Tritrix Amplifier Choice?

[Spaker]

Well? What have you the best luck with? Single input stereo is all I require, but am willing to entertain just about anything. If not a specific make and model, what about optimum wattage/ ohm rating? Thoughts? Suggestions? Recommendations? All ears! Spaker Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[fpitas]

Buying or building an amp? It's going to depend on how big your room is, and how loud you expect to listen. And of course, your budget.

This thread may be of interest: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...reo-amp-idears

And this: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...hat-do-you-use

[fpitas]

The Tritrix are rated as 8 ohms, so pretty much any modern amp will work.

[djg]

Not a recommendation, but people seem to like this. 5 yr warranty, 4 ohm capable. Never heard one.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-apa150-150w-power-amplifier--300-812

[tvrgeek]

You could get scientific. Model the speaker and see how much power it takes to reach 110dB ( threshold of pain) and how much it takes to reach Xmax. Not much reason to get one bigger. I was wondering if an upgrade to my old O-Audio plate was in order. But both of my subs will reach 113 dB @ 1M with 200W and X-Max with 240 and 220 respectively, so my old 300W plates are just fine. My 60W AVR is more than my HT mains can take and my 60W MOSFET is well matched to my living mains.

Sometimes much larger AB amps do sound a bit better. Several reasons. One is they may just be better designed, larger power bank etc, the other is if you jump in the number of outputs, the reduced current will let them run in a slightly more linear fashion with less thermal comp needed. On a class D, I guess it matters how the input is made. If analog, i.e. original triangle summer/trigger, then probably no difference, but if they are sampling to generate the PWM signal, bigger may not be better. Still learning about them.

[tvrgeek]

Watch out for amps ( like above) needing a fan. They can be very annoying. When I had a Beringher class D for two subs, it drove me crazy and it was inside a closet. I modified it with a massive heatsink, plenum and a variable speed fan. It was then quiet. My first "real" amplifier was a Sanyo V50. MOSFET and very good sounding, but the Freon gurgling in the heat pipe caused me to sell it. There is only one sound worse coming from a power amp, that is the compression and then silence when they go unstable and blow up. Parasound 2125 is on sale for $600. A very fine amp. Some like the Emotiva ( $230) for a budget amp. It has a fan though. Then the class D fans wil chime in. I have been looking half serious at a March.

[Geoff Millar]

We drive ours with an old Yamaha RX596 receiver, no problem; 80 Watts RMS/ch, the speakers (MTM vented version) run out of puff before the receiver does.

Geoff

[davidroberts]

Well? What have you the best luck with? Single input stereo is all I require, but am willing to entertain just about anything. If not a specific make and model, what about optimum wattage/ ohm rating? Thoughts? Suggestions? Recommendations? All ears! Spaker Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

It really depends on your listening taste and budget. As mentioned there are some very nice class D amps with a built in power supply if you want to roll your own.

EBay is full of deals on amps like NAD & Adcom. Personally I have a few old (+25yr) Kenwood amps that I love. The M1-D and the M-2A.

If you don't have a preamp you are likely going to need a receiver. Look for a used Marant or Demon unit.

[djg]

Decades ago, the local stereo shop (remember those?) had Kenwood M-2 and M-1 demo units on sale. I couldn't afford the M-2, bought the M-1. Regrets.

[djg]

The APA150 I linked has a volume knob, so if as you say, you only have one source, with this amp you would not need a preamp. Power amps typically do not have volume controls.

[Spaker]

The APA150 I linked has a volume knob, so if as you say, you only have one source, with this amp you would not need a preamp. Power amps typically do not have volume controls.

So that might be the ticket. Indeed, a single source- the PC under the television in a small living room. Many types of media end up coming from that PC, as the entire place is networked to a giant NAS library and ready to stream just about anything. Thanks. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[djg]

Well, a convenient volume control (remote) is nice, or the electronics within arm's reach.

[tvrgeek]

Once more, older amps have great circuits, but ELECTROLYTIC CAPS ONLY LAST 7 to 10 Years! So older Adcom, Parasound, Rotel, Rotel, etc need to be re-caped. But a couple hundred for a basic good amp, and maybe 100 worth of caps and you are in business with a $1000 or more amp in todays market.

My favorite: Parasound HCA series, Nakamichi PA5 Stasis, Aragon, and Adcom. Hafler and Rotel need a few circuit tweaks to come up to excellent from just very good.

I had for a day, the SMSI Sanskrit DAC. It had a remote volume control. Mine was either defective or it is junk, I bet the former, but a nifty no-preamp way to go if everything is coming via USB or Toslink. Other DACs have volume controls too. I use a touch screen PC now as my music server. I still have analog sources so still run my preamp. I can see a way in the future to eliminate it if I get some source selection application running correctly. Then PC to DAC ( with volume) to my analogue crossovers and amps.

[Wolf]

My take- get a solid amplifier with 200-250W RMS so that the crests or transient-peaks in the music do not clip the amplifier. Tests have been done. If you have about an 84dB/2.83V speaker, then 200-250W is the range you should have to keep both your speakers and amplifiers happy when listening at a moderate volume. As your sensitivity goes up on the speaker, the fewer watts are required. 95dB speakers only require 17W to make the amplifiers happy in a normal living room at a moderate level.

I still stand by my Crown XLS1500 and XLS2000. I'm still very happy with my choice.
Wolf

[tvrgeek]

I am all for not clipping the amplifier, but there is a point where enough is enough. An advantage of a much larger amp ( AB here, don't understand D well enough yet) is more output devices and frequently the higher price, means fewer short cuts in the architecture so lower distortion. But enough can be enough. I just modeled my Seas 7 inch mains. I run a 60W MOSFET ( my own) . Modeling it, 15W will drive my mains to 100 dB which is very loud. ( I would pick 110 peak if I was insane.) So a 6 dB overhead says my 60W amp is about right. Another 3 dB (120W) would not hurt if it had higher quality. I have no need for 250. But I would not want to want to downsize to a 40W integrated unless I lived in an apartment and 90 dB would be an obnoxious high peak. This is with a 4th order 60 Hz crossover. I have a 300W on the sub.

Message is to look seriously at your requirements not your bragging rights.

[fpitas]

You want at least 20dB overhead. Better recordings are not compressed, and some really do have >20dB peak/average.

https://www.prosoundweb.com/understanding-the-nuances-of-crest-factor/

[tvrgeek]

Ans some people have severally damaged hearing. Only thing they heard was the marketing guy trying to up-sell you. 20dB above pain threshold is considered to cause instant permanent damage.

[Wolf]

Rickie Lee Jones has a recording or 2 that have +30dB dynamic range....

Yeah- +6dB is not enough.
Wolf

[tvrgeek]

30dB dynamic range is AM radio. FM is 50 dB. 16 bit CD is 96 I think you are saying 30 higher than average maybe? When I say 6 dB, I mean 6 dB higher than any peak I could ever tolerate. Not 6 dB over typical average. I still have my hearing, or at least most of it. Maybe uncommon for my generation, but I never went to Who concerts stoned and do not use ear-buds.