I would cross the tweeter higher. I have no experience with it, but, I'd target 4th order at 1.7k as a starting point. Even that might be too low, depending on how loud you want to play music. Like the woofer, the tweeter has to move, and it has excursion limits.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
The Joudas project
Collapse
X
-
Originally posted by rpb View PostI would cross the tweeter higher. I have no experience with it, but, I'd target 4th order at 1.7k as a starting point. Even that might be too low, depending on how loud you want to play music. Like the woofer, the tweeter has to move, and it has excursion limits.
Pete Schumacher stated that, in the waveguide, the tweeter looked good to 1500hz, maybe 1200hz. I am at about 1300hz acoustic crossover point and about 1700hz electrical. I will play with it and see if I can get it higher.
Comment
-
The second one above looks like an 800Hz xover, please don't do that...
Wolf"Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
"Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
"He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
"We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith
*InDIYana event website*
Photobucket pages:
https://app.photobucket.com/u/wolf_teeth_speaker
My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102
- Likes 1
Comment
-
Originally posted by rpb View PostI would cross the tweeter higher. I have no experience with it, but, I'd target 4th order at 1.7k as a starting point. Even that might be too low, depending on how loud you want to play music. Like the woofer, the tweeter has to move, and it has excursion limits.
Last edited by trevordj; 09-15-2020, 05:30 PM.
Comment
-
The first in #91 looks better to me, in terms of FR, alignment, etc.
Not sure how the tweeter will handle it though. I'd take HD measurements of it in the horn at the level you intend for and see what it does.
Wolf"Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
"Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
"He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
"We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith
*InDIYana event website*
Photobucket pages:
https://app.photobucket.com/u/wolf_teeth_speaker
My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102
Comment
-
Originally posted by Wolf View PostThe first in #91 looks better to me, in terms of FR, alignment, etc.
Not sure how the tweeter will handle it though. I'd take HD measurements of it in the horn at the level you intend for and see what it does.
Wolf
Comment
-
According to that plot, with applied xover as you have it, you should likely be fine.
Wolf"Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
"Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
"He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
"We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith
*InDIYana event website*
Photobucket pages:
https://app.photobucket.com/u/wolf_teeth_speaker
My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102
- Likes 1
Comment
-
Originally posted by trevordj View Post
I can, I haven't done it yet so I am not 100% sure how. Is there are particular target curve I should be shooting for?
This is LR4 at 1.7k. Notice that the shape of the curves match closely, and are smooth. Both drivers should be 6dB down at the xo frequency.
Comment
-
Originally posted by rpb View PostHere's a suggestion... On the tweeter padding. Start with two 6 ohm resistors. One in series, and one in parallel. If more padding is needed, add it before the xo.
Comment
Comment