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New refurb project - Rega Ela Mk1

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  • squib
    replied
    Ahh. I wasn't sure of the cavity volume from the earlier photos. That last pic underscores why you are considering some aesthetic improvements . Good luck with these. I'm looking forward to learning how well the new sub gets along with Regas.

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  • Colonel7
    commented on 's reply
    You do amazing work and design. Love seeing your build threads. Brilliant find on the Elas too. Never see anything for sale like that around here. Lots of home theater in box and peop!e wanting unreal prices for anything old or vintage regardless of working condition.

  • DeZZar
    replied
    Originally posted by squib View Post
    ..suggested the open pole caused cavity resonances. Not sure if your Royd mid-bass drivers would suffer the same issues within their passband. You could try some batting/stuffing in there if you want to maintain some venting.
    I don't know if there is much of a cavity to speak of - the pole piece is solid.
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    I don't think there will be any harm in adding a breathable dust cap to them and it'll stop any nasties getting in again!
    Last edited by DeZZar; 07-26-2022, 08:49 AM.

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  • DeZZar
    replied
    Some more progress tonight - finished cutting all the grooves for the baffle

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    Woofer test fit...

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    Last edited by DeZZar; 07-26-2022, 09:16 AM.

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  • squib
    replied
    Great progress! Have you read through the "How to train your PM180 thread"? jbruner's measurements on that driver suggested the open pole caused cavity resonances. Not sure if your Royd mid-bass drivers would suffer the same issues within their passband. You could try some batting/stuffing in there if you want to maintain some venting.

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  • DeZZar
    replied
    In the meantime I was also debating whether or not to do something about the look of the little Royd driver. The pinkish paper cone and missing dust cap aren't really a look I'm into.

    And the fact that there is no dust cap is ironically in and off itself, over time, evidence as to why its called a dust cap in the first place.....they were full of dust....

    I wanted to see if I could make some dust caps. I wanted them to be breathable to ensure any ventilation requirements were not adversely affected (there is no vent to the pole piece on these).

    So just as an experiment I 3D printed a mould of the dust cap shape I thought would work best and then soaked some cotton fill from a dust mask filter in a little watered down wood glue, then massaged it over the mould and clamped it together until it dried (wood glue wont stick to PLA plastic)

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    Pay no attention to the quality of the outcome here, it was just a proof of concept to see if it would work and it did. So I will take a little more care and make a few more in black. Perhaps once some black dust caps are in place the whole driver will look a lot better - otherwise I was thinking about tinting the cone black as well.

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    Also grabbed a few sets of these spikes off ebay. Wasn't sure what sort of quality I would end up with but I am happy to say I'm impressed. They will look a lot better than the sharpened bolt they essentially came with.
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  • DeZZar
    replied
    Now onto the replica box for the bass module.

    Settled on a design using the Dayton Epique E180HE-44 woofer and the SPA250 DSP amp. In around 20L net tuned to low 30's we'll get a low 30's f3 - a nice compliment to the Ela's performance.


    Starting the glue up here and leaving it so one side is off to start with - once its all together the loose side will allow some final port tuning before it gets sealed up permanently.
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    Rear compartment for the amp - sealed off from the rest of the box.
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    Here at the bottom the port will terminate into the base of the speaker but there will be vents to the rear (as shown) and the sides once it's all done.
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    3D printed flare to suit some PVC pipe I have laying around that's the perfect size for the port.

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    Driver cutout wraps up the basics of the baffle and now I need to set about replicating the ribs in the baffle. Just setting up a test piece here - ran out of time tonight to actually make all the cuts but its ready to go tomorrow.
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  • DeZZar
    replied
    The plastic coating on these came off really easily so I've stripped it off top/bottom/sides and back.

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    And then prepared the rear surface a little as the chipboard constructions joins here and I want to take extra care to make sure it wont show through the final veneer. A layer of backing veneer will go down first followed by the real stuff.

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    The bottoms of the baffle have been beat up a little so I will router out this bottom section and replace it before re-painting them.
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    Both boxes stripped back, prepared for veneer, sanded and ready for the next steps. I'll throw some paint stripper on the baffles and then repair them before veneering and re-painting.

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  • DeZZar
    replied
    Just posting an update on this little project - its been a while and have finally gotten the chance to come back to this one.

    Starting with the teardown....the drivers are actually glued in - not like epoxy or anything - but strong enough that these are never coming out based on normal poking and prying.

    The woofer has an odd little threaded hole in its face plate. You need to thread a bolt into this hole as far as you can and then using the bolt carefully lever the drivers up. The glue will finally give way (and/or some of the MDF as it was in my case) and you can pry up the drivers until you can get a decent grip on them and pull them out.

    After the woofer you could push on the back of the tweeter but I found it easier to use the same method, threading a bolt into one of the mounting holes and gently prying it up.

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    Drivers, crossovers, terminal plates and stickers all removed....here on the woofers you can see the odd little extra hole....

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  • DeZZar
    replied
    Reading some reviews and listening to the previous owner of these it seems people are sad to see their ELA's go but eventually upgrade/change not because they really want to but because of the limited bass extension. In my mind, adding a good sub and tuning it right would have been a solution but I guess it does just get to that point where you've had them for so long you end up going for a complete change.

    Conceptually I'm aiming to put together something like this as a matching 2.1 solution. Keeping everything great about the ELA itself and upgrade where we can, but add in a matching bass module to fill in the missing 30-60Hz.

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    Working up a design at the moment using a single Epique E180 in around 18-20L tuned to somewhere between 32-25Hz for an f3 @ 31hz matched up to a 250W DSP plate amp. This will be capable of taking a full 220W for content down to 28Hz (so full music range). This'll give us 106db before we take away baffle step and add back room gain. Won't be an SPL king at all, but this is about stereo music listening (not HT), and matching up to the ELA's and I believe a single E180 should be plenty to keep up with them!

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  • DeZZar
    replied
    It's not often that something this classic/unique shows up around here either. That's why I jumped on these. Much the same....often just nasty cheap box speakers.

    Originally posted by johnnyrichards View Post
    . What is the distance from the floor to the tweeter? They may have deliberately tuned it a little hot due to seated position vs tweeter height.
    It's about 30inches. The baffle is at an 8.5degree tilt backwards. I took these measurements level at tweeter axis rather than perpendicular to the baffle. I'll take a set of vertical axis measurements before I strip them down.

    The tweeter is about as bright as you would expect from these measurements. It literally sounds just 1-2db too much...but purely from a balance perspective....it never comes across in an unpleasant way which is why they may have opted to leave it alone instead of introducing resistors. (It likely also helps flatten the power response like this).

    I'll experiment bringing the tweeter down a touch. It also depends on the series resistance on the woofers could. Although iron core it's very thin gauge so I'll see if there is a chance to reduce the resistance.
    Last edited by DeZZar; 02-19-2022, 12:15 AM.

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  • johnnyrichards
    replied
    The only thing that ever turns up around here are Fluance, cheap Klipsch, white van stuff, and crappy 80's Pioneer/Jensen/KLH/Fisher/Technics monkey coffins. Kind of sad, and I suspect one of the reasons I have trouble finding people interested in high-end, smaller speakers. To make matters worse, these guys still think a 5/8" particle board, vinyl wrapped, no braces, cap on small cone mid and cap on cone tweet, 15" woofer with 1.2 Qts, garbage is worth $100. The cabinets are never even worth repurposing, either. I did find a pair of 8" 2-way Realistic speakers at a rummage sale for $30 one day. Had a trashed 10" passive radiator but were otherwise free of chipping, the veneer was decent. Even had a single brace. Measured well enough for what it was. Still have the cabinets, they are worth repurposing.

    Nice find! I'm sure you will be able to do some magic with the treble balance but otherwise it looks like the original designer did a pretty decent job. What is the distance from the floor to the tweeter? They may have deliberately tuned it a little hot due to seated position vs tweeter height.

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  • DeZZar
    replied
    Originally posted by squib View Post
    Are you planning to veneer the cabs and keep the baffles, as-is?
    absolutely, I think this is what gives them such a unique look. will replicate it for the bass module a well!

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  • squib
    replied
    Originally posted by fatmarley View Post
    A lot of Royd speakers didn't have dustcaps. I assume it was for sound quality reasons.
    ​​​​​​Watching with interest...
    Maybe the darker color along the inner rim of the woofer cone is from some kind of doping they added to reinforce the edge. I'm curious about the front baffle design with the ridges and valleys. Are you planning to veneer the cabs and keep the baffles, as-is?

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  • fatmarley
    replied
    A lot of Royd speakers didn't have dustcaps. I assume it was for sound quality reasons.
    ​​​​​​Watching with interest...

    Leave a comment:

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