first time attempt - crossover - peer review wanted.

[3rutu5]

Hey guys, i've been bugging DeZZar a bit and thought i'll give him a break, i think based on his inital first pass i've tried to have a go and would like some input into it.

Quick briefing, using a peerless 2.5inch full range with a side firing 5inch visaton woofer. Wanting to cross around 200hz (maybe 250)....

I've never done anything like this before and quite green in that regards, so if i have stuffed something up please let me know. I intend to use the ELKO premium caps for the woofer and a iron core inductor. With the full range i will try and use the Jantzen cross caps and air core inductors (unless advised otherwise). I think from looking at this that i might be able to cram most of it into the enclosures.

Other post if wanting to see what im working with...

https://techtalk.parts-express.com/f...s-july-edition

[DeZZar]

Hey mate,

Given you can't take measurements at the moment it would also be worth setting up a diffraction model for your speaker and factoring that into the files being used for the sim.
This tool can produce an FRD file that you can merge with the full-range FRD: http://audio.claub.net/software/jbabgy/BDBS.html

The woofer is less important here as it is playing below the diffraction frequencies but just need to account for the fact its side firing. Matching it up with the midrange in terms of output once its on your desk with some environmental bass reinforcement going on is likely going to be a matter of taste can be fine tuned with the attenuation of the full-range by changing that up front resistor value.

[LOUT]

Is it still important to adapt the simulated results of the woofer potentially as much as -6db despite the woofer playing below the diffraction frequencies, to make sure it shows at the proper level in the SIM...or is the sim already full space VS half space?

Looking at the W130S-4 frequency spec, I'm assuming this SIM is using the same halfspace results, so it might be safer assuming the woofer might be a few db quieter in real life from BaffleStep losses (aka, the fullrange might want another ~-3db or more padding to balance with the bass response).

[DeZZar]

Agree. It's just a case of determining how much. These are intended for a desk, which is presumably up against a wall, possibly even in a corner, so there will be some reinforcement - a couple of db might be enough or -6db might be required. Hard to say which is why I recommend being prepared to try a few different values for the resistor on that full range driver.

[Geoff Millar]

Here's a project which uses that woofer in a side-firing configuration, however, it uses a different full range driver and a series crossover, about which I know b---r all.

However, the write up might help you:

https://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/p/...ht+Speaker+Kit

Geoff

[3rutu5]

Hey mate,

Given you can't take measurements at the moment it would also be worth setting up a diffraction model for your speaker and factoring that into the files being used for the sim.
This tool can produce an FRD file that you can merge with the full-range FRD: http://audio.claub.net/software/jbabgy/BDBS.html

The woofer is less important here as it is playing below the diffraction frequencies but just need to account for the fact its side firing. Matching it up with the midrange in terms of output once its on your desk with some environmental bass reinforcement going on is likely going to be a matter of taste can be fine tuned with the attenuation of the full-range by changing that up front resistor value.

This is it guys, where they will sit. That first print is sitting next to my current speakers. In a corner desk almost at the wall, but not..

LOUT

DeZZar

[LOUT]

That spot does look like it could give a lot of bass reinforcement from being so near the walls and corner (not that I really know what I'm talking about as a complete amature...but it does kinda look corner-loaded).
Plus, Windows Sound Manager includes a bass-boost with selectable frequency and db amount (I'm guessing other OS's likely include a similar feature too) and the WIndows version seems to be OS-wide for everything. So you can probably get away with leaving the speaker crossover/BaffleStepCompensation roughly as loud as possible (still taming the mid-bump can be a good idea after you've found where it should be) and then use the SoundManager bassboost if you feel they sound a little "thin" while keeping the option to play them a few db louder at maximum if you turn the bassboost off. ..IF they'll always be plugged into the computer.