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Classix 2.5 bass question
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Before trying the 2.5" port, try djg's recommendation of using a 90 degree elbow. If that works it will be easier than resizing the hole.
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Pulled the eggcrate from behind the port, now have just about 1.5 inches clear between it and the enclosure wall. Also pulled out some of the polyfill from behind the woofers. It's significantly better. I'll probably try converting to a 2.5 inch port to see what that's like, but they're very listenable as-is. Thanks for the help!
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There shouldn't be any eggcrate material behind the port on this. There isn't enough room. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
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I appreciate all the responses. I bought all the components individually so no one to blame but me. If I'm understanding, the issue isn't that my existing port is the wrong length (9 inch overall, 8.5 inch effective) but rather that the existing gap between the inside end of the port and the back of the enclosure (1.25 inches less egg crate material) is insufficient?
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This came up before. The builder ended up with a down firing port since it didn't appear there was enough room front to back to fit the proper size 3" Precision Port.
The new kit comes with a 2.5" x 5.75" Precision Port.
If you whine at the kit supplier they may send you a new port package. They are nice people. Of course your hole's too big, but it's DIY.
Another solution would be a 90 degree elbow in your 3" port.
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You are still .5" closer to the back wall. Try a 1/2" or larger piece of plywood between the port flange and the front of your speaker cabinet. See if that makes it any better. Also make sure there is no stuffing or damping material between the back of the port and the back wall of the cabinet.
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Ok. I probably didn't clarify, I'm only using the precision port on one end of the port (outside). Outside flare (2.5 inches) + 6 inch straight port tube, no inside flare.
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Each end of the flare is 3.0 inches long. Only 2.5 inches of this is used in your port calculation leaving you with an extra .5 inches on each side. This makes the actual overall length 9.5 inches instead of 8.5. Flare ports are always a bit longer than straight ports, because the flare itself does not count in your actual port length. Hope that makes sense.
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Originally posted by stev View PostCould my problem be that I've surface mounted the port to the front of the cabinet without taking into account the thickness of the front panel (3/4")? Essentially ended up with a port that's 3/4 of an inch too short?
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Then the overall length of the port is 9.5 inches and is too close to the back of the cabinet. The kit I bought also came with the precision port, but I did not use it. The kits now have been modified to a 2.5" precision port 5.75" long to mitigate this. You can either buy the 2.5" precision port or put a standard 3" port in place.
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Could my problem be that I've surface mounted the port to the front of the cabinet without taking into account the thickness of the front panel (3/4")? Essentially ended up with a port that's 3/4 of an inch too short?
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Carbon13 I put a big handful behind each woofer. Am I correct in assuming the fill is there to tame some boominess? I'll try pulling it all out and seeing what happens.
johnny5jz sorry, I'm a little confused. I think the design calls for an 8.5 inch long port. I read that exact section on the Precision Port website, and my logic was the flared port (2.5 inch usable length) + 6 inch length of straight tube = 8.5 inch long port. Maybe I'm misinterpreting something there?
Thank you both for the responses!
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Per the precision port website "Overall length of flare is 3" of which only 2 1/2" is usable because of the flare." per this, the port would actually be 9.5 inches overall, putting it 3/4" from the back wall. That could definitely lower your tuning frequency and also make the bottom end a little thin. If the port is 8.5 inches overall, it would raise the tuning frequency and could make it a bit boomy, but at a higher frequency.
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