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Hot Glue for Crossover Components

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  • #16
    I'm curious what kind of measuring equipment? Calibrated? Your resistance readings are all .2 to .4 high. Did you compensate for lead resistance? What kind of leads? Alligator clips or probes? And your inductance readings are all way off in the same direction. Suspicious. As I say, just curious.

    Comment


    • zinger084
      zinger084 commented
      Editing a comment
      I was using a multimeter with LCR capaciblites. I did not, and do not know how, to compensate for lead resistance. I was using standard probing/point leads.

    • djg
      djg commented
      Editing a comment
      To compensate for lead resistance, short the leads and read the resistance. Subtract that from the component reading. My Flukes read .2 ohms when shorted, and that's really pushing the probes together hard. Try it.

    • zinger084
      zinger084 commented
      Editing a comment
      I got a zero reading, so not sure what’s up. Ended up buying a DATS this morning. Appears to be worth every penny.

  • #17
    Originally posted by zinger084 View Post
    sharing the tolerances here for everyone's use... 14 of the 24 are outside their range.
    Never seen coils measure that far off before.

    I have a couple of spare Jantzen air cores right here and this is how they measure:
    Spec Measured
    mH ohm mH ohm % Var
    0.82 0.27 0.84 0.27 2.44%
    0.84 0.26 2.44%
    0.15 0.15 0.154 0.155 2.67%
    0.157 0.156 4.67%

    The larger variance 0.15mh is easily impacted by where you move the loose end of the connecting lead at this value.
    Constructions: Dayton+SB 2-Way v1 | Dayton+SB 2-Way v2 | Fabios (SB Monitors)
    Refurbs: KLH 2 | Rega Ela Mk1

    Comment


    • #18
      Interesting. I was using a standard multimeter with LCR function to measure, but it sounds like some of these components may not register well on that meter.

      Any specific suggestions on measuring equipment for LCR would be greatly appreciated!

      Comment


      • fpitas
        fpitas commented
        Editing a comment
        DATS can measure Ls, Cs and Rs.

      • djg
        djg commented
        Editing a comment
        I'll assume your LCR meter is "consumer grade", not lab equipment. I wouldn't start snipping coils off your foil inductor based on an uncalibrated consumer grade LCR meter reading.

      • DeZZar
        DeZZar commented
        Editing a comment
        I use a DATS unit: https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton...System-390-807

    • #19
      zinger084 so how do they sound?
      Constructions: Dayton+SB 2-Way v1 | Dayton+SB 2-Way v2 | Fabios (SB Monitors)
      Refurbs: KLH 2 | Rega Ela Mk1

      Comment


      • zinger084
        zinger084 commented
        Editing a comment
        I should have them hooked up today. I got an iMM-6 mic for some simple measurements but don’t know the best software so the “how do they sound” will be very subjective. Looking for the best software now…

      • fpitas
        fpitas commented
        Editing a comment
        If your experience is like mine (and many others) you're in for a lot of voicing until you're real happy. Measurements get you close and help find annoying peaks etc., but in the end little tweaks that you can barely measure make the difference from a good speaker to a great speaker.

    • #20
      Originally posted by zinger084 View Post
      ... but don’t know the best software so the “how do they sound” will be very subjective. Looking for the best software now…
      REW (Room EQ Wizard), HOLMImpulse or ARTA are your best choices.

      Constructions: Dayton+SB 2-Way v1 | Dayton+SB 2-Way v2 | Fabios (SB Monitors)
      Refurbs: KLH 2 | Rega Ela Mk1

      Comment


      • #21
        Hot glue is fine, there’s different types available with wildly different holding strength so keep that in mind. As well, it does soften/melt at a rather low temperature so will let go of your resistors way before they are anywhere near their power limit.

        what I would recommend is to use hot glue just to tack parts in place, use “Goop” adhesive for permenant installation. Goop is silicone like adhesive, remains rubbery and very strong stuff, and still can be peeled off if needed with a bit of effort. Tie down where needed , use your own judgement on what is good enough.

        I'm not deaf, I'm just not listening!

        Comment


        • #22
          I think they are missing the low end (a lot). I’m going to let them play for a day at medium to medium high power and report back after.

          Comment


          • fpitas
            fpitas commented
            Editing a comment
            Try that first. Going by your SIMs you might need a dB or two more BSC, depending on your room and how you placed them. In my experience BSC can be pretty critical.

        • #23
          not to leave some of you hanging, but these are starting to break in a little more. as i expected, the bass is deeper in the corners of the room (im in a finished basement). the floors are mostly hard with some carpet, ceilings are ACT, walls are reasonably bare right now, and little furniture (still in the works to complete). i know from car audio design when this room is filled, i may get some gain, but i'm still not happy with the bass response sitting in front, about 3M away, with these towers flanking both sides of a 75 sony. i'm working on getting my laptop soundcard calibrated, and seeing if i need a preamp like the following...
          https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Sca...87&sr=8-2&th=1

          still researching and learning... like climbing a cliff (there is no curve here... ha!)

          Comment


          • #24
            Check the simple/ and sometimes not so obvious.

            (1) Change the polarity of the speaker wire connections ON ONE SPEAKER ONLY at the amp end. Sound should get worse, and sound like it's coming mostly from the side.

            (2) Use a 1.5v battery to check the woofer polarity.

            (3) Audition one speaker at a time placed straight ahead of your seat.

            (4) Move your seat 2 feet tor more, and compare.

            (5) Check the tone control, and ,or surround settings to make sure you are listening to unprocessed stereo, and not some auditorium setting, or previously stored EQ settings.

            (6) Make sure speakers are not set to small.

            Comment


            • zinger084
              zinger084 commented
              Editing a comment
              1. I did this and honestly my son and I both think it's correct as originally wired. When I reversed it on one speaker, it sounded pretty flat and I lost bass response (expected).

              2. Tell me more. Do I pull the woofer out and disconnect leads and check both on the same side + (battery and speaker) to make sure the cone travels the same way? Never done this before.

              3. I'll get to this.

              4. Yes, the bass response is different in many areas of the room. I can say that I think the dead center seating location isn't that great.

              5. Yes, I have placed my Aventage on pure direct. When I add processing, I can somewhat get close to the sound I want. They have been breaking in a little better now...

              6. They are not - and I checked this before (still thanks for bringing this one up).

          • #25
            Originally posted by rpb View Post
            Check the simple/ and sometimes not so obvious.

            (1) Change the polarity of the speaker wire connections ON ONE SPEAKER ONLY at the amp end. Sound should get worse, and sound like it's coming mostly from the side.

            (2) Use a 1.5v battery to check the woofer polarity.

            (3) Audition one speaker at a time placed straight ahead of your seat.

            (4) Move your seat 2 feet tor more, and compare.

            (5) Check the tone control, and ,or surround settings to make sure you are listening to unprocessed stereo, and not some auditorium setting, or previously stored EQ settings.

            (6) Make sure speakers are not set to small.
            Just put 1.5 volts to the speaker at the binding posts, and observe which way the woofer moves. They should move in the same direction.

            Comment


            • zinger084
              zinger084 commented
              Editing a comment
              I assume this won’t affect the tweeter?

            • Wolf
              Wolf commented
              Editing a comment
              Nope, tweeter is highpassed.

          • #26
            When i use glue on xovers, it's E6000.
            Wolf
            "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
            "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
            "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
            "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

            *InDIYana event website*

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            My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
            http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

            Comment

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