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3rutu5 epic failure series - july edition

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  • 3rutu5
    replied
    i had 3mm thick inner and outer walls, with 80% infill. I was going to do 100% but forgot. Last design i did i went with solid walls and it was really sturdy.

    Had another issue before, didnt stick to the bed and i went down to a nice chunk of PLA stuck to the nozzle. All fixed and not too far into the print job.

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  • DeZZar
    replied
    Keen to see how this turns out. What infill are you going for?

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  • 3rutu5
    replied
    FIRST FAILURE.....AutoCAD model a few MM's too big for the bed......sigh.....

    FIX......scaled down to 97% to fit nicely, a few amendments to suit drivers and change of the enclosure for the peerless driver being a sphere not a random shape. with this i was actually surprised to see that the effeiciencies with some futher design looks to have increased the internal volume slightly for the W130X and components to 0.08cuft

    Decided i would design a plug for the terminals at the back as well. One good outcome from the phantoms was designing the groove on both sides for the side walls to slot into. both sides can then be expoxied in. The 5inch hole on the side of each will be good for accessing the speaker later. Was thinking of hot gluing or some gorilla glue the sphere that holds the FR as from experience with the boozetooth speakers that its strong enough to hold it and with a little force/heat they can be removed. The front baffle that houses the FR has been thickened up as well and the entire face widened, hence the extra volume.

    I've put on the print for the body and the sphere and will see how it goes in 2 days and 5 hours, chewing up 800grams of PLA. Lucky normal PLA is cheap at $25 a roll, i would assume that i use 2kgs by the end of this, maybe a little more so lets say 3 rolls as there will be some errors along the way. Fingers crossed the train of thought works for this one.

    Attached Files

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  • 3rutu5
    replied
    Originally posted by Billet View Post
    I have some Visaton W130S drivers, they sound very nice well into the midrange and even lower treble. You could cross them over much higher if you wanted. Might be interesting...
    I've used only the visaton BF37s before and they worked really well in a compact build, i gave the W130x a test run in a small cardboard box which was flimsy and it sounded promising even though i didnt really push them. I find it amazing that a 5inch woofer can operate in these small enclosures, yes i could go a tangband sub or one of those Peerless ones but still in the model the W130X will hit a F3 of 44hz in a 0.14cuft box. I'm quite happy to get the F3 in the mid 50's, hence why im going half that.....too be honest where my computer is in the open plan lower level here, even though i'm 10m away from the lounge it is almost pointing towards the other tv (with a few walls in the way) so most likely im going to get told to turn it down haha. One of the other reasons i'm going the change as my PC speakers, that i really like are about a 400mm away of a 45deg angle from my ears to naturally they want to go right past me. This smaller build should give me a little more setback

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  • 3rutu5
    replied
    Originally posted by Wolf View Post
    Those Peerless sound quite nice. I heard a project with those and a PR, and it was nice all by itself. I don't know if there was anything else in the cabs in form of contouring or filtering, but nice nonetheless.

    Wolf
    thats promising, i found a post on DIYaudio that slayed them and apart from some japanese folks on youtube i found next to nothing. They mentioned something about cone breakup on the high end and looking at the crossover above there is a pretty significant dip around 10-20k, not quite sure how to correct that or if i would even hear anything up that frequency.. I ran a sim yesterday as purely a learning excercise where i used the TEBM65 as the mid/high driver as i had Chris's FRD/ZMA from last year some time and i got a dip similar, but in the middle 1-2k mark, seemed interesting that i could remove components and it would really do nothing different. I'm sure this is a program like a lot of the civil engineering design packages i use where you put something in and it gives you a result......but unless you know what you are designing it may not be the correct result.

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  • Wolf
    replied
    Those Peerless sound quite nice. I heard a project with those and a PR, and it was nice all by itself. I don't know if there was anything else in the cabs in form of contouring or filtering, but nice nonetheless.

    Wolf

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  • 3rutu5
    commented on 's reply
    I was thinking they would probably pair well with a tweeter, but then I'm going wider and will have issues sitting on my desk. Also was thinking using it with a TEBM35.or 65 but then I'm not sure how that would work...I think because I'm fixated on the side firing woofer I'm restricted to 200hz

  • Billet
    replied
    I have some Visaton W130S drivers, they sound very nice well into the midrange and even lower treble. You could cross them over much higher if you wanted. Might be interesting...

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  • 3rutu5
    replied
    Has anyone used the Peerless 830985 drivers or seen a project that had used them? i seem to be finding not much out there?

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  • 3rutu5
    replied
    Originally posted by zx82net View Post
    Nice!
    Perhaps it would be worth thickening up the baffle is the region of the HF driver?
    Not a bad idea, was thinking of adding some points to mount some bolts or nuts to make fitting it easier, that would help by doing a bit of thickening

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  • zx82net
    replied
    Nice!
    Perhaps it would be worth thickening up the baffle is the region of the HF driver?

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  • 3rutu5
    commented on 's reply
    Whoops, unless I'm planning to reanimate it

  • Wolf
    replied
    "Receased"? You mean 'Recessed'?
    Wolf

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  • 3rutu5
    replied
    Originally posted by tomzarbo View Post
    Devnull has a good point since the enclosure is so small...

    If you made it a smidge deeper, you could print in a few attachment points for a matching crossover board with holes to zip tie/glue in the crossover bits.

    You know you're going to need some space for a few caps and inductors, might as well design for it at this point if since you're a 3-D printing expert!

    I like the design look by the way.

    TomZ
    Yeah Tom I don't actually know how big a crossover is yet as I've never done one before, but considering the size of my few BSCs with the iron cores I think I'm in for a shock ..

    I was thinking that I could use the 100v non polarized caps as these will be powered by a 12v amp and probably no more than 30-50w per channel (unless I can use my dta2 amp), I know they are a little bit smaller.

    I do like the idea of a custom board for the bits, maybe worked into the opposite side to the woofer. The overall width of this so far is about 120mm so maybe bump it out to 140 and get an extra 20mm internal, the more.volume and room for bits n pieces. It would be a wise move for me to hold fire on the printing until I actually get the parts, then I can see what I'm dealing with and adjust accordingly

    Guessing this was a similar issue for the passive aggressives being a small box and fitting the crossover and passives into that.

    Great responses guys, keep them coming.

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  • tomzarbo
    replied
    Devnull has a good point since the enclosure is so small...

    If you made it a smidge deeper, you could print in a few attachment points for a matching crossover board with holes to zip tie/glue in the crossover bits.

    You know you're going to need some space for a few caps and inductors, might as well design for it at this point if since you're a 3-D printing expert!

    I like the design look by the way.

    TomZ

    Leave a comment:

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