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Two-Way Version 2 build thread

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  • JonathanPenner
    replied
    That wood is stunning! Those speakers are going to look really sharp when they’re all buttoned up.

    Leave a comment:


  • fatmarley
    replied
    Originally posted by DeZZar View Post

    Cant find any PU18 specifically down under but I think it might be similar to this sort of thing:I might just grab whichever of these I can find in store and try it out on a couple of scrap boards
    I don't know about the 3M version, but rustoleum says permanently flexible in the datasheet, so that's what I'd go for.

    When you squeeze some out of the tube and let it cure, you should be able to stretch it apart, and when you let go, it should slowly return back to shape. Obviously it's no good if it goes hard when cured, or if it springs back into place as something like silicone sealant would.

    Leave a comment:


  • DeZZar
    replied
    Originally posted by fatmarley View Post
    Over here in the UK we have stuff called PU18 that works very well...
    Cant find any PU18 specifically down under but I think it might be similar to this sort of thing:I might just grab whichever of these I can find in store and try it out on a couple of scrap boards

    Leave a comment:


  • DeZZar
    replied
    After a lot of routing and sanding the side panels are finally prepared and this is what they are looking like with a couple coats of Scandinavian Oil (yep, that's what Danish Oil is called here now - did the Danes get offended or something?)

    Click image for larger version

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    Plan from here is to allow this to set/cure for a couple of days, then apply clear gain filler and then begin the process of applying varnish. I ended up going with a clear gloss UV resistant marine varnish.

    I've tried this with a test piece and so far so good. I guess we'll see how it turns out on the large pieces.

    Leave a comment:


  • DeZZar
    commented on 's reply
    OK! New thread started!

  • Steve Lee
    commented on 's reply
    I agree! START A NEW THREAD with your PRINTER PROJECTS!

    PLEASE?

  • a4eaudio
    commented on 's reply
    You SHOULD post this in a new thread. I think a LOT of people would find that interesting, but not everyone will get to post #52 of the thread vaguely titled "Two-Way Version 2 build thread".

  • DeZZar
    replied
    So without starting a new thread this is what a "cheap" 3D printer has been good for in my shop. I think its paid for itself well and truly!!

    ...

    EDIT: New thread started instead of posting it all here: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...-for-workshops
    Last edited by DeZZar; 06-10-2021, 11:08 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Colonel7
    commented on 's reply
    Thanks - good info!

  • DeZZar
    replied
    Originally posted by a4eaudio View Post
    Pretty clever corner jigs. Rockler has something kind of similar that is nice but kind of pricey, and I see its gone from about $60 to $80 rockler-corner-radius-routing-templates
    Thanks. Yeah they are very similar to the rockler ones but by comparison take an hour to get to me and cost $0.34 to print At those prices I could pay for the printer by printing just 5 of these templates!

    I could probably start a whole other thread just covering what the printer has been useful for!!

    Leave a comment:


  • DeZZar
    replied
    Originally posted by Colonel7 View Post
    Fantastic build and techniques. What 3D printer did you go with? There's so many choices now and difficult to sift through.
    I grabbed an Ender3 Pro from BangGood. Cost about $350. I purchased a few little upgraded parts for it as well which are all just swap/plug and play - probably only about another 20-30 bucks worth. Its been a really good and reliable little machine.

    Leave a comment:


  • a4eaudio
    commented on 's reply
    Pretty clever corner jigs. Rockler has something kind of similar that is nice but kind of pricey, and I see its gone from about $60 to $80 rockler-corner-radius-routing-templates

  • Colonel7
    replied
    Fantastic build and techniques. What 3D printer did you go with? There's so many choices now and difficult to sift through.

    Leave a comment:


  • DeZZar
    replied
    Cutting the rear insert panels now for the back of the speakers. I created this rear compartment with enough room to comfortably hold a crossover with quality (large) parts and easily access it in the future. Its also sufficient space to potentially explore active options should a future owner choose to.

    Click image for larger version

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    One of the challenges with this build is that there are a number of instances of various sized outer radius cuts to be made. You could cut them by hand, sand them away on a disc sander etc but there is very little likelihood of getting multiple corners exactly the same.

    This is why I think a 3D printer is actually one of the most important tools in my shop. Your only usually an hour away from any jig, guide or template you need. In side case a perfect 16mm radius corner.
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    Took about 15min to design and an hour to print and we have easy repeatability.

    This will be even more important for the inset side panels on this build which need to fit a tight radiused corner very precisely.

    11mm version of the side panels - test passed.
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    That's the result I'm after!
    Click image for larger version

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    For the cost of a 3D printer (less than a lot of tools) it has paid for itself so many times already! Cannot recommend highly enough!

    Leave a comment:


  • DeZZar
    replied
    Originally posted by Paul K. View Post
    A number of years ago I made some accessories out of scrap 3/4" plywood that helped get panels clamped nicely flat.
    Paul
    Yeah perfect. So much better than dropping a whole pay cheque on this stupidity https://www.logosol.com.au/product/g...tart-up-kit-2/

    Leave a comment:

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