i bought an audio one, plus have some sure/wondom pots on a PCB with plugs, that i was thinking i could try figure out which pin was what and try that.
printing my 18650 mount and plate for the amp to sit on....ill tell you one thing, space is quickly becoming a premium.
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BUILD - "Not what I wanted, but it's what I'm getting" 80's Inspired SHARP mini
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Originally posted by 3rutu5 View Post
great advice, i went back just before and soldered a switch onto it and it works. Hopefully now i can wire up the USB-C breakout, to a TP4057 BMS, then to the buck converter. but just before the buck ill put a spst switch there so it will never be more that 4 volts.
reading a little more, i think i need to swap my double gang linear pot and it sounds like half way on the dial isnt the same as half way on the volume, which i didnt know about.
Others can explain this better, but you're right, a linear taper pot can go from quiet to loud in an annoyingly small amount of pot travel.
TomZ
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Originally posted by tomzarbo View PostProject is looking good.
Did your piggyback wiring work?
I tried that before... ruined one board... and successfully desoldered and rewired extension leads to another. But, I had noise on the one I extended and didn't use it. Are the two extra leads for a switch? If so you could switch it another way and just use the six stereo leads.
The solder suckered tube desolderers seem to do a good job... but man, it's easy to bugger up a board if not careful.
TomZ
reading a little more, i think i need to swap my double gang linear pot and it sounds like half way on the dial isnt the same as half way on the volume, which i didnt know about.
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Originally posted by tomzarbo View PostProject is looking good.
Did your piggyback wiring work?
I tried that before... ruined one board... and successfully desoldered and rewired extension leads to another. But, I had noise on the one I extended and didn't use it. Are the two extra leads for a switch? If so you could switch it another way and just use the six stereo leads.
The solder suckered tube desolderers seem to do a good job... but man, it's easy to bugger up a board if not careful.
TomZ
I'm trying to work out the led in parallel.thing and probably getting a bit silly about it and the internals.are running out of space quickly to put things.
It's been a fun little project, my wife came in the other day and told me it "looked cute" and I thought better bin that, should be "tough" haha..
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Project is looking good.
Did your piggyback wiring work?
I tried that before... ruined one board... and successfully desoldered and rewired extension leads to another. But, I had noise on the one I extended and didn't use it. Are the two extra leads for a switch? If so you could switch it another way and just use the six stereo leads.
The solder suckered tube desolderers seem to do a good job... but man, it's easy to bugger up a board if not careful.
TomZ
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Not sure i know the answer to this, but would something so small benefit in a BSC?
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I find on the delta printer that sometimes it can print on air (or close to). I've been trying to design and print smarter and incorporate small overhangs which the arcs seem to work the best, or 45 deg chamfers (but uses more filament. That phantom inspired one was my first attempt support less and I didn't really change anything on the slicer or do anything differently.
That being said, I forgot to use supports here and was surprised how good it turned out
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I admire your confidence in printing all of those standing circular holes without any supports. I always want to do the same, but I worry that that tops of the holes will end up a bit raggedy.... so I print them with supports beyond 60 degrees. The prints take a lot longer, but the results are really clean.
Did it take a lot to dial in your printer such that you don't need to worry about said supports?
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