2 pronged question...2inch peerless and ideas on how to finish 3d print.

[3rutu5]

Ok guys I've had these parts and ideas for 12-24 months now so me talking crap ain't nothing new, especially with hair brained ideas. I bought two of these off the grey market and they were replacement drivers for the Google home device they are apparently peerless and almost impossible to find information on in the 4ohm series. I've sent an email off to peerless and not 100% certain if they will have a spec sheet (assuming research is correct and it is an actual peerless driver). Big question is apart from Google or having a testing setup is there any other avenues I could go down to get some TS parameters?

Other question is finishing, apart from jumping the gun and making it up on the fly, any suggestions to how the top 2/3rds should look? I put one of my boozetooth options next to it for a.reference, but thinking something similar in height ie 170-190mm tall. Also actual 500ml craft beer included for reference as well

[Chris Roemer]

If no one "near" you has a DATS, why not try the "LIMP" module from the (free) ARTA suite?
While EYE have never used that (along w/a homemade "jig"), many here have.

[tomzarbo]

I assume you tried the QR code and it didn't yield any useful info?
Is there a question/answer section where you purchased from that you could ask if someone would measure it for you?
It looks like a stout little driver anyway.

I have a few Peerless drivers that look similar, but with square frames. Much older though.

TomZ

[tomzarbo]

Yours sure look tobe Peerless from the frame/magnet assembly.

[3rutu5]

Tom, I think these were all salvaged or oversupply from the Google home and had a frame with a slight notch which I took off with some coarse sandpaper. The page has since gone as I don't think they are available any more
I did see that driver as discontinued on the peerless product page which looks similar by eye, but to be honest they all look similar at this 2inch size

[3rutu5]

If no one "near" you has a DATS, why not try the "LIMP" module from the (free) ARTA suite?
While EYE have never used that (along w/a homemade "jig"), many here have.

Interesting suggestion Chris, might look into it, either that or find one of those fancy mics.

I honestly don't know of anyone in my immediate community who actually tinkers with speakers (in australia/bris)

[3rutu5]

i got a response from Peerless, basically telling me to contact an Australian distributor of their product, which i guess is corporate for get lost. Unless i'm missing something if a distributor doesnt show it in their stocklist and the manufactorer doesnt show it in their support section, i'm feeling doubtful that ill get my spec sheet. Maybe it is an old series of driver and discontinued (which unlikely as i did see Toms one on there), or dont list mass produced items made specifically for a device......Or its a dodgy clone/knockoff and it isnt actually called that....

I know they sound alright in a small enclosure, just wish i had the gear to work it out properly so i could model it up correctly.

now just need to figure out what to do to finish the design in the way of a print, internals may be already sorted, just working out the kinks with the power/portability

[neildavis]

I don't know how Peerless assigns their part numbers, but my guess is that the last digit before the dash is likely a finish or mounting or other option that doesn't have an impact on the TS parameters. So the TS parameters are probably very similar to the PLS-50N25AL04-04 (follow link to datasheet).

[JRT]

Ok guys I've had these parts and ideas for 12-24 months now ... I've sent an email off to peerless and not 100% certain if they will have a spec sheet (assuming research is correct and it is an actual peerless driver). Big question is apart from Google or having a testing setup is there any other avenues I could go down to get some TS parameters?

Three,
Why "apart from" testing?
Just do the testing.

[neildavis]

For these speakers in a small enclosure, the TS parameters really shouldn't matter. You need to do what the "big boys" do: use DSP to compensate for the lack of "natural" bass. You can implement a Linkwitz transform, or just use bass boost, or use a bass enhancement algorithm that provides the effect of extra bass without excessive cone movement. You can do the DSP/control on a board that is about 3" by 1.5" by 1"--see the ESP-DSP board at this link: 6a. Gen 2 stereo 3-way DSP Board – Audiodevelopers Reborn. I've been busy working on my house and haven't been doing fun stuff lately, but I'll release the schematics and code in the next month or so. You can control all of the bass enhancement functions via an Android phone app. I'd be happy to send you a board once I make some more .

[3rutu5]

I finally got.a response from peerless, basically got told no as it is a custom driver and they don't give out that data to the public.

I like the idea of a DSP board, just need the space. My tiny bit/amp board has a customizable eq but you need to go via.the csr module and they 8 points are too small for me to solder to...I've heard of some folks using a usb setup with pogo pins but have no idea what that actually is. I got a.few of.rhese boards.aftet a.guy in Europe was making variants of a bose SoundLink mini clone and he used that to get more out of the compact setup, sounded pretty good via YouTube but it fuelled a 2yr obsession almost to make smaller setups that sound like a bose..... impossible task for me

[3rutu5]

Three,
Why "apart from" testing?
Just do the testing.

Sorry, I didn't want to test as I don't have the equipment or current skillset or knowledge. I can design enclosures, 3d print and build things, but some of this stuff just makes me feel stupid

[JRT]

Sorry, I didn't want to test as I don't have the equipment or current skillset or knowledge. I can design enclosures, 3d print and build things, but some of this stuff just makes me feel stupid

Sticky threads near the top of the forum:

Sticky:Easy ZMA and T/S Parameters Using The LIMP Module in ARTA - An Illustrated Guide by hongrn

Sticky:Measured T/S Parameter Thread Sticky by mattp


If you can build the most simple of loudspeakers, then you can build this test jig.












.

[3rutu5]

For these speakers in a small enclosure, the TS parameters really shouldn't matter. You need to do what the "big boys" do: use DSP to compensate for the lack of "natural" bass. You can implement a Linkwitz transform, or just use bass boost, or use a bass enhancement algorithm that provides the effect of extra bass without excessive cone movement. You can do the DSP/control on a board that is about 3" by 1.5" by 1"--see the ESP-DSP board at this link: 6a. Gen 2 stereo 3-way DSP Board – Audiodevelopers Reborn. I've been busy working on my house and haven't been doing fun stuff lately, but I'll release the schematics and code in the next month or so. You can control all of the bass enhancement functions via an Android phone app. I'd be happy to send you a board once I make some more .

Had a complete mental blank as well, i have a wondom 2x50w BT AMP which has DSP, so if i read what you are saying you could sacrifice space and modify the EQ to compensate? wondering if that would make the bass sound weird or different to that of a properly sized enclosure? What was your experience in that regards?

[neildavis]

If you are referring to the JAB-3+ board, you could program it's ADAU1701 to provide several bass enhancement functions, any of which could help overcome the limitations of the small volume. The Linkwitz Transform or conventional bass boost will provide more low frequency output, but they don't help much if you are constrained by the cone excursion limits. However, the ADI Superbass algorithm generates harmonics that give the impression of deeper bass without requiring more cone excursion. Superbass can sound "fake" and distorted if turned up too far, but at moderate levels it can be fairly effective without sounding fake.

Programming the ADAU1701 would require either putting the DSP code into the JAB-3+ EEPROM with a SigmaStudio programmer, or else you could add a CPU board to control the DSP. If you use the CPU board, you could control all of the parameters (such as the intensity or frequency of the Superbass) from a cell phone app. The CPU board is that white area in the picture with the OLED display--it doesn't take up much space at all, and it has built-in Bluetooth to receive commands from the cell phone app. There are only 5 wires to connect: power, ground, SDA, SCL and WP, and they are all on J5 of the JAB-3+. I've got some of these boards and I'll get the software finished once I can get back to doing fun stuff. The phone app software can control the bass enhancement functions on a "generic" ADAU1701 board, but the JAB-3+ has some special issues that I haven't addressed yet.