Looking for Advice on Next Project - 2-way with a Non-standard Tweeter

[Arctos]

Thanks Wolf,
I did talk to a tech person at Parts Express that assured me that the volume on the HTA would control the volume on the plate amp, but he may be wrong as well. I'm getting an optical cable tomorrow and will try a different source to see if it sorts itself out.

I like the idea of using the power strip for on/off. Then I won't have to dial the volume in each time.

I'll keep trying with the photos. I get an error message about my photos being too big. Not the file size, the actual physical dimensions. I'm not super technical with the computer, but will see if I can modify the files to work.

[Arctos]

Photo attempt:

[Arctos]

Got it to work! Here's some more (the last shot shows the HTA and the single driver speakers I built a long time ago that the Triumph is connected to) :

[Arctos]

More:

[djg]

Last pic is like a shrine. Seriously, nice work. Are you happy?

[Arctos]

Thank you! And yes, I'm happy, even with the mistakes I made. Learning is always a good thing. I should add one more project to the photo to cover all of my speaker builds, but the last one is a guitar speaker cabinet with a 12" Eminence driver and I count that one separately.

[Steve Lee]

Very,very nice work!

[Arctos]

Thanks!

[johnnyrichards]

Speaking of different tweeters to try... Just saw these buyout Planars up on PE for $21ea.
https://www.parts-express.com/Foster...-8-Ohm-279-468. Anyone know anything about them? Sound quality?

Those could be considered a "super tweeter" since they probably need to be crossed 5 or 6K. IMNSHO it should be avoided for anything but a very small form factor 3-way matched to a 2" midrange that can play to 6K without beaming. $21 for a driver that will barely play any musical content and requires custom mounting is just not a value. For the same money, you can buy any number of domes that will beat it up in every category. For more money, you can buy several different planar tweeters that will cross lower.

The new GRS PT2522-4 will outperform that Foster for $33. I see the Foster is currently $15 on sale, but even at that low price it doesn't offer any compelling reason to use it.

[Arctos]

Well, I'm a bit disappointed as it seems the HTA volume will not control the relative volume on the sub amp. I don't understand this because how can the volume on my Mac control it via bluetooth signal, but the HTA volume won't? I hooked up a blueray player to use as a CD player via an optical cable and using that source the volume is not affected by the HTA. Gonna call tech support at PE again on Monday to see what they say. If it truly won't, then the amp is going back. Bummed cause I really like it. Maybe the older model (HTA20?) will have this capability.

On the positive side, initial listening tests sound pretty good!

[oldloder]

Certainly not what you would prefer but if the L and R channels aren't high passed on the HTA20 you could try using the speaker level inputs on the SA25 and that would certainly control the sub volume respectively. If nothing else it might show a defect in the HTA20 that PE would replace it for.

[Arctos]

Good thought and I'm sure that would work, but the speaker level inputs/outputs on the plate amp are bare wire only and I just don't like running that way. I like the cleanness of banana plugs. Just personal preference.

[djg]

My only volume control on my PC 2.1 system is the computer volume control, except that I can initially set the sub volume via the DSP software or the sub amp controls. I think using your Mac volume is fine, it's right there at your fingertips.

Oh, and so you've built a nice little subwoofer, but per the thread title, no new TMs with non-standard tweeters yet?

[Arctos]

If I was only going to use Bluetooth as a source I'd do that, but I also like to play CD's through it as well.

And yes, it seeme I've departed greatly from the initial purpose of this thread! I was really struggling with my choice of speaker design for the next pair of 2-ways (lot's of good recommendations from the folks here). So, I built the micro-sub and deferred the original project. I've decided to build another guitar speaker next with a 10" driver, but those are much simpler than audio speakers so that shouldn't take very long once I start cutting wood.

So maybe by summer I'll re-engage my search for a design. i've also considered a set of Bagby-designed woofer modules to go with the Mandolin's I finished last year. Not sure I want or really need them based on the amount of low frequency I get out of the Mandolins by themselves.

[Arctos]

Well, latest from the tech folks at PE is that the amp is not working correctly and they will swap it out. i really hope that this is true and the new one will adjust the volume of the sub. I can't imagine that an amp with a sub out would not be designed to do that.

[Arctos]

Got confirmation from PE this morning that the "sub out" on the HTA50BT is actually a line out, so will not be affected by the volume control. Very helpful tech guy. Allowed me to return that amp and I ended up buying the HTA20BT instead. Less power and an older model, but the sub out should work as expected and I don't really need much power to push the 3" Tang Band drivers.

[djg]

Just curious, did PE tech dept. follow up with you RE: sub out or did you call them back. My experiences with PE have been good.

[Arctos]

They actually followed up with me. Gave me a call back a few days after our first conversation and let me know of the issue. They also were very good about the refund and getting the new amp out to me quickly. Very good service.

[Arctos]

Got the new amp (HTA20BT) and have it installed in the system. So far so good, and the sub out is actually a sub out. Volume issue resolved. Certainly less power than the previous but for this system it's plenty. Now time for some listening.