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Hot Glue for Crossover Components

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  • Wolf
    replied
    When i use glue on xovers, it's E6000.
    Wolf

    Leave a comment:


  • Wolf
    commented on 's reply
    Nope, tweeter is highpassed.

  • zinger084
    commented on 's reply
    I assume this won’t affect the tweeter?

  • rpb
    replied
    Originally posted by rpb View Post
    Check the simple/ and sometimes not so obvious.

    (1) Change the polarity of the speaker wire connections ON ONE SPEAKER ONLY at the amp end. Sound should get worse, and sound like it's coming mostly from the side.

    (2) Use a 1.5v battery to check the woofer polarity.

    (3) Audition one speaker at a time placed straight ahead of your seat.

    (4) Move your seat 2 feet tor more, and compare.

    (5) Check the tone control, and ,or surround settings to make sure you are listening to unprocessed stereo, and not some auditorium setting, or previously stored EQ settings.

    (6) Make sure speakers are not set to small.
    Just put 1.5 volts to the speaker at the binding posts, and observe which way the woofer moves. They should move in the same direction.

    Leave a comment:


  • zinger084
    commented on 's reply
    1. I did this and honestly my son and I both think it's correct as originally wired. When I reversed it on one speaker, it sounded pretty flat and I lost bass response (expected).

    2. Tell me more. Do I pull the woofer out and disconnect leads and check both on the same side + (battery and speaker) to make sure the cone travels the same way? Never done this before.

    3. I'll get to this.

    4. Yes, the bass response is different in many areas of the room. I can say that I think the dead center seating location isn't that great.

    5. Yes, I have placed my Aventage on pure direct. When I add processing, I can somewhat get close to the sound I want. They have been breaking in a little better now...

    6. They are not - and I checked this before (still thanks for bringing this one up).

  • zinger084
    commented on 's reply
    I got a zero reading, so not sure what’s up. Ended up buying a DATS this morning. Appears to be worth every penny.

  • rpb
    replied
    Check the simple/ and sometimes not so obvious.

    (1) Change the polarity of the speaker wire connections ON ONE SPEAKER ONLY at the amp end. Sound should get worse, and sound like it's coming mostly from the side.

    (2) Use a 1.5v battery to check the woofer polarity.

    (3) Audition one speaker at a time placed straight ahead of your seat.

    (4) Move your seat 2 feet tor more, and compare.

    (5) Check the tone control, and ,or surround settings to make sure you are listening to unprocessed stereo, and not some auditorium setting, or previously stored EQ settings.

    (6) Make sure speakers are not set to small.

    Leave a comment:


  • zinger084
    replied
    not to leave some of you hanging, but these are starting to break in a little more. as i expected, the bass is deeper in the corners of the room (im in a finished basement). the floors are mostly hard with some carpet, ceilings are ACT, walls are reasonably bare right now, and little furniture (still in the works to complete). i know from car audio design when this room is filled, i may get some gain, but i'm still not happy with the bass response sitting in front, about 3M away, with these towers flanking both sides of a 75 sony. i'm working on getting my laptop soundcard calibrated, and seeing if i need a preamp like the following...
    https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Sca...87&sr=8-2&th=1

    still researching and learning... like climbing a cliff (there is no curve here... ha!)

    Leave a comment:


  • fpitas
    commented on 's reply
    Try that first. Going by your SIMs you might need a dB or two more BSC, depending on your room and how you placed them. In my experience BSC can be pretty critical.

  • zinger084
    replied
    I think they are missing the low end (a lot). I’m going to let them play for a day at medium to medium high power and report back after.

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  • dcibel
    replied
    Hot glue is fine, there’s different types available with wildly different holding strength so keep that in mind. As well, it does soften/melt at a rather low temperature so will let go of your resistors way before they are anywhere near their power limit.

    what I would recommend is to use hot glue just to tack parts in place, use “Goop” adhesive for permenant installation. Goop is silicone like adhesive, remains rubbery and very strong stuff, and still can be peeled off if needed with a bit of effort. Tie down where needed , use your own judgement on what is good enough.

    Leave a comment:


  • DeZZar
    replied
    Originally posted by zinger084 View Post
    ... but don’t know the best software so the “how do they sound” will be very subjective. Looking for the best software now…
    REW (Room EQ Wizard), HOLMImpulse or ARTA are your best choices.

    Leave a comment:


  • fpitas
    commented on 's reply
    If your experience is like mine (and many others) you're in for a lot of voicing until you're real happy. Measurements get you close and help find annoying peaks etc., but in the end little tweaks that you can barely measure make the difference from a good speaker to a great speaker.

  • zinger084
    commented on 's reply
    I should have them hooked up today. I got an iMM-6 mic for some simple measurements but don’t know the best software so the “how do they sound” will be very subjective. Looking for the best software now…

  • DeZZar
    replied
    zinger084 so how do they sound?

    Leave a comment:

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