crossover filter

[Chris Roemer]

To expound - IF both drivers are nearly (perfectly) "in-phase" they'll actually "sum" +6dB from roughly 150-4000Hz.
If the drivers are 90* out-of-phase (same as 90* in phase), as in a Butterworth alignment, they'll sum +3dB over that overlapping range.

With NO filters (and 8ohm drivers), you'll end up w/mostly a 4ohm load.
With simple 1st order filters (cap on FR, and series coil on woofer) the load will be more like 8ohms (if these are 8ohm drivers), and the response will be approx. 90dB (IF you start w/90dB drivers) from about 60Hz up to almost 20kHz (+/- 2dB maybe - depending ...).

[SentinelAeon]

I forgot to add, woofer will be on left channel, full range on right. I normaly do crossover at 4K like this ... and it works ok except some strange passes in some stereo songs. The thing is ... to get around this ... i want woofer and full range to play most of the same frequencies to reduce this. Its not optimal and in this cases i rather just mix the signal into mono so both channels play the same thing.

I will have to test it and see. The reason is, this is the first person that asked me to make them a speaker that will actualy listen to classical music. My extra budget speakers with cheap parts play dance music just fine. But classical music is different and this is where i am limited by cheap parts. Dayton audio TCP115-4 and Visaton FRS 8 M are both ultra cheap parts. But as it is i am making the speakers basicaly for free. If i invest in high quality speakers i will actualy be losing money which is not my intent.

[tom_s]

The TCP115 can sound surprisingly good when matched with a budget tweeter and the appropriate crossover. But that crossover will be a little more than just a cap and resistor. I understand money being a major issue, but using completely different drivers on each side goes against the whole concept of stereo reproduction. I would rather have a good sounding mono speaker than a bad sounding stereo pair.