Crossovers

[Chris Roemer]

When you say "2 tweeters", you mean 1 per cab, right?

Also, "X-Over Pro" can't be accurate 'cause it doesn't use FR and impedance files (.frd and .zma).

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Yes 1tweet per box. Also I'm using fibglass r13, how much should I put in each box, don't want to overdo it.

[billfitzmaurice]

None, home insulation glass isn't a good damping material. Polyfill is much better.

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Also I've been running these speakers uncrossed, just the woofers, trying to break the woofers in playing loud heavy rapp, I live in a mobile home, I turn it up,full volume,go outside, and the trailer is vibrating from the front all the way to the back, like a black dudes car!

[fpitas]

Living the dream

[Chris Roemer]

Here's my "stab" at an XO for your 3-way. It should have a "moderate" amount of baffle-step (around +3dB?).
Cross points are near 400Hz and 2.5kHz. Runs about 86dB.
HP - 2nd order w/an "L-pad" for attenuation: 6uF series cap, then a 0.50mH "shunt" coil (to ground - a #20 is fine here). "L" (series & parallel resistors): SR = 4n(ohms) / PR = 4n
BandPass (for 6") - also 2nd order w/"L": 0.50mH series coil, 68uF series cap (npe?), 3.0mH shunt coil (iron-core good here), 15uF shunt cap, L-pad: SR = 3n / PR = 2n
LP (woofer) - 2nd order: 6.0mH (iron core) series coil, and a 120uF npe shunt cap (to gnd).

A "solid" 4ohm design. Z-min maintains 4.0n @ 50Hz, 2nd lowest is 4.5n around 1.5kHz.

This SHOULD get you into the "tuning range". Had files for the woof & mid, and FRD was given for the (GR-supplied) tweeter. I simulated the .zma data from specs.

If the mid/tweets end up too quiet, there's plenty of room to "de-pad" them.

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Thanks man, we're gonna take a look at your design.

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Living the dream

Wait till I build my subwoofer, might break the windows lol.

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Here's my "stab" at an XO for your 3-way. It should have a "moderate" amount of baffle-step (around +3dB?).
Cross points are near 400Hz and 2.5kHz. Runs about 86dB.
HP - 2nd order w/an "L-pad" for attenuation: 6uF series cap, then a 0.50mH "shunt" coil (to ground - a #20 is fine here). "L" (series & parallel resistors): SR = 4n(ohms) / PR = 4n
BandPass (for 6") - also 2nd order w/"L": 0.50mH series coil, 68uF series cap (npe?), 3.0mH shunt coil (iron-core good here), 15uF shunt cap, L-pad: SR = 3n / PR = 2n
LP (woofer) - 2nd order: 6.0mH (iron core) series coil, and a 120uF npe shunt cap (to gnd).

A "solid" 4ohm design. Z-min maintains 4.0n @ 50Hz, 2nd lowest is 4.5n around 1.5kHz.

This SHOULD get you into the "tuning range". Had files for the woof & mid, and FRD was given for the (GR-supplied) tweeter. I simulated the .zma data from specs.

If the mid/tweets end up too quiet, there's plenty of room to "de-pad" them.

Also, I will be using a felt doughnut around the TWEETER.

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All drivers have been flush mounted.

[LOUT]

Do you have any pictures you can share as you're building?

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I can't seem to atach pics,tells me I have exeeeded max size, makes no sense, it's just 1 pic at a time.

[billfitzmaurice]

It means that the individual photos are too large. Scale them down.

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I will gladly share some pics, I don't think they look that bad really, think they turned out better than I thought they would, considering I'm not a pro carpenter 🪚 or cabinet builder, I'm just a lowly house painter,or was, disabled now.

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Can't seem to figure out how to scale down pics, so I can post em.

[billfitzmaurice]

I do it with the photo editing software on my PC.

[djg]

https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=pic...=v187-1&ia=web

[ernperkins]

The Windows Photo app will let you resize too.

[dlr]

Also, I will be using a felt doughnut around the TWEETER.

I recommend against using these.

https://www.speakerdesign.net/felt/f...vs_blocks.html

dlr

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Yeah, I don't have a computer, I have a Samsung Galaxy A32 5G