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A simple (but maybe not easy) bracing question. Help please.

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  • A simple (but maybe not easy) bracing question. Help please.

    Hi Guys,

    I am planning on bracing the 16T X 10W X 14D two way cabinets I've just built with one side to side brace and one baffle to back brace. The cabinets are built of 3/4' Baltic birch and are of 100% mitered construction, including the top and bottom. My question is: Is it better to tie these braces to each other where they cross in roughly the center of the cabinet or keep them seperate from each other? (I know that they should be slightly off center where they butt against the panels). My hunch and one experienced speaker builder says, tie them together, but another very experienced speaker builder I respect says to keep them independent of each other. I wonder if folks who have practical experience can share their views and rationale. I'm still a beginner, this is the biggest cabinet I've built and I'd like it to be the best it can be given that it is using a very basic bracing scheme.

    Best,
    Jay

  • #2
    No practical experience, but my gut feeling says to tie them together with a big blob of RTV, to get some vibration absorbing action.
    Francis

    Comment


    • #3
      Tying them together will make a more rigid structure of the box. Just make sure the braces are securely connected, so they don't vibrate. Construction adhesive is good for unseen joints.

      Comment


      • #4
        A real unknown drip under pressure (X-spurt) but construction adhesive tying the front brace and back brace together can't hurt. If my brain (???) is working, that's close to the size of Paul Carmody's "Hitmakers" (a little bigger), so similar construction seems in order to me. Where'd you find 3/4 BB this year? Decent wood of any kind has been harder to find than toilet paper this year! My 3 cents (inflation) put some scraps on the walls unevenly spaced vertically (?) to help kill unwanted resonances. When it's all glued-up, if it hurts your knuckles to pound on it, you done good.
        Curious....what's going into the box??? MTM or MT or someting(sic) exotic??? I saw some of those $600 each 7" hex honeycomb midwoofers (Morel or alphabet somebody) and an obscene tweeter Beryllium, (?) Emeralds, Rubies, Moonrock?($400++) and I wished I could hear that after my strokes...put a whoop on my right ear high end( and right hand, arm, leg, foot, gut...)
        5 generations of strokes on BOTH sides of the family gonna end wid' me...no mo' lil' Virgil Berry Earp's Highland Scot's all (Wyatt's older brother) or Thompson(Alabama Cherokees)/ Haney's (English to the bone!) The Haney's [Haenjey's] had the first baby conceived in Plymouth Colony and they were Anabaptists , (later Methodists) and were indentured servants until 1824 when Andy Jackson set white slaves free (The Universal Bankruptcy/Landholder Act). The passage on the Mayflower and a share in the Plymouth Colony Pact (land for a farm) cost the equivalent of about $380,000 in 1620. Almost all the "Pilgrims" were in debt for several generations, even with help from their families and their Churches in England.

        Ricky-Pooh

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Whitneyville1 View Post
          5 generations of strokes on BOTH sides of the family gonna end wid' me...no mo' lil' Virgil Berry Earp's Highland Scot's all (Wyatt's older brother) or Thompson(Alabama Cherokees)/ Haney's (English to the bone!) The Haney's [Haenjey's] had the first baby conceived in Plymouth Colony and they were Anabaptists , (later Methodists) and were indentured servants until 1824 when Andy Jackson set white slaves free (The Universal Bankruptcy/Landholder Act). The passage on the Mayflower and a share in the Plymouth Colony Pact (land for a farm) cost the equivalent of about $380,000 in 1620. Almost all the "Pilgrims" were in debt for several generations, even with help from their families and their Churches in England.

          Ricky-Pooh
          www.billfitzmaurice.com
          www.billfitzmaurice.info/forum

          Comment


          • Jake
            Jake commented
            Editing a comment
            Well said, 😂

        • #6
          Ummm...last paragraph wasn't supposed to go onto this forum (I don't know HOW it got here!). It was supposed to go to a cousin in the "Bootheel" of Missouri on leave from the U. S Navy. I wasn't even on this computer (the desktop) or on the same network provider. Win 10 update on 'puters nite before...scrambled stuff maybe??? The two 'puter-thingeys aren't supposed to even "know" each other exist...soooorrrry

          Comment


          • #7
            Stuff happens, man - its OK.

            Comment


            • #8
              I doubt it maters. Typical DIY goes overboard on bracing but does not address far more important aspects like the baffle radius.

              Comment


              • #9
                IIRC Bill Waslo test bracing and found it was better to tie adjacent sides with the opposite sides
                John H

                Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

                Comment


                • #10
                  John,

                  I am challenged in visual-spatial ability. Could you elaborate on, or diagram, the bracing scheme Bill Waslo found best? I can't visualize what it would look like in a real world speaker cabinet. Thanks!

                  Comment


                  • #11
                    Jay, tie the front to back and side to side cross brace together or use a window pane type brace
                    John H

                    Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

                    Comment


                    • #12
                      I don't have many pictures. On this cabinet I have front to back around the woofer perimeter, side to side and top to bottom tied together. On a small cabinet the top to bottom is going to be in the way and not required.
                      John H

                      Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

                      Comment


                      • #13
                        FWIW, on a larger cab for a sub, I found that triangulating to corners from each side-to-side brace made a noticeable improvement in the super-scientific "knock" test.
                        Francis

                        Comment


                        • #14
                          Build I just got together has virtually no bracing except for the slot port at the bottom, runners on the inside to attach the baffle, a 90 degree ply runner in all the rear corners, a flat added at the midpoint of the rear wall, and 3 braces spanning the baffle runners for mounting bolts. This bracing is all on or across the outside walls, and nothing across the middle column. The side walls, top, and above the slot have 4" square tiles as mass and the heavy sonic barrier in between them. This box does not move or resonate and I thought it would being both ply and a mini tower.

                          Wolf
                          "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
                          "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
                          "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
                          "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

                          *InDIYana event website*

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                          • #15
                            I can't visualize what it would look like in a real world speaker cabinet. auto clicker
                            Last edited by kareemhan1997; 09-24-2020, 12:30 AM.

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                            • djg
                              djg commented
                              Editing a comment
                              It's generally very dark inside a real world speaker cabinet. Maybe a little "port light".
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