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Design Using Leftover Drivers

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  • #16
    You could use the Silkie, RS100-4 and pair of DC160 as a small TMWW.
    I think it would work...
    Wolf


    This is my preference but I’d be happy to go Med to large over a small pair if it makes a difference..


    I love how clean and smooth the Peerless TC9FD18's are but they're just not sensitive enough to work with the other drivers. I would agree with both Howard and Wolf... the easy road is build the D3 MTM's with a silkie and two DC160's per side with Wayne's box design and xo. Or have a go at the more difficult road and build a TMWW as Wolf suggested (would need a xo developed).


    Ye there’s always an easy road which usually makes sense but I really like the idea of a TMWW design, not just to use up as many drivers as possible but I just like the look of it more..


    I was thinking the same thing. If OP could get another pair of TC9FD18's, would a WMTMW work? Still a db less sensitive than the single RS100-4, but would meet the "large floor standing 3-way" goal.


    As good as that sounds I really don’t want to buy any more speakers, I have way to many and that’s the main point of trying to come up with something to get rid of them..I’m hoping they will be a good all rounder sort of thing, lively sounding like I found the Classic 11 to be with more output..

    Thanks for all the help so far..

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    • #17
      I think Dezzar has given you a great starting point!
      Wolf
      "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
      "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
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      "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

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      • #18
        Yes it sounds promising! It’s a very in depth post above and I don’t understand all of it but hopefully we can work something out and I can build them shortly.. I’ll keep this thread up to date after speaking with him..

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        • #19
          After a few msg's from DeZZar i have decided to go with what he has recommended and see how they turn out. I appreciate everyone's input and knowledge regarding this and once completed i'll throw up some pic's and feedback for anyone interested. Thanks again..

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          • #20
            My personal pref. would be to have the tweeter at the top, unless your "seated ear height" is closer to 2 ft off the floor than 3 ft. (otherwise you might want some short stands under these - which is "why"?). A mid "box" can easily be made from an appropriately sized chunk of PVC pipe w/an endcap, stuffed.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
              My personal pref. would be to have the tweeter at the top, unless your "seated ear height" is closer to 2 ft off the floor than 3 ft. (otherwise you might want some short stands under these - which is "why"?). A mid "box" can easily be made from an appropriately sized chunk of PVC pipe w/an endcap, stuffed.

              I agree as it would just look better to me and i assumed it would be at the top as like you said it would be closer to ear level but DeZZar said "Why is the midrange at the top? Simpler cabinet design that gives an angled internal top to help with standing waves and it allows for tighter grouping of all the drivers. It also keeps the tweeter away from yet another edge aiding in reducing diffraction. It serves no other scientific purpose".

              I do not have enough knowledge to argue a point either way, and I'm unsure how much difference it would make..??

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              • #22
                Just realize whatever you build, you will be looking at them for some time.

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                • #23
                  The seeds of doubt have been planted..I will speak with DeZZar and ask for his input since he put the work in to come up with the design for me..Personally i would prefer the tweeter at the top but if it makes a significant sound difference i'll put them where they need to go..

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                  • #24
                    You can place the tweeter at the top, that's fine - the crossover will just need some tweaking with different diffraction issues to deal with. You'll also need to come up with a different way of housing the midrange in a ~2L enclosure of its own. Chris has a good suggestion with the PVC.

                    Preference in a tall cab like this is still to have an angled top internal panel so just need to factor that in too.

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                    • #25
                      These should look really cool: if I needed another pair of floor standing speakers I'd have a serious look at these as I have all the drivers except the RS100s.

                      Good luck with your project!

                      Geoff

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                      • #26
                        Thanks mate. I'm hoping they turn out ok..I'm thinking of finishing them in 2pac or using some tinted DuraTex sprayed on very fine..I'm just trying to use up whatever i can as i have way to much "stuff" just sitting around that i never used after purchasing..

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                        • Geoff Millar
                          Geoff Millar commented
                          Editing a comment
                          You might also consider making some speaker grilles: the DC160s are a little daggy looking, plus - more importantly - the DC28F is a real dust magnet. A grille will help keep off the dust and keep little fingers etc from having a poke.

                          Geoff

                      • #27
                        Good point and i agree with both statements. Those tweeters are definitely kid magnets and very easy to crush in..I had to vacuum a set out on the BR1's i built using them..I did consider pulling my "Blues" apart and using the tweeter from them as they are a nicer looking and i think better sounding, but then i would be left with yet another set of 6" drivers doing nothing..

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                        • Geoff Millar
                          Geoff Millar commented
                          Editing a comment
                          Swapping the tweeters may not have worked well, as you would have needed to change the crossover - so well left.
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