Thoughts on this combo - BZ Tweeter and Dayton Epique

[jml]

Sanded down 120, 180, 220, 320, 400. It only took about 30 minutes altogether and was WELL worth the extra effort.

The hardwood and veneer match even better now, but they still clearly have 2 different materials. I am debating about doing the black aluminum top plate I was planning vs topping it with more hardwood. I’m afraid the black might be too much… a 2 tone speaker is cool a 3 tone speaker feels a bit busy.

cheers!

Joe

[jml]

I decided to go with maple for the tops and bottoms as well. I’ll sand and stain them up tomorrow, and then they’ll be ready for finish coat.

Cheers!

Joe

[AEIOU]

You should have done this. I'm surprised that Mr. Wolf didn't tell you.

[jml]

It's not easily visible in the photos, but I did round over all the internal edges on the MDF; however, I did not go nearly as aggressive as these samples - mine is more an example A situation. I think I'm too far into the project to start over now HAHA!

[a4eaudio]

If you decide that you really want to do something still, use a rasp. It would be tedious but it will work.

[jml]

If you decide that you really want to do something still, use a rasp. It would be tedious but it will work.

This could be achieved with an undercut router bit as well... funny enough, if you google undercut router bit, this definition comes up... shockingly accurate for this scenario HAHA!

"Slot and undercut router bits, otherwise known as "Oops" bits are used to undercut a part that is attached to another part. Typically this machining operation would be done before installation with the surface to be machined facing up. If it's too late and the part is already attached - 'Oops!'"

With that said, I do not plan to remove additional material from the inner baffle.

Cheers!

Joe ​

[DrewsBrews]

I've used an inverted cone type slotting bit for this purpose, since I don't have a dovetail bit. I just extended the shank down more than usual, using the shank as the bearing surface. Though start to run out of shank for much more than 3/4" material. Probably not the best/safest idea, but it has worked so far.

[jml]

I've used an inverted cone type slotting bit for this purpose, since I don't have a dovetail bit. I just extended the shank down more than usual, using the shank as the bearing surface. Though start to run out of shank for much more than 3/4" material. Probably not the best/safest idea, but it has worked so far.

That’s a smart solution. I looked to see if they made an undercut 45 degree bevel bit with a top bearing, and I was surprised to see that it doesn’t look like they do.

[davidroberts]

That’s a smart solution. I looked to see if they made an undercut 45 degree bevel bit with a top bearing, and I was surprised to see that it doesn’t look like they do.

A top bearing can be added to any bit with a substantial shaft length. Check https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/ and I bet you can find something.

[a4eaudio]

... otherwise known as "Oops" ...​

That is pretty hilarious.

That’s a smart solution. I looked to see if they made an undercut 45 degree bevel bit with a top bearing, and I was surprised to see that it doesn’t look like they do.

I was going to mention that Javad Shadzi had some custom chamfer bits made just for this purpose many years ago and had posted some extras for sale in the PETT classifieds, but I didn't get one.

A top bearing can be added to any bit with a substantial shaft length. Check https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/ and I bet you can find something.

Thanks for posting this. I did a quick Google search and see several things pop up so I bet I can make this work if I need to. I have needed to in the past (when I didn't have this solution) but have tried to plan ahead better on more recent builds.

[Wolf]

I bought one of those bits. The only reason masses call them oops bits is they don't see the reason it was done after. Sometimes order of operation dictates that this has to be done after the assembly so you don't blow through an edge or thinner material. Sometimes you can't cut driver rebates until after the cabinet is assembled.
Wolf

[jml]

Below are a few photos with the tops finished. I used a Watco wax as a topcoat. The photo of the back of the speaker is after 2 coats. The product is super easy to use and leaves a really nice matte finish.

next I’ll be on to installing drivers and the Dayton outriggers.

cheers!

joe

[a4eaudio]

next I’ll be on to installing drivers and the Dayton outriggers.

Yes, the cabinets and wood look nice, but we all want to see some DRIVERS in these boxes!!

[jml]

Here they are with drivers installed… well one of them anyway!

Cheers!

Joe

[jml]

In preparation for taking measurements for this build, I decided to take a reference measurement from my current speakers - a very well regarded commercial floorstanding speaker. I was surprised to see the significant drop off after 10khz. Is this surprising to anyone else, or am I perhaps doing something wrong in my measurement setup?

Cheers!

Joe