crossover filter

[SentinelAeon]

Hello, I am making a simple speaker. So far i used 2x 3" speakers but the speaker seems to be lacking some very highs. So i thought about mixing in a tweeter. Since i only have 2 outputs (left and right) i was thinking about puting one 3" speaker on left channel and one 3" speaker + tweeter on right channel. They would be in parallel and i would add a capacitor to tweeter to protect it. I would also add a 2 ohm resistor to 3" speaker to keep impedance up since i got 2 speakers in parallel. I uploaded a schematic. I would like you to tell me if i did things right and if this is going to work as intended. I am not audophile so as long as it works and the tweeter gives me some extra highs, i will be happy with it.

[Serpentus]

The tweeter will have a high impedance at lower frequencies - the capacitor you installed increases impedance at freqs under 4000 hz - that's how it filters them out. If anything I run a resistor in series with the tweeter as well as keeping the capacitor in the tweeter.

[Chris Roemer]

specific drivers?

[SentinelAeon]

All the data i have is on the pic. In the meanwhile i decided that instead of what u see here, i will use mid woofer on left and full range on right channel and not use any crossovers, since i am not nitpicking at audio quality, i tested it and it sounds well enough for me. I would still like to know if that pic is ok.
Hmm, why would you put resistor in series with tweeter ? Wouldnt that make the tweeter to quiet, trying to compete with 2 mid woofers ?

[Kornbread]

Why not add another tweeter and have a matching pair of speakers?

[SentinelAeon]

Well the main reason is that i am building speakers on abudge and trying to save every buck i can. And second is that since those speakers are almost full range (i am guessing they go as high as 15000Hz) i only need to cover small amount of range and 1 tweeter is probably more than enough loud.

[Chris Roemer]

Well (your idea is not a "good" one), I'd definitely put that resistor on the tweeter (along w/the cap, as has already been said). Tweeters are almost always quite a bit louder than non-tweeters, anyway. And putting a resistor on the 3"er (when you could just turn down that channel, if you want) is silly. Anyway you look at it, you're going to end up w/a fairly funky'd up sound.

What you SHOULD be doing (besides taking some advice) is to be using woofers w/a natural rolloff so that you CAN just use a tweeter & (npe) cap on EACH channel's $5 tweeter. Live and learn, I guess. Happy Easter everyone!

[SentinelAeon]

I agree that tweeter on both channels would make it easier. Like i said i do those speakers for friends and they want a really cheap speaker. If i add more speakers, i will basicaly be losing money considering i sell them almost for nothing.

I have another question. A 5L box speaker, consisting of Dayton TCP115 4 ohm and Visaton FRS 8 M 8 ohm (Dayton on left, visaton on right). I have 2 questions:

1) would it make sense to make a crossover on full range visaton ? If yes, what would be the best frequency ? Looking at the graph (i attached an image) i would say either 3000Hz or 5000Hz ? What would happen if i leave it without crossover ?

2) should i do crossover on dayton also or just leave it to play its full range ? What would happen if i do not crossover it ?

[Kornbread]

If you're wanting something cheap that sounds good with no crossover headache, just build a Pico Neo.

[Chris Roemer]

BOTH your selected drivers have trouble at 10kHz.
So, you're putting two FR drivers into one box (w/NO internal partition?) and feeding one the L stereo channel and the other the right?
That's really messed up.
Are you porting the box? Is it 5L per driver, or 5L total?
Everything you play will sound pretty weird. The Dayton driver COULD make more bass. The FRS8 has highs above 5k where the Dayton is lacking.

Two piconeo (in one box) would sound better - and be simpler. They'd want 4L per side, vented (50Hz), half that closed (but you lose an octave).
(There's really no "right" way to do something wrong ... )

[SentinelAeon]

I would obviously put visaton into its own enclosure and seal it off - protect it from dayton bass and subtract that from the whole volume. Though i am now thinking that it might be possible to replace visaton with tweeter and just set it to play from 2800Hz upwards. I did such enclosure now only a lot smaller and it sounds good to me. Since the full range or tweeter would be sealed, i would only need to calculate enclosure size for the dayton and i would give it 5L enclosure. I know that it would be much better to have dayton and tweeter crossed on each channel, but that puts the price of the speaker to high. I might do it in the future but for a set budget i simply cannot do it without actualy losing money, as it is anyway this speakers are more or less given as a present instead of giving me some money for my time spent working on them.

One question. The program QSpeaker calculated me that for 2.3L enclosure and 65Hz resonant frequency, i can do port of certain diameter and length. My question is. Should i subtract that port volume from the whole enclosure ? Or is it ok if i put that port into a 2.3L box and its all fine ?

Can i get link to pico neo speaker ?

[SentinelAeon]

Oh, and here is the size and port the program calculated for me. Its for my current enclosure where i use 8 ohm version, it will be different for 4 ohm version ofcourse

[Chris Roemer]

You should consider your box volume to be decreased by the port volume, as though the port is a solid cyl. inside your box.
There's a piconeo link right in post #9.
A 1-1/4" id (30mm?) port would probably be a better choice for this 4" woofer than a 1" (25mm) port, if you can fit it in there.

[SentinelAeon]

Well to late now, all sealed up, i will count the port volume the next time. I am quite disapointed by what came from this. Remember, my last speaker wasnt calculated and i used some woofer from the cheapest logitech logitech u can get, added 2 cheap passive radiators and a full range with no enclosure, didnt calculate anything. And if i compare them it comes to this:

1) the calculated one plays very loud at 50Hz, it plays it even more loud than 100Hz, just as the graph shows. BUT. It doesnt have that boom effect that my non calculated speaker has. I cant explain it, its just force that makes you go wow

2) which is amazing because that non calculated speaker barely gives anything under 80Hz from it. Someone on another forum said its prolly the 1 note bass. Well who cares if its a 1 note bass, ur going for that boom that sounds awesome and mighty, not a pretty graph.

I dont know what to take from all this.

[Kornbread]

Second link in sig is a PicoNeo build but you can find the box volume and port size in page one of this link: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...193-a81-my-wt3, It doesn't matter if you use the black or white woofer, they are the same, but the black tends to cost less.