Two-Way Version 2 build thread

[Geoff Millar]

I used the RS180P-8 and it sounds excellent, plus it looks really cool with that phase plug.

Geoff

[DeZZar]

Thanks Geoff. I was really impressed with the results from this driver combo. There were moments in the original build where I was concerned I might not have chosen well but in the end they do sound really good together. I'm hoping with the changes to the bass alignment along with the other treatments they will be even better. This version has significantly less group delay and the alignment should yield even better dynamics. I'm also hoping the more aggressive rounding on the front panel will help smooth things out even more although the first version did already achieve +-1-2db across the range :D

[Geoff Millar]

These look absolutely brilliant, they should also sound pretty good as you've chosen excellent drivers.

Value!

Geoff

[DeZZar]

First baffle glued up.




Slot port section all glued up and just placed in position to see how it looks.


The rounded back corner of the port needed to have the transitions smoothed over so I've added some filler and sanded that smooth as well. This will get a couple coats of sanding sealer to harden and polish up the surface so its nice and smooth.

[wogg]

That is going to be a ridiculously solid cabinet. Well done sir!

[DeZZar]

Glued in the first braces


And then the rippled panel pieces glued up for the top section, trimmed and glued in place!



Top sections all glued up ready for mounting the baffles.

[DeZZar]

So long as the material has some flex/stretch to it you can definitely get it to mold around corners. I did attempt to cover the entire curved edge/corner in one piece rather than two and this doesn't work - it just doesn't have enough stretch and its impossible to smooth out where it needs to bunch up. With the two part approach you can get a really good finish.

[tomzarbo]

Thanks Tom.

I've worked a little bit with this "leather" before so I'm familiar with what it will and wont do. The parenthesis around "leather" is because its not real hide - its a leather look material backed PVC vinyl. I would definitely like to use real leather but the cost is quite high and I'm not familiar with how well it would take to these shapes.

The stuff I'm using is about 0.7mm in total thickness (I'm not sure how that translates to the ounce measure).

I have a whole heap of different samples as its hard to find really good stuff. Most only stretches' in one direction and its almost impossible to find without the material backing on it. The stuff I settled on isn't too shiny or dull, has a nice grain texture to it that is sufficiently random that over large surface areas you cannot see any repeating patterns. I've got samples here where the quality is really nice but when you lay it out you can clearly see a small repeating pattern.

I have some material I purchased from Hobby Lobby that resembles grained leather as well, but is a thin fabric. I would say it's pretty much the same as what you described. I hope my project comes out quality looking as yours did. I'm encouraged to give it a try now.

TomZ

[DeZZar]

Do you know that weight of the leather you used? Looks to be 2.5 to 3.5 ounce? The thin stuff seems to be very expensive.
I'm in the process of doing some leather side panels on speakers but nothing that difficult.

You really pulled that off nicely! Have you worked with leather before?

Thanks Tom.

I've worked a little bit with this "leather" before so I'm familiar with what it will and wont do. The parenthesis around "leather" is because its not real hide - its a leather look material backed PVC vinyl. I would definitely like to use real leather but the cost is quite high and I'm not familiar with how well it would take to these shapes.

The stuff I'm using is about 0.7mm in total thickness (I'm not sure how that translates to the ounce measure).

I have a whole heap of different samples as its hard to find really good stuff. Most only stretches' in one direction and its almost impossible to find without the material backing on it. The stuff I settled on isn't too shiny or dull, has a nice grain texture to it that is sufficiently random that over large surface areas you cannot see any repeating patterns. I've got samples here where the quality is really nice but when you lay it out you can clearly see a small repeating pattern.

[DeZZar]

DeZZar - tell us more about that ROUTER in the circle cutting jig, PLEASE?

Hi Steve,

Correct I took the standard base the trim router came with and modelled a new one with dust collection. Its 3D printed. Happy to send you the 3D print file if you're interested and have access to a 3D printer.

It accepts what I believe to be a fairly standard trim router body size of 65mm (2.5inch). The one I'm using is just the corded Ryobi trim router (https://www.ryobi.com.au/products/de...outer-rtr400-s) but I believe the Makita option will work as well.




The little hole on the side and the flat surface is for mounting an LED light so you can see what you're cutting.

[tomzarbo]

Now we're talking! That looks gorgeous!

Do you know that weight of the leather you used? Looks to be 2.5 to 3.5 ounce? The thin stuff seems to be very expensive.
I'm in the process of doing some leather side panels on speakers but nothing that difficult.

You really pulled that off nicely! Have you worked with leather before?

TomZ

[Steve Lee]

DeZZar - tell us more about that ROUTER in the circle cutting jig, PLEASE?

It looks like you made a dust collection base for it and reused an existing laminate router motor - please elaborate because I NEED ONE JUST LIKE IT.

Thanks.

[scottvalentin]

Wow excellent work! Great attention to detail, high value drivers, solid construction - sure to be a winner! Well done

[Steve Lee]

Really nice set-up and interesting project, DeZZar.

Keep going . . .

[DeZZar]

Gutter works well and when you bring the two back together they meet up nicely.

The timber underneath the model is solid Jarrah which will complete the side panels.