BUILD - "Not what I wanted, but it's what I'm getting" 80's Inspired SHARP mini

[3rutu5]

This is basically a test project for the much bigger one, if I can get all my printers working.

I'll post some other info later but at the moment it's going to run 2*DMA45S and 1 3.5 peerless passive. The system looks to model better with a significant reduction of overall enclosure volume.

I'm still working out all the electronics kinks, but.do you think I could desolder this pot and extend it and if so, would I need all 8 pins or would some of these be for support to hold it to the PCB.

I'm also keen to add some 2-3v LED Bulbs but not sure if I'd need a few resistor's or if you can run them in series. Basically looking to use it as my on light but fill out where the radio frequency display would have been and maybe the tape deck.

I might have to install 2 batteries, one for the amp and one for the light's so it doesn't drain the one too fast....keen to know thoughts as I'm a little green in the diy electronics space.

It's meant to be a fun project and low powered to easily charge off a standard USB c phone one. The matt black filament looks better in real life than the photo is showing, but hoping I don't need to do post processing apart from gluing on the attachments

[3rutu5]

Slow slow slow...the body is almost done, then I've designed the rest to click in like Lego and it can be glued

[3rutu5]

Starting to come together. I hoping with the electronics going in I can get the internal volume down by half.

Printing.grills, dials, buttons, cassette deck this morning, which unfortunately will be dumb entities and glued in. I was hoping for a working volume dial but not the case as I don't know if I can desolder from the cheap amp the current one and I don't think I can fit the LBB board in to make this 12v. In saying that i remember tomzarbo did this on his 2.1 PE amp, but think he left his existing Pot there. I think a working volume dial would be pretty cool as well, Maybe if i can get that working ill make this into a 7.6-8v setup and use a buck converter for the USB-C breakout. Dont really want to use 12v as the amp is a 2x50w and even half of that will shred the little 1.5 inch drivers

The passives been kept in a dusty box, so need to clean it of course.

[3rutu5]

I had a go hooking up a linear dual gang pot I had sitting there, think it's a 50 or 100k. I destroyed one of these boards trying to get the pot off, I think I took the metal connector off the power part. Crap thing is I need the original pot to be slightly on as it is an on off one, I don't know if I can solder a spst switch to the back two connectors shown in the photo to do it
can anyone see an issue with this?

[3rutu5]

Ignore the white, it's blue tack to hold some parts in place before I glue

[3rutu5]

Reckon? Guess I won't be posting on it anymore

Or remove the logo, which sucks as I wanted something to show my appreciation of the era

[djg]

Just joking.

[3rutu5]

made me think for a second djg, I always wonder if somebody would do it for the sake of it. If i can find a similar font style i might call it BLUNT for a joke

[Steve Lee]

Looking SHARP!

:D

You have some mad skills . . .

[3rutu5]

Looking SHARP!

:D

You have some mad skills . . .

Well played sir. Just hope it sounds half decent.... hopefully in a few months I'll have.the big printer going and cam do.the same but twice the size with some decent hardware

[3rutu5]

Not sure how j fsdl about the thick clear,ish filament...I tried a led behind it and it's ok, but not sure yet.....

Hopefully the pot works out once installed as well, I just need to make sure I hot glue over my solder so it doesn't work it's way free. Would have been great to have reused the existing one but breaking a board doesn't give me many more options as I have one more left after this one.

[lunchmoney]

I admire your confidence in printing all of those standing circular holes without any supports. I always want to do the same, but I worry that that tops of the holes will end up a bit raggedy.... so I print them with supports beyond 60 degrees. The prints take a lot longer, but the results are really clean.

Did it take a lot to dial in your printer such that you don't need to worry about said supports?

[3rutu5]

I find on the delta printer that sometimes it can print on air (or close to). I've been trying to design and print smarter and incorporate small overhangs which the arcs seem to work the best, or 45 deg chamfers (but uses more filament. That phantom inspired one was my first attempt support less and I didn't really change anything on the slicer or do anything differently.

That being said, I forgot to use supports here and was surprised how good it turned out

[3rutu5]

Not sure i know the answer to this, but would something so small benefit in a BSC?

[3rutu5]

any old school ghettoblaster fans here? if so, any idea what make/model this one is?

[djg]

Nike maybe?

[3rutu5]

A faux blaster you reckon? Just thought as design's go this one would be easier to print in pieces and glue due to all the physical breaks.

The bigger version was telling me it was a 6 day print, which scares me.

[tomzarbo]

Project is looking good.
Did your piggyback wiring work?

I tried that before... ruined one board... and successfully desoldered and rewired extension leads to another. But, I had noise on the one I extended and didn't use it. Are the two extra leads for a switch? If so you could switch it another way and just use the six stereo leads.

The solder suckered tube desolderers seem to do a good job... but man, it's easy to bugger up a board if not careful.

TomZ

[3rutu5]

Project is looking good.
Did your piggyback wiring work?

I tried that before... ruined one board... and successfully desoldered and rewired extension leads to another. But, I had noise on the one I extended and didn't use it. Are the two extra leads for a switch? If so you could switch it another way and just use the six stereo leads.

The solder suckered tube desolderers seem to do a good job... but man, it's easy to bugger up a board if not careful.

TomZ

I ran it, but have to slightly turn the existing knob. I must admit I only tried the switch on the destroyed board, I have a switch on the back of the project for the overall power, so maybe I could hook it up, but I guess I would run the problem of sending more power to it, than it might be taking currently. Might put a multi to it and see.

I'm trying to work out the led in parallel.thing and probably getting a bit silly about it and the internals.are running out of space quickly to put things.

It's been a fun little project, my wife came in the other day and told me it "looked cute" and I thought better bin that, should be "tough" haha..

[3rutu5]

Project is looking good.
Did your piggyback wiring work?

I tried that before... ruined one board... and successfully desoldered and rewired extension leads to another. But, I had noise on the one I extended and didn't use it. Are the two extra leads for a switch? If so you could switch it another way and just use the six stereo leads.

The solder suckered tube desolderers seem to do a good job... but man, it's easy to bugger up a board if not careful.

TomZ

great advice, i went back just before and soldered a switch onto it and it works. Hopefully now i can wire up the USB-C breakout, to a TP4057 BMS, then to the buck converter. but just before the buck ill put a spst switch there so it will never be more that 4 volts.

reading a little more, i think i need to swap my double gang linear pot and it sounds like half way on the dial isnt the same as half way on the volume, which i didnt know about.