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12" DD1512 Build 28Hz

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  • 12" DD1512 Build 28Hz

    So custom DD1512 supercharged coming soon.

    Trying to get what I want by building an enclosure.

    ​​​​​​Cubic feet: 2.0
    Port diameter: 4"
    Port Length including flare: 18"
    ​​​Box Specs: 18"X 16"X 16"

    Style: Down Firing.


    So just realized that by building the legs across the entire side Using MDF (creates two ports).

    *I still have to cut out the sides.

    The Gap in these ports are 2.5"
    Covering 18" on both sides
    Leaving 16"X3" on both (other sides).


    Question:

    Since I am creating a bottom using MDF I feel I'm creating a 6th order?

    Originally I was just going to create a down firing.

    I would really appreciate if I could pull off a 6 order bandpass.

    Since I've now created ports is it going to take away from the other round Port tuning?
    Attached Files

  • #2

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    • #3

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      • #4
        How's that 18" port going to fit, with an elbow?

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
          How's that 18" port going to fit, with an elbow?
          Just sticking out the front.

          Is this considered a 6th order bandpass? Or still Downfiring?

          Thanks.

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          • #6
            I hope this works.

            Underneath: 2.5" clearance.
            16X18"
            .23 Cubic feet

            The question is does it work and what do you call it?

            Attached Files

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            • #7
              I'm going to test it.
              And if it doesn't work then I'm going to cut out legs.

              But if it does work then great because I don't know yet how to calculate a Bandpass Enclosure.

              Just hope this still hits at the port frequency of 28Hz.
              If the bottom acts to 6th order??? Idk
              I'm really just trying to make the best down firing sub as I can.

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              • #8
                It's a slot-loaded vented alignment
                Brian Steele
                www.diysubwoofers.org

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Brian Steele View Post
                  It's a slot-loaded vented alignment
                  Is it the correct specs for 6th order?

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                  • #10
                    No
                    Brian Steele
                    www.diysubwoofers.org

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Evyn View Post

                      Is it the correct specs for 6th order?
                      So the slot loaded vented alignment has what particular effect on the sound? There's going to be a port tuned to 28HZ.

                      That's technically not a 6th order bandpass if it's loaded by a slot and passing out a vent.?


                      ​​​​​​Thanks

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                      • #12
                        Update: Glue has dried for the: Slot-loaded/Vented Alignment.

                        If this doesn't sound good then I'll cut out in Arch with a jigsaw.
                        Attached Files

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                        • #13
                          The reason why there is blue tape is because I'm going to paint the entire enclosure jet black (like the port).

                          After testing it with bass after experiments. I will glue the tapped off parts to the floor.

                          Because if I ever had to remove the glue to reach the Subwoofer I could use a heat gun.

                          Plus the entire Enclosure is screwless.
                          Attached Files

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                          • #14
                            Close-up on the glue job.

                            I'm going to link a video after the project to hopefully surprise you with the performance of the Slot-loaded/Vented Alignment.

                            And all the other characteristics that make this build unique.



                            This is my first ported enclosure build.

                            I'm not giving myself limited options until I experiment.

                            So I get the experience to know before I commit to glueing it to the floor.
                            Attached Files

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                            • #15
                              You might take a long hard think before gluing that lumber to the floor - you may live to regret doing so, later - when you least need that headache to remove . . .

                              Screwing it down makes more sense and is easily removed/holes patched later.

                              Just my $0.02 - good luck.

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