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New refurb project - Rega Ela Mk1

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  • DeZZar
    commented on 's reply
    These look really good mate! Nice job. You've progressed a bit further than I have!

  • randyohoh
    replied
    Madisound has Scanspeak tweeters 2008-8511 for $75.70 & 2008-8512 for $83.40. Both of these look very similar to the ones in your cabinets including having 3 mounting holes which is somewhat unusual. They are listed as "classic" which means older models.

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  • rhunt
    replied
    Originally posted by DeZZar View Post

    Hey, that's fantastic - thanks for sharing!

    What are you planning to do with yours?
    I am doing a cosmetic restoration. They came with black vinyl that was practically falling off. I am redoing every panel in red oak wood vaneer.

    After listening to the speakers there's a lot to like, but I do wish they were tuned to have stronger bass. After EQing them to do so they sound really good to my ears.



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  • Gehano52
    replied
    Thank you very much.. Very detailed answer. I have asked the German importer, if he has original tweeter in stocks, if not maybe replacing with the 2008 from scan speak, 🤔😁👍Gerhard

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  • DeZZar
    replied
    Originally posted by Gehano52 View Post
    Hi, I am very interested in your project rega ela. I have this speaker since 25 years. I want to change the tweeter and maybe upgrade the crossover. Have you replaced the parts of the crossover? What coils did you use? The tweeter is an scan speak 2008?
    Hi Gerhard, thanks I cant wait to finish this project - I just have too many happening at once at the moment!

    The tweeter is definitely a scanspeak unit - the one in mine specifically states "D2008/7203 REGA - made by Scan-Speak A/S" which I believe is a specific version of the D2008 for Rega. If you had to simply replace them I would say from what I can see the rega's measure very similarly to what you would expect from the current D2008/851200 - note that this is the 'hand coated' version of the D2008. The rega version is definitely coated.

    It is my understanding that a refined version of the D2008 is available from Hiquphon, the OW1-92. And if the internet is to be believed it is apparently designed by the same person that designed the original D2008 for scan-speak.

    On paper the Hiquphon would be an excellent upgrade as it is MUCH smoother in its response. I'm tempted but also have to consider that GBP to AUD at the moment makes a pair of these tweeters $500+shipping which will overcapitalize on this upgrade significantly!

    Here's the original crossover:
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    It's wonderfully simple. The inductors are:
    0.302 @ 0.245ohm
    0.592 @ 0.22ohm

    If I don't end up changing any values (I probably won't at this point) then I will replace the woofer coil with a SOLEN, either the 0.56 @ 0.15ohm OR unwind a little of their 0.68 @ 0.17ohm to get down to a 0.6 coil. The slight improvement in DCR will only benefit the ELA's

    The other 0.3 on the tweeter I will just replace with a Jantzen 18AWG air core or perhaps a Jantzen Litz Wax Coil.

    The capacitor I will likely replace with a Jantzen Superior Z-Cap (3.3uf)

    Hopefully be able to jump back onto this project very soon!
    ​
    ​

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  • Gehano52
    replied
    Hi, I am very interested in your project rega ela. I have this speaker since 25 years. I want to change the tweeter and maybe upgrade the crossover. Have you replaced the parts of the crossover? What coils did you use? The tweeter is an scan speak 2008?

    Can't wait to see updates at you project
    Gerhard

    Leave a comment:


  • DeZZar
    replied
    Originally posted by rhunt View Post
    I am also in the process of restoring some either MK1.25 or MK1.5 Rega ELA's. The man I bought them from purchased them new in 1994 and gave me all the material that came with them including a savant audio review, a sales brochure, and a manual.
    Hey, that's fantastic - thanks for sharing!

    What are you planning to do with yours?

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  • rhunt
    replied
    So glad you made this thread DeZZar

    I am also in the process of restoring some either MK1.25 or MK1.5 Rega ELA's. The man I bought them from purchased them new in 1994 and gave me all the material that came with them including a savant audio review, a sales brochure, and a manual.



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  • squib
    replied
    Ahh. I wasn't sure of the cavity volume from the earlier photos. That last pic underscores why you are considering some aesthetic improvements . Good luck with these. I'm looking forward to learning how well the new sub gets along with Regas.

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  • Colonel7
    commented on 's reply
    You do amazing work and design. Love seeing your build threads. Brilliant find on the Elas too. Never see anything for sale like that around here. Lots of home theater in box and peop!e wanting unreal prices for anything old or vintage regardless of working condition.

  • DeZZar
    replied
    Originally posted by squib View Post
    ..suggested the open pole caused cavity resonances. Not sure if your Royd mid-bass drivers would suffer the same issues within their passband. You could try some batting/stuffing in there if you want to maintain some venting.
    I don't know if there is much of a cavity to speak of - the pole piece is solid.
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    I don't think there will be any harm in adding a breathable dust cap to them and it'll stop any nasties getting in again!
    Last edited by DeZZar; 07-26-2022, 08:49 AM.

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  • DeZZar
    replied
    Some more progress tonight - finished cutting all the grooves for the baffle

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    Woofer test fit...

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    Last edited by DeZZar; 07-26-2022, 09:16 AM.

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  • squib
    replied
    Great progress! Have you read through the "How to train your PM180 thread"? jbruner's measurements on that driver suggested the open pole caused cavity resonances. Not sure if your Royd mid-bass drivers would suffer the same issues within their passband. You could try some batting/stuffing in there if you want to maintain some venting.

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  • DeZZar
    replied
    In the meantime I was also debating whether or not to do something about the look of the little Royd driver. The pinkish paper cone and missing dust cap aren't really a look I'm into.

    And the fact that there is no dust cap is ironically in and off itself, over time, evidence as to why its called a dust cap in the first place.....they were full of dust....

    I wanted to see if I could make some dust caps. I wanted them to be breathable to ensure any ventilation requirements were not adversely affected (there is no vent to the pole piece on these).

    So just as an experiment I 3D printed a mould of the dust cap shape I thought would work best and then soaked some cotton fill from a dust mask filter in a little watered down wood glue, then massaged it over the mould and clamped it together until it dried (wood glue wont stick to PLA plastic)

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    Pay no attention to the quality of the outcome here, it was just a proof of concept to see if it would work and it did. So I will take a little more care and make a few more in black. Perhaps once some black dust caps are in place the whole driver will look a lot better - otherwise I was thinking about tinting the cone black as well.

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    Also grabbed a few sets of these spikes off ebay. Wasn't sure what sort of quality I would end up with but I am happy to say I'm impressed. They will look a lot better than the sharpened bolt they essentially came with.
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  • DeZZar
    replied
    Now onto the replica box for the bass module.

    Settled on a design using the Dayton Epique E180HE-44 woofer and the SPA250 DSP amp. In around 20L net tuned to low 30's we'll get a low 30's f3 - a nice compliment to the Ela's performance.


    Starting the glue up here and leaving it so one side is off to start with - once its all together the loose side will allow some final port tuning before it gets sealed up permanently.
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    Rear compartment for the amp - sealed off from the rest of the box.
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    Here at the bottom the port will terminate into the base of the speaker but there will be vents to the rear (as shown) and the sides once it's all done.
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    3D printed flare to suit some PVC pipe I have laying around that's the perfect size for the port.

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    Driver cutout wraps up the basics of the baffle and now I need to set about replicating the ribs in the baffle. Just setting up a test piece here - ran out of time tonight to actually make all the cuts but its ready to go tomorrow.
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