Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

66ish Admiral Radio RestoMod - Am I doing this right?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 66ish Admiral Radio RestoMod - Am I doing this right?

    Hey guys, thanks for letting me join the board!

    The other day my wife and I found this old Admiral radio at ReStore for $12! It doesn't work, so my plan is to put a small TV under the lid, an Apple TV, maybe an Xbox, replace the speakers, and hook it all up to an old Pioneer receiver I have lying around. Classic looks, modern gear. I was hoping you guys would be willing to give me some advice on making this sound decent. I'm poor but I'm handy, so doing this on a budget is much more important to me than perfect sound.

    These are the speakers I'm thinking of getting from this site;
    2x Goldwood GW-212/4 12" Woofer
    2x Visaton FR13-4 5" Speaker
    2x Visaton FR8TA 3.3" Speaker
    2x Goldwood GT-1025 3"x7" Horn

    Those would be direct replacements for the speakers that were in there. Is that a good plan? I'm a total dummy so I'm open to any input. Do I need the horns? I don't see them in many home audio systems anymore. My last question is crossover related. I was looking at what crossover I'd need and realized I was in way over my head so I'd love some advice there.

    Thank you for the help, and if you guys are interested I'll update this as it progresses.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    If I had this console, I would cut the crosses out of the woofer holes, buy or build a pair of 6" or so two way speakers, mount them behind the fascia, tilted up to point the tweeters to your listening position, and cover with some new vintage grill cloth from ebay. And refinish it.

    Electronics whatever you desire.

    Comment


    • #3
      Yeah, you're probably not going to get good results if you use all of those speakers, particularly if you don't know how to design a x-over.

      I'd suggest going for a simpler three-way arrangement (e.g. 10" + 3" + 1" dome, which means that you'd have to replace the existing baffle with a new one to hold the new drivers. Check the Parts Express projects page to see if there are any projects that use drivers of similar sizes - those should give you more ideas re which drivers to use.

      Good luck on your rebuild....!
      Brian Steele
      www.diysubwoofers.org

      Comment


      • #4
        I always forget, Wolf's Zingers would be perfect. These are a two way using an 8" DVC subwoofer. Inexpensive, kit available, truly full range. You would need to cut out most of the original baffles.

        My interpretation.

        Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0016.JPG Views:	0 Size:	55.5 KB ID:	1476416

        Comment


        • #5
          Sorry, this doesn't really apply to what you're doing, but I'm curious why that was built with the baffles/drivers in that orientation instead of a rotated version of the baffle (which looks like it should've fit and given more balanced horizontal dispersion).
          Click image for larger version

Name:	console thingy.jpg
Views:	137
Size:	139.1 KB
ID:	1476418
          My first 2way build

          Comment


          • djg
            djg commented
            Editing a comment
            Dude, it was the 60s.

          • LOUT
            LOUT commented
            Editing a comment
            I'm guessing you're at least partially joking (because I keep hearing examples of how old a lot of this information is), but nevermind the sideways M/m/T arrangement, even somebody who knows nothing about sound can probably guess which direction/orientation that horn will blast wide VS narrow.
            Then again, I don't know how much/little the horn shape/dispersion affects the very highest frequencies where wavelengths are super short, and I don't know how low that horn-tweeter is setup to play. Maybe that doesn't make much difference in some situations?

            Lol, I know juuust enough to be bothered by seeing it, but don't know enough to tell if it really makes a meaningful difference.

          • djg
            djg commented
            Editing a comment
            I'm thinking whoever designed this was a furniture designer, not a sound engineer. I remember these consoles (in general, not this specific one), the sound was ok, not stellar.

        • #6
          I agree with djg and others, install decent recent speakers like the Zingers, or build a kit. Unless you just want to learn speaker design. Like everybody is saying, those old baffles aren't very sensible. And crossover design has made grown men cry.
          Francis

          Comment


          • #7
            Originally posted by fpitas View Post
            And crossover design has made grown men cry.
            Learning to build his first XO on a budget-driver 4way, Colorado Daren isn't capable of tears. Too powerful for them to squeeze through.


            More seriously though, I feel like many of these consoles I've seen have wanted an 8ohm load. Double checking the required impedance might be a good first plan if it hasn't been done already.
            My first 2way build

            Comment


            • #8
              Originally posted by LOUT View Post
              Learning to build his first XO on a budget-driver 4way, Colorado Daren isn't capable of tears. Too powerful for them to squeeze through.
              Oh yeah. That's a terrible place to start.

              Francis

              Comment


              • LOUT
                LOUT commented
                Editing a comment
                For fun I grabbed traces for the drivers in the first post, just to see how they felt to sim with (not bothering with offsets and diffraction and off-axis response).
                The 12" seems to be doing odd things as if the .zma is wonky despite it appearing fine (adding resistance is lowering impedance in some narrow places even when the resistor is the only XO part), the 3.3" has low efficiency and low power-handling that limits most/any design to ~15watts or lower plus it has a narrow ~6db dip in the middle of its response where the driver is probably needed the most, and that Goldwood 1025 horn piezo starts with a ~15db V-shaped cut in the middle of its response (at least in their specs).
                At this point I pretty much hate 3/4 of these speakers, lol.

                I think the Zingers should reach lower (down near 30hz instead of the 40hz+ range) and at least a few db louder (not limited by a 10-15watt 3" midwoofer).

              • fpitas
                fpitas commented
                Editing a comment
                I respect working on a budget, but sometimes you can set yourself up for failure.

              • fpitas
                fpitas commented
                Editing a comment
                Having said that, some people here have achieved amazing results with very low-priced drivers. Pulling that off takes a lot of experience and talent, though.
            Working...
            X