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Has anyone seen a 3D printed model for flared port terminals?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by aarond View Post

    Interesting, you've got me thinking. I wonder if I can keep the original intent of my design by changing two things. Printing right side up... 1) At the point where the flare tangent exceeds 45 degrees build the inner surface out at 45 degrees similar to what you have shown 2) Make the part in two paces, limit the port to the terminal (eliminating the mounting ring), build the mounting ring separate. Integrate a step between the ring and port models to make assembling the two easy. If the ring is printed right side up then the only support material would be in the gasket channel (if I choose to keep it).
    This is the kind of thing I have done in the past, in this case to test a Goto/Polk style terminator:
    Attached Files

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    • #17
      Originally posted by aarond View Post

      Interesting, you've got me thinking. I wonder if I can keep the original intent of my design by changing two things. Printing right side up... 1) At the point where the flare tangent exceeds 45 degrees build the inner surface out at 45 degrees similar to what you have shown 2) Make the part in two paces, limit the port to the terminal (eliminating the mounting ring), build the mounting ring separate. Integrate a step between the ring and port models to make assembling the two easy. If the ring is printed right side up then the only support material would be in the gasket channel (if I choose to keep it).
      By the way, I did some similar experiments trying to use a lossy section at a node point to kill port resonance. I did it by placing an interchangeable plate at the middle of a 50cm folded port. Unfortunately, I found it killed port efficiency even quicker than it stopped the resonance. Might be a very different story for a shorter, wider port.
      Attached Files

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      • #18
        Originally posted by zx82net View Post
        This is the kind of thing I have done in the past, in this case to test a Goto/Polk style terminator:
        That's pretty close to what I had in mind. Any reason the the outemost portion of the port flare can't be integrated into the ring to reduce overall diameter somewhat?

        It looks like you built your internal surface out at closer to 30 degrees, have you noticed better results than building at 45 degrees?

        Is that granite PLA? I had some arrive today to make some pen and pencil holders for Christmas presents.
        Click image for larger version

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        Attached Files
        Thanks,
        Aaron

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        • #19
          Originally posted by aarond View Post

          That's pretty close to what I had in mind. Any reason the the outemost portion of the port flare can't be integrated into the ring to reduce overall diameter somewhat?

          It looks like you built your internal surface out at closer to 30 degrees, have you noticed better results than building at 45 degrees?

          Is that granite PLA? I had some arrive today to make some pen and pencil holders for Christmas presents.
          Click image for larger version

Name:	granite julius.jpg
Views:	38
Size:	495.5 KB
ID:	1479376
          I use a full 90 degree roll off, with the flare radius equal to the port radius. I generally work with small boxes and long ports, the kind of NFR levels used in the Harmon paper just aren't practical :-D

          My only reason for including the entire flare in the "port" part of the print was to keep the flare surface as smooth as possible without post processing. That was probably unnecessary, and certainly not the most efficient ratio of port diameter to baffle cut-out diameter.

          Yes, that is Eryone "marble" PLA. It prints well and it was on sale at one point, so I bought a load of it.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by aarond View Post

            That's pretty close to what I had in mind. Any reason the the outemost portion of the port flare can't be integrated into the ring to reduce overall diameter somewhat?

            It looks like you built your internal surface out at closer to 30 degrees, have you noticed better results than building at 45 degrees?

            Is that granite PLA? I had some arrive today to make some pen and pencil holders for Christmas presents.
            Click image for larger version  Name:	granite julius.jpg Views:	0 Size:	495.5 KB ID:	1479376
            Regarding the overhang angles, I tend to use something like 30~35 degrees if the design permits it. It gives less curling when printing at high speed and allows me to drop the fan speed a bit to benefit layer adhesion. It's certainly possible to go steeper.

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