Kitchen Sub-Build thread

[lasse]

Hi all,

Some early thoughts…..

Please, see my initial RFI (Request For Information): (Sorry abt the formality, I´ve spent 40+ years buying stuff for the Swedish Navy……)

https://techtalk.parts-express.com/forum/tech-talk-forum/1480445-is-this-doable-a-sub-of-18-litres

I think that this has boiled down to a choice of one of three drivers depending on availability in Sweden/Germany:
Dayton DCS205-4 (F3 43 Hz, Vented) 85 EURO
Dayton RSS210HO-8 (F3 37 Hz, Vented) 190 EURO
Dayton UM8-22 (F3 41 Hz, Closed) 180 EURO

This might cause some heated arguments, but I think that most things speak for choosing a closed box when talking of a low-frequency speaker. Better “punch”??
BUT abt 120 USD higher price than the “standard driver” DCS205-4…….

Another thing. You see in my sketch (attached) that I have reserved a volume for the plate amp, that is a separate closed volume. Is this necessary? Do you do that when the amp looks like the one in the attached file? Exposing the electronics to extreme sound pressures, is that wise apart from the fact that the plate probably isn´t airtight?


Best regards//lasse
Stockholm, Sweden

[tomzarbo]

Lasse,

That plate amp looks similar to some of the 'Yung' amps that PE sells. They are designed to be air tight, but for the past several years, I've created sub-enclosures for them (usually out of 1/2" MDF) as you have designed. A small air leak can be difficult to find, and can whistle like crazy, (PE's 25 watt tiny plate amp often does this in my experience) and it's tough to troubleshoot.

Also, If the amp is isolated from the air pressure changes and vibrations (somewhat) inside the cabinet, I feel it will last longer, and any possible issues may take years longer to become actual issues.

TomZ

[lasse]

Lasse,

That plate amp looks similar to some of the 'Yung' amps that PE sells. They are designed to be air tight, but for the past several years, I've created sub-enclosures for them (usually out of 1/2" MDF) as you have designed. A small air leak can be difficult to find, and can whistle like crazy, (PE's 25 watt tiny plate amp often does this in my experience) and it's tough to troubleshoot.

Also, If the amp is isolated from the air pressure changes and vibrations (somewhat) inside the cabinet, I feel it will last longer, and any possible issues may take years longer to become actual issues.

TomZ

Hi and thanks for your feedback.

Then I will go for a separate enclosure for the amp.

I will order the components (driver and amp) today and will be back with final drawings and simulations.

Regards//lasse

[lasse]

Hi,

The "kit" is in the workshop.

Monacor SAM-200D
Dayton UM8-22
Lots of pieces of 22mm fiberboard

Will be back.

Regards//lasse

[Wolf]

Sealed 0.5ft^3 will work very well, moderately stuffed. You don't even have to go to 18ltrs, just build at 14-15 ltrs.
Three words of caution- 1- The UM8 has no extra Xmech. Xmech = Xmax, as the cone will slap the frame. 2- The Yung 200W plate is what I used on mine sealed, and it looks similar to the Monacor model there. If you can, use +3dB on the sub out to engage the auto-on circuit easier. 3- I could clip the 200W amp pretty easily, so I hope it is a 300W plate.

https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discus...#Comment_29532
Wolf

[lasse]

Sealed 0.5ft^3 will work very well, moderately stuffed. You don't even have to go to 18ltrs, just build at 14-15 ltrs.
Three words of caution- 1- The UM8 has no extra Xmech. Xmech = Xmax, as the cone will slap the frame. 2- The Yung 200W plate is what I used on mine sealed, and it looks similar to the Monacor model there. If you can, use +3dB on the sub out to engage the auto-on circuit easier. 3- I could clip the 200W amp pretty easily, so I hope it is a 300W plate.

https://diy.midwestaudio.club/discus...#Comment_29532
Wolf

Hi Wolf,

Thanks for your feedback.

Actually, I was searching for a much less powerful plate-amp but this is what can be purchased in Sweden (for some reason)

Remember, this is my kitchen-setup. Some low-level music in the morning and when making dinner. so the power will never approach the max-level.

The driver choise was for coping with the max-power of the amp and I decided to go for a sealed alignment.

I tested the on/off function with "raw" components and the "on" will come after abt 5 seconds. The "off" in 15 minutes.

Best regards//lasse
Stockholm, Sweden

[lasse]

Hi,

just a picture of the "Top-plate"

It looks like the units will fit, and the handles will be useful when lifting the sub into place high up!!

Regards//lasse
Stockholm, Sweden

[lasse]

Now, this is starting to look like a sub.....

[djg]

That should stir up your Special K.

[tomzarbo]

Looks nice, but the sub looks like a 5" driver next to those handles!

You've got my kitchen sound system beat!

TomZ

[lasse]

Hi all,

A few pictures from my sub-building endeavour….

First you can see the main box in present stage.

Then I show the “test-platform” for sealing of the rough edges and the intended painting-scheme:

• Four layers of white wood-glue (only on the “raw” edges)
• Two layers of stop-primer
• Two layers of white paint

Then I (re)learned a lesson: A T-nut do not work very well in this application with fibre boards. I have known this for abt 50 years and obviously forgotten about it for the last 50 years. I have used MDF in “modern times” and in that, the T-nuts work but in fibre boards, they tend to fall off.
Well, I will have to mount the driver and then glue the “baffle” in place - Risky? Well, it shouldn´t be a problem.

Regards//lasse
Stockholm, Sweden

[lasse]

The unit is in Test-and-Tweak mode....

But it seems tor work OK

Regards//lasse
Stockholm, Sweden

[lasse]

Just an update on pre-installing testing.

The unit in service with the "kitchen amp" and a pair of small test speakers.

Will install in the kitchen tonight.

Regards//lasse