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Best size(s) for reusable speaker cabinets / knock-down cabinets

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  • Best size(s) for reusable speaker cabinets / knock-down cabinets

    I am thinking of building some cabinets with a replaceable inset baffle where I could design different speakers and just swap the drivers in and out - remaking a face-plate or adding a speaker grill for the specific drivers. I would make several sizes but I have not built enough speakers to know what would be a good/useful standard size. I can always reduce volume so I would err on being too big and go with a baffle width that can handle the largest woofer that I might use + 3/4" roundovers.

    In your building experience, what gross internal box volume and baffle width would be the most useful to you as a standard and how many sizes would be most useful to you?

    -----------------------
    I don't think I want to build 6 sizes, but doing a little research, my initial thoughts of possibilities are:
    1. Small Bookshelf 0.35 cf (10 L) 7.5" w baffle
    2. Medium Bookshelf: 0.56 cf (16 L) 8.5 w (same as PE flat pack)
    3. Large Bookshelf: 0.85 cf (24 L) 9.0 w
    4. Small Tower: 1.16 cf (33 L) 8.0 w (same as PE flat pack)
    5. Medium Tower: 1.75 cf (50 L) 10.5 w
    6. Large Tower: 3.5 cf (100 L) 12.0 w

  • #2
    You and I are headed in the same direction tonight.

    I just designed and simulated an 8" wide by 13" deep by 32" tall cabinet [1.2 gross cu ft] utilizing an existing yet uncompleted set of cabinets that will dig to 33 Hz and up to 25 Khz and will be fully configurable on the baffles for a 3 way system - everything is done in sections so you don't have to remake an entire baffle for the 3 drivers. (Roughly 84 db, though . . .)

    Keep going and you guys please chime in to a4eaudio's request for info/feedback.



    Aside/ tonight's thoughts:

    Nothing good/new/useful/revolutionary is created by committee.

    The best inventions/creations come from a singularly focused mind and and its physical efforts seeking only that information it understands that others may provide and nothing more than that.

    Tonight I have designed and planned out/simulated in software my next speaker build utilizing an existing pair of cabinets which have sat uncompleted for about 2 years- it is a fully configurable 3 way speaker test cabinet of around 1.2 cu ft of gross internal volume which should get me down to 33 Hz ~ 25+ Khz sound reproduction in an 8" wide by 13" deep by 32" tall cabinet [perfect for main speakers on either side of a 50" TV screen or music recording studio with live performers in a small/acoustically dead room].

    Keep going . . .



    Comment


    • #3
      "Bookshelf" speakers in about 14~16 liters (.5 cu. ft.) work pretty well with lots of 6"-6.5" mid-woofer (especially Tympany/Peerless). I haven't checked drivers available recently, but there were lots of great 5" mid-woofers that worked well in down to 7 Liters, but I think the trend has gone to one's working better in 10 Liter ported enclosures. I was looking for options for "bigger than a micro computer speaker, smaller than a breadbox" for desktop computer "monitor speakers", hopefully to fit into 7 liters and PE didn't have many options.
      I could see building a 40 liter floor standing tower for a two or three-way design. Use sand bags to fill volume for a two-way. I'm not too sure how viable large towers are today, unless you have a mega-room. Multiple sets of two-way or 2.5 speakers and subs can actually image more accurately than two mega speakers as there are time alignment things that go on in a BIG room and high SPLs.
      I think you could build THREE sizes of enclosures (small bookshelf, medium bookshelf, medium tower) and cover your experiments, but those are MY "wish list". If you have a different pick, have at it and have fun!

      Comment


      • #4
        Depends heavily on the size of your listening room and how much you value deep bass. I've built 0.5, 0.75, and 1 cu. ft. I like the 0.5 size best, it is a good compromise and can fit a wide range of drivers from 5 to 8". YMMV...

        Comment


        • #5
          Yeah, I'd probably condense 5&6 into maybe one size (2.0-2.5cf?) and make the 1.16 a bit larger (1.5?).
          3.5 cf is a bit overbearing in most "normal" size (large) rooms. I made some 5cf'ers for a friend once, and they just got a nod of disapproval.

          Comment


          • #6
            I reuse old boxes frequently. I cut them down sometimes. I stack two on top of each other sometimes to make a 3-way. Most of the smaller boxes eventually get thrown away. I want something that will work with 5.25" to 6.5" drivers. What I need is an easy way to alter the baffle so that I can replace it with a new one which can be glued on.

            With that said. I find a 9" wide baffle pretty much ideal. For a sealed 2-way, a 9" x 14" baffle is handy. I like large round-overs, or facets, but not all my speakers have them. A sloped baffle is very handy too!

            Most of the time, I have a sub for the deep bass. I have the urge to build ported 1.3 cu-ft towers for my living room, and not use a sub.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Whitneyville1 View Post
              "Bookshelf" speakers in about 14~16 liters (.5 cu. ft.) work pretty well with lots of 6"-6.5" mid-woofer (especially Tympany/Peerless).
              I noticed Bookshelf was in quotes...I think better terminology for a 24 L (0.85 cf) non-tower speaker would be "stand-mount" as it wouldn't be going on a bookshelf.



              Originally posted by Whitneyville1 View Post
              I'm not too sure how viable large towers are today, unless you have a mega-room.
              Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
              3.5 cf is a bit overbearing in most "normal" size (large) rooms.
              Good points. I have an idea for a TMWW with dual 10" woofers...but I doubt I would have multiple ideas where having a REUSABLE cabinet this size would be particularly useful.

              Comment


              • #8
                I'm also planning a reusable cabinet. It is set at 22 ltrs, and I can reduce internal volume if need be. Maybe a card-slot for the xover mount, and double-ended bulkhead for connections out to in via banana.
                I bought Neo magnets with screw-mounts to recess into the main box, and hopefully make changes easily. Just some washers epoxied to the back of the baffle, and a seal in between should do.

                Wolf
                "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
                "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
                "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
                "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

                *InDIYana event website*

                Photobucket pages:
                https://app.photobucket.com/u/wolf_teeth_speaker

                My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
                http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

                Comment


                • #9
                  For the tower, my vote would go for 2 cu ft and 8.5" wide. This width is needed to accomodate 7" woofers and two 3/4" roundovers. Also, two cubic feet gives you enough room to parallel up two 8 ohm, 7" woofers , resulting in a finished speaker with 6dB greater efficiency that can still dig fairly deep. I would also suggest the use of non-parallel sides or tops to help distribute internal box resonances.

                  Bill
                  SideTowers: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...corundum-build
                  Totally Flat: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...5-totally-flat
                  Plumber's Delight: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...notech-winners
                  Linehopper: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...Esoteric-build

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 4thtry View Post
                    For the tower, my vote would go for 2 cu ft and 8.5" wide. This width is needed to accomodate 7" woofers and two 3/4" roundovers. Also, two cubic feet gives you enough room to parallel up two 8 ohm, 7" woofers , resulting in a finished speaker with 6dB greater efficiency that can still dig fairly deep. I would also suggest the use of non-parallel sides or tops to help distribute internal box resonances.

                    Bill
                    After researching drivers and some of my "sims for fun" I am thinking of both a 1.7 cf width 9.5" width and a 2.8 cf with 10" width. The first allows a 3 way with a single 8" and the second a 3 way with dual 8" driver, based on estimates of the Dayton Reference, Reference paper and Designer 8" drivers.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by 4thtry View Post
                      a finished speaker with 6dB greater efficiency that can still dig fairly deep.
                      Bill, while I know what you mean, this isn't entirely accurate. 2 woofers in parallel will have +3dB great power efficiency, and +6dB great voltage sensitivity.
                      Just for clarity's sake,
                      Wolf
                      "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
                      "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
                      "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
                      "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

                      *InDIYana event website*

                      Photobucket pages:
                      https://app.photobucket.com/u/wolf_teeth_speaker

                      My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
                      http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Whitneyville1 View Post
                        "Bookshelf" speakers in about 14~16 liters (.5 cu. ft.) work pretty well with lots of 6"-6.5" mid-woofer (especially Tympany/Peerless). I haven't checked drivers available recently, but there were lots of great 5" mid-woofers that worked well in down to 7 Liters, but I think the trend has gone to one's working better in 10 Liter ported enclosures. I was looking for options for "bigger than a micro computer speaker, smaller than a breadbox" for desktop computer "monitor speakers", hopefully to fit into 7 liters and PE didn't have many options.
                        I could see building a 40 liter floor standing tower for a two or three-way design. Use sand bags to fill volume for a two-way. I'm not too sure how viable large towers are today, unless you have a mega-room. Multiple sets of two-way or 2.5 speakers and subs can actually image more accurately than two mega speakers as there are time alignment things that go on in a BIG room and high SPLs.
                        I think you could build THREE sizes of enclosures (small bookshelf, medium bookshelf, medium tower) and cover your experiments, but those are MY "wish list". If you have a different pick, have at it and have fun!
                        There is a design for a 7 liter RS150-4 speaker on FB by Javad Shadzi. Reportedly pretty good. I will probably build it.

                        I think I hear a difference - wow, it's amazing!" Ethan Winer: audio myths
                        "As God is my witness I'll never be without a good pair of speakers!" Scarlett O'Hara

                        High value, high quality RS150/TB28-537SH bookshelf - TARGAS NLA!
                        SB13/Vifa BC25SC06 MTM DCR Galeons-SB13-MTM
                        My Voxel min sub Yet-another-Voxel-build

                        Tangband W6-sub

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          The med bookshelf, 15 to 16 liters, works great for most 2 ways with a 8.5 inch width, then add a bass bin. I'm trying not to use the same shape.
                          John H

                          Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Wolf View Post

                            Bill, while I know what you mean, this isn't entirely accurate. 2 woofers in parallel will have +3dB great power efficiency, and +6dB great voltage sensitivity.
                            Just for clarity's sake,
                            Wolf
                            Correct. Poor wording on my part. Just to clarify a bit further, two 8 ohm woofers in parallel would give an increase of +3dB electrically AND +3dB acoustically for a total gain of 6dB in SPL at the listening position. The 3dB loss in power efficiency would be due to the power amplifier heatsinks getting hot from driving a 4 instead of an 8 ohm load.

                            Bill
                            SideTowers: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...corundum-build
                            Totally Flat: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...5-totally-flat
                            Plumber's Delight: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...notech-winners
                            Linehopper: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...Esoteric-build

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by jhollander View Post
                              The med bookshelf, 15 to 16 liters, works great for most 2 ways with a 8.5 inch width, then add a bass bin.
                              Thank you, that is useful.


                              Originally posted by jhollander View Post
                              I'm trying not to use the same shape.
                              I totally get this. My "normal" approach would be use actual measured T/S parameters, build a box the exact size needed and do facets, curves, etc. as I feel aesthetically. But at some point, I don't have enough rooms in my house or friends and family to give speakers to, so building a very nice cabinet with the full intent to repurpose with a different design and different drivers once a year allows me to try a lot of things without repeated cabinet building (which takes me forever).

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