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2 pronged question...2inch peerless and ideas on how to finish 3d print.

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  • neildavis
    replied
    That amp would be great for an active two-way speaker with programmable crossover, BSC, EQ, and bass enhancement. You would need to program the EEPROM that is on that board with the SigmaStudio code. Or, you can add that microprocessor board and it will program the ADAU1701 and the EEPROM for you, and provide a high-level Bluetooth interface for real-time DSP control. As I said, I've got working code for the ADAU1701, but the Wondom board has a unique challenge, in that it is designed for battery-operation and it powers down the DSP when there is no audio activity. I haven't written the code to deal with that issue yet, but it isn't difficult.

    Yep, there is still the intimidating issue of programming the microprocessor board, but if there is enough interest we might get someone to sell pre-programmed boards that would convert these nice amps into great active 2-way amps. That would give the DIY community a really nice building block for active speakers with enough DSP power to compensate for small cabinets. I know someone who interested in providing that type of product, but I can't help make that happen until the work on my house is complete. We are trying to sell this place, and I've still got lot of refurbishment to do...

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  • 3rutu5
    replied
    Originally posted by neildavis View Post
    If you are referring to the JAB-3+ board, you could program it's ADAU1701 to provide several bass enhancement functions, any of which could help overcome the limitations of the small volume. The Linkwitz Transform or conventional bass boost will provide more low frequency output, but they don't help much if you are constrained by the cone excursion limits. However, the ADI Superbass algorithm generates harmonics that give the impression of deeper bass without requiring more cone excursion. Superbass can sound "fake" and distorted if turned up too far, but at moderate levels it can be fairly effective without sounding fake.

    Programming the ADAU1701 would require either putting the DSP code into the JAB-3+ EEPROM with a SigmaStudio programmer, or else you could add a CPU board to control the DSP. If you use the CPU board, you could control all of the parameters (such as the intensity or frequency of the Superbass) from a cell phone app. The CPU board is that white area in the picture with the OLED display--it doesn't take up much space at all, and it has built-in Bluetooth to receive commands from the cell phone app. There are only 5 wires to connect: power, ground, SDA, SCL and WP, and they are all on J5 of the JAB-3+. I've got some of these boards and I'll get the software finished once I can get back to doing fun stuff. The phone app software can control the bass enhancement functions on a "generic" ADAU1701 board, but the JAB-3+ has some special issues that I haven't addressed yet.
    I grabbed this random one with adjustable pots on it to tweak the DSP, but haven't done any research into it, just know it's adjustable. About a year ago I looked into the LT circuit trying to get something small that helped me get that Bose SoundLink mini bass and performance, but truth be told i found it quite intimidating and didn't pursue it any further due to lack of knowledge and the introduction of those small amp modules
    Attached Files

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  • neildavis
    replied
    If you are referring to the JAB-3+ board, you could program it's ADAU1701 to provide several bass enhancement functions, any of which could help overcome the limitations of the small volume. The Linkwitz Transform or conventional bass boost will provide more low frequency output, but they don't help much if you are constrained by the cone excursion limits. However, the ADI Superbass algorithm generates harmonics that give the impression of deeper bass without requiring more cone excursion. Superbass can sound "fake" and distorted if turned up too far, but at moderate levels it can be fairly effective without sounding fake.

    Programming the ADAU1701 would require either putting the DSP code into the JAB-3+ EEPROM with a SigmaStudio programmer, or else you could add a CPU board to control the DSP. If you use the CPU board, you could control all of the parameters (such as the intensity or frequency of the Superbass) from a cell phone app. The CPU board is that white area in the picture with the OLED display--it doesn't take up much space at all, and it has built-in Bluetooth to receive commands from the cell phone app. There are only 5 wires to connect: power, ground, SDA, SCL and WP, and they are all on J5 of the JAB-3+. I've got some of these boards and I'll get the software finished once I can get back to doing fun stuff. The phone app software can control the bass enhancement functions on a "generic" ADAU1701 board, but the JAB-3+ has some special issues that I haven't addressed yet.

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  • 3rutu5
    replied
    Originally posted by neildavis View Post
    For these speakers in a small enclosure, the TS parameters really shouldn't matter. You need to do what the "big boys" do: use DSP to compensate for the lack of "natural" bass. You can implement a Linkwitz transform, or just use bass boost, or use a bass enhancement algorithm that provides the effect of extra bass without excessive cone movement. You can do the DSP/control on a board that is about 3" by 1.5" by 1"--see the ESP-DSP board at this link: 6a. Gen 2 stereo 3-way DSP Board – Audiodevelopers Reborn. I've been busy working on my house and haven't been doing fun stuff lately, but I'll release the schematics and code in the next month or so. You can control all of the bass enhancement functions via an Android phone app. I'd be happy to send you a board once I make some more .

    Click image for larger version

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    Had a complete mental blank as well, i have a wondom 2x50w BT AMP which has DSP, so if i read what you are saying you could sacrifice space and modify the EQ to compensate? wondering if that would make the bass sound weird or different to that of a properly sized enclosure? What was your experience in that regards?

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  • JRT
    replied
    Originally posted by 3rutu5 View Post

    Sorry, I didn't want to test as I don't have the equipment or current skillset or knowledge. I can design enclosures, 3d print and build things, but some of this stuff just makes me feel stupid
    Sticky threads near the top of the forum:

    Sticky:Easy ZMA and T/S Parameters Using The LIMP Module in ARTA - An Illustrated Guide by hongrn

    Sticky:Measured T/S Parameter Thread Sticky by mattp


    If you can build the most simple of loudspeakers, then you can build this test jig.












    .
    Last edited by JRT; 05-24-2021, 06:44 PM.

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  • 3rutu5
    replied
    Originally posted by JRT View Post

    Three,
    Why "apart from" testing?
    Just do the testing.
    Sorry, I didn't want to test as I don't have the equipment or current skillset or knowledge. I can design enclosures, 3d print and build things, but some of this stuff just makes me feel stupid

    Leave a comment:


  • 3rutu5
    replied
    I finally got.a response from peerless, basically got told no as it is a custom driver and they don't give out that data to the public.

    I like the idea of a DSP board, just need the space. My tiny bit/amp board has a customizable eq but you need to go via.the csr module and they 8 points are too small for me to solder to...I've heard of some folks using a usb setup with pogo pins but have no idea what that actually is. I got a.few of.rhese boards.aftet a.guy in Europe was making variants of a bose SoundLink mini clone and he used that to get more out of the compact setup, sounded pretty good via YouTube but it fuelled a 2yr obsession almost to make smaller setups that sound like a bose..... impossible task for me

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  • neildavis
    replied
    For these speakers in a small enclosure, the TS parameters really shouldn't matter. You need to do what the "big boys" do: use DSP to compensate for the lack of "natural" bass. You can implement a Linkwitz transform, or just use bass boost, or use a bass enhancement algorithm that provides the effect of extra bass without excessive cone movement. You can do the DSP/control on a board that is about 3" by 1.5" by 1"--see the ESP-DSP board at this link: 6a. Gen 2 stereo 3-way DSP Board – Audiodevelopers Reborn. I've been busy working on my house and haven't been doing fun stuff lately, but I'll release the schematics and code in the next month or so. You can control all of the bass enhancement functions via an Android phone app. I'd be happy to send you a board once I make some more .

    Click image for larger version

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    Leave a comment:


  • JRT
    replied
    Originally posted by 3rutu5 View Post
    Ok guys I've had these parts and ideas for 12-24 months now ... I've sent an email off to peerless and not 100% certain if they will have a spec sheet (assuming research is correct and it is an actual peerless driver). Big question is apart from Google or having a testing setup is there any other avenues I could go down to get some TS parameters?
    Three,
    Why "apart from" testing?
    Just do the testing.

    Leave a comment:


  • neildavis
    replied
    I don't know how Peerless assigns their part numbers, but my guess is that the last digit before the dash is likely a finish or mounting or other option that doesn't have an impact on the TS parameters. So the TS parameters are probably very similar to the PLS-50N25AL04-04 (follow link to datasheet).

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  • 3rutu5
    replied
    i got a response from Peerless, basically telling me to contact an Australian distributor of their product, which i guess is corporate for get lost. Unless i'm missing something if a distributor doesnt show it in their stocklist and the manufactorer doesnt show it in their support section, i'm feeling doubtful that ill get my spec sheet. Maybe it is an old series of driver and discontinued (which unlikely as i did see Toms one on there), or dont list mass produced items made specifically for a device......Or its a dodgy clone/knockoff and it isnt actually called that....

    I know they sound alright in a small enclosure, just wish i had the gear to work it out properly so i could model it up correctly.

    now just need to figure out what to do to finish the design in the way of a print, internals may be already sorted, just working out the kinks with the power/portability

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  • 3rutu5
    replied
    Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
    If no one "near" you has a DATS, why not try the "LIMP" module from the (free) ARTA suite?
    While EYE have never used that (along w/a homemade "jig"), many here have.
    Interesting suggestion Chris, might look into it, either that or find one of those fancy mics.

    I honestly don't know of anyone in my immediate community who actually tinkers with speakers (in australia/bris)

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  • 3rutu5
    replied
    Tom, I think these were all salvaged or oversupply from the Google home and had a frame with a slight notch which I took off with some coarse sandpaper. The page has since gone as I don't think they are available any more
    I did see that driver as discontinued on the peerless product page which looks similar by eye, but to be honest they all look similar at this 2inch size

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  • tomzarbo
    replied
    Yours sure look tobe Peerless from the frame/magnet assembly.

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  • tomzarbo
    replied
    I assume you tried the QR code and it didn't yield any useful info?
    Is there a question/answer section where you purchased from that you could ask if someone would measure it for you?
    It looks like a stout little driver anyway.

    I have a few Peerless drivers that look similar, but with square frames. Much older though.

    ​​​​​​​TomZ

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