Old or new?

[lasse]

Hi all,

Perhaps a unusual request for advice as the two alternatives are not very easily compared, but here it comes:

I am looking for a “new” power-amp to match my NAD 116 pre.
Today I am using my vintage Citation 12. Sounds OK but I would like to upgrade. I have two options:

1. A NAD 216 used unit in the same series as the pre. Closing in on 30 years with the normal recap coming up. A “old-school beast” with a expected total price tag of about 4000 Swedish crowns =400 USD

2. A brand new NAD C268 unit with a list price in Sweden of close to 1000 USD. Class D, good measurements:

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/f...-review.14287/

and a 3-year warranty.


Now, what do you think that I should do? Go for the new unit or the oldish and prepare for some soldering-time?

Best regards//lasse
Stockholm, Sweden

[PWR RYD]

I'd go with the old school NAD 216 and just recap it.

[dynamo]

I’d choose the 216.

I have owned two 2400thx and a 2600a. Good, warm, solid, old school high current sound. Currently I am using a hypex-based amp (like the c268 is) and it is just not the same. It is not as dark as the old school NADs but doesn’t pack the same punch either. I do like it however when the bottom end is biamped with a high current class ab amp (running a 2ch JBL Synthesis for this).

I think coming from an old school HK the c268 will be more transparent but you will be overall wanting more drive.

[ugly woofer]

+1 for the old school.

[lasse]

Hi,

OK thanks for the feedback.

I will follow your advice and aim for the NAD.

By the way, do you Think that a similar unit, like the H/K870, would be just as good?

Regards//lasse

[dynamo]

I’m not familiar with the 870 but in a very brief search it seems to be built on the same concept of the NAD units back in the day - gobs of current and big power reserve.

[craigk]

One thing to consider. There are lots of obsolete parts in an amp that old. If a transistor goes, you have a boat anchor. With a new amp you don't have to worry.

[lasse]

One thing to consider. There are lots of obsolete parts in an amp that old. If a transistor goes, you have a boat anchor. With a new amp you don't have to worry.

Hi,
Yes you make a very valid point, I think.

I bring up the H/K 870 because that is an example of me being a not so very lucky "recapper". I tend to get it right in the end but my 870 has up until today refused to go out of protection after my recap.

Perhaps I will be better off buying a new amp and hopefully never dig into it.

(I have recapped a number of other amps successfully, though....)

Regards//lasse

[JRT]

I noticed that your NAD 116 preamplifier includes balanced XLR output ports, so I would suggest locating monoblock amplifiers adjacent to the loudspeakers, use short loudspeaker cables and balanced interconnection to the preamplifier.

I would suggest buying two Audiophonics MPA-M400ET monoblock amplifiers, each of which uses one Purifi 1ET400A module (1x 400W into 4 Ohms, 200W into 8 Ohms), one Hypex SMPS600N400 power supply module, one Audiophonic interface module, etc. The input module accomodates a balanced XLR differential input or an RCA single ended input (switch selectable), has internal selectable gain settings including a selectable bypass, and a 12V trigger. It is assembled in France with power supply configured for 230VAC, but they can configure it for other voltages. Unlike some other competing products, these have a ventilated case. Although the class D amplifier and switch mode power supply are efficient, those still do produce some heat, and a ventilated case is useful in cooling.

Audiophonics currently have those priced at 749,00 €, tax included, each, plus shipping from France, direct sales. Note that as I write this, their website states that have only one monoblock remaining in inventory, and you will have to wait a few weeks for them to restock their inventory.

You can configure a small component box with a switch, a 12VDC input port, and several 12VDC output ports, in combination with a 12VDC wall wart or dongle power supply, to control on/off power to the monoblock amplifiers and any subwoofer amplifiers (if those likewise have 12VDC triggers).

[JRT]

And if you choose to DIY your own monoblock amplifier assembly, the Neurochrome buffer might be worthwhile.