Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Enclosure Size for RSS315HF-4 12 & SPA250

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Enclosure Size for RSS315HF-4 12 & SPA250

    Friends, I am having a difficult time figuring out what volume and type to make a subwoofer enclosure for a RSS315HF-4 12 and a SPA250 plate amp.

    I've aged a bit and am running on one brain cell and my input/output is lagging.

    I like many kinds of music, Funk, RnB, I like cRap music but hate the words, Rock, Popular, Country, metal.

    I plan on making it in Spring time but for now I will be collecting Intel for the best design.

    I actually have a well made 2.218 cu. ft. enclosure. It's configurations does not have room for a 4in. port inside but I am not completely against an external port if that enclosure can work for my equipment.

    Parts Express suggested a 0.71 cu. ft. sealed enclosure (which sounds small to me), this is barely enough room for the driver.

    Please give me information to help me proceed.
    Sincerely, Me

  • #2
    My suggestion:

    https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton...ckage-300-7022

    Francis

    Comment


    • Xsserpxestrapx
      Xsserpxestrapx commented
      Editing a comment
      Francis, the box that I mentioned that I have from another build is the same size. Besides, I can save a lot making it myself and have a better box.

  • #3
    PE has 10" and 12" sub kits with two passive radiators using the larger 500 watt dsp plate amp. One long time forum member recently built the 10" and was very pleased. I have two 8" kits using the 250 watt amp. It is very versatile, I recommend it especially for 2.1 systems where you can run pre out to the sub and loop back to main in on your amp.

    Comment


    • #4
      A basic decision is sealed vs reflex. I like sealed best for music, but if you need to dig deep for home theater, or power a large room, reflex (include passive radiator here) has advantages.
      Francis

      Comment


      • #5
        If you can fit a 4" port that's 20" long into your box (using elbows), you should end up near 2 cu.ft. net, w/an F3 near 30Hz and an output around 110dB (OUCH!).

        That's w/the 250 unboosted. W/boost, you'd want to go about half that size, and closed.

        Comment


        • Xsserpxestrapx
          Xsserpxestrapx commented
          Editing a comment
          Doesn't the port volume reduces the box volume? 20" of 4" tube is a lot of volume.

          The box that I mentioned above had a 1 ft. - 4" external port

      • #6
        Here is a question, with the RSS315HF-4 12 and the SPA 250 in a 2.218 cu. ft. box what length of 4" port would be best?

        Comment


        • #7
          Would you rather make something new or modify what you have?

          Comment


          • Xsserpxestrapx
            Xsserpxestrapx commented
            Editing a comment
            I am trying to figure out which is best, if this box has the right volume or more then I will use it, if more volume is better then I will build another box.

        • #8
          Originally posted by Xsserpxestrapx View Post
          Here is a question, with the RSS315HF-4 12 and the SPA 250 in a 2.218 cu. ft. box what length of 4" port would be best?
          Depends what tuning frequency you are targeting. @ 26Hz it'll take all of the 250Watts on offer with an f3 around 26Hz. For this you need a 19.57" port.

          But I'd run with what Chris Roemer offered up. Put that port inside, it takes up ~0.15ft^3, yielding essentially the same result without the need for a subwoofer with giant tube sticking out of it.

          Comment


          • Xsserpxestrapx
            Xsserpxestrapx commented
            Editing a comment
            26Hz is 'Awesome Paste', I am not too interested in SPL(Lie) because I live in an old folks apartment village and cannot blast without a frontal assault from a brigade of Karen's (that I love and care for).

            I have overcome this volume inadequacy by positioning the sub driver right next my cranium input orifice (ear).

            You know, I will not be doing this until Spring and today I am starting to thinking that I don't want to change this box. It has sentimental appeal, I made it in '07 for a Cerwin Vega XL-12S that I still have but it needs a new surround kit.

            I am going to put a creepy copper wire weave design on it and put the Cerwin Vega back into it and then give it away.

        • #9

          Comment


          • #10
            This what it looks like now, but I am not done with the finish, it needs to be smooth out and polished

            Comment


            • #11
              Maybe get some bass shakers for your seat. The neighbors won't hear that..

              Also, if you're getting rid of the pictured sub, and you can't turn the bass up, you might be very happy with the PE 8" Dayton 250DSP sub kit. I have two of them, one for my PC 2.1, and one for my LXmini 2.1 system.

              https://www.parts-express.com/Powere...n-DSP-300-7150

              Comment


              • #12
                Build thread. Notice I added wood blocks at each woofer screw position. IMO, they need some added thickness.

                https://techtalk.parts-express.com/f...386714-new-2-1

                Comment


                • #13
                  Do we ALL have more of those Harbor Freight flashlights lying around the house than we can shake a stick at?

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X