuls of bondo. Use extra plastic lids, you can flex them and pop it off when cured.

    A gallon can skin a whole car, you've got plenty.

    It's also stickier with less hardener.

    Leave a comment:


  • f_crunk
    replied
    Alright guys. Just a weekend update.

    I applied the Bondo yesterday but I'm going to have to agree with kirk78h in that I really hated using it. It dries too quickly and in concert with its drying time I had a difficult time applying it in a thin coat that would also cover the MDF seams into a flush layer with the sutface. It seemed to chip off as well.

    SO, I ended up sanding most of the bondo off and am back to square one again. I'm going to try the Wood Glue and Water method. I'm going to cover most of the cabinet in one or a few layers of thinned wood glue and see if I can sand that off smooth. Then I'll apply a few coats of primer and a few coats of paint and that should do it.

    The part I like about the wood glue method is that I can apply it with a brush and that it has a longer drying window.

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  • Carbon13
    replied
    Bondo definitely takes some practice but it does a fine job on speaker cabs once you get the hang of it. Don't sweat the initial application too much, just get those seams covered best you can and quick as you can. Use good quality low grit sandpaper like 3M 80grit to start and go from there.

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