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BUILD - "Not what I wanted, but it's what I'm getting" 80's Inspired SHARP mini

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  • 3rutu5
    replied
    i bought an audio one, plus have some sure/wondom pots on a PCB with plugs, that i was thinking i could try figure out which pin was what and try that.

    printing my 18650 mount and plate for the amp to sit on....ill tell you one thing, space is quickly becoming a premium.

    Leave a comment:


  • tomzarbo
    replied
    Originally posted by 3rutu5 View Post

    great advice, i went back just before and soldered a switch onto it and it works. Hopefully now i can wire up the USB-C breakout, to a TP4057 BMS, then to the buck converter. but just before the buck ill put a spst switch there so it will never be more that 4 volts.

    reading a little more, i think i need to swap my double gang linear pot and it sounds like half way on the dial isnt the same as half way on the volume, which i didnt know about.
    Yeah, I think the ones we like to use in audio are 'A' taper, or audio taper pots, which do not increase pass-through the same way, but in a way that our "ears" find more linear.
    Others can explain this better, but you're right, a linear taper pot can go from quiet to loud in an annoyingly small amount of pot travel.

    TomZ

    Leave a comment:


  • 3rutu5
    replied
    Originally posted by tomzarbo View Post
    Project is looking good.
    Did your piggyback wiring work?

    I tried that before... ruined one board... and successfully desoldered and rewired extension leads to another. But, I had noise on the one I extended and didn't use it. Are the two extra leads for a switch? If so you could switch it another way and just use the six stereo leads.

    The solder suckered tube desolderers seem to do a good job... but man, it's easy to bugger up a board if not careful.

    TomZ
    great advice, i went back just before and soldered a switch onto it and it works. Hopefully now i can wire up the USB-C breakout, to a TP4057 BMS, then to the buck converter. but just before the buck ill put a spst switch there so it will never be more that 4 volts.

    reading a little more, i think i need to swap my double gang linear pot and it sounds like half way on the dial isnt the same as half way on the volume, which i didnt know about.

    Leave a comment:


  • 3rutu5
    replied
    Originally posted by tomzarbo View Post
    Project is looking good.
    Did your piggyback wiring work?

    I tried that before... ruined one board... and successfully desoldered and rewired extension leads to another. But, I had noise on the one I extended and didn't use it. Are the two extra leads for a switch? If so you could switch it another way and just use the six stereo leads.

    The solder suckered tube desolderers seem to do a good job... but man, it's easy to bugger up a board if not careful.

    TomZ
    I ran it, but have to slightly turn the existing knob. I must admit I only tried the switch on the destroyed board, I have a switch on the back of the project for the overall power, so maybe I could hook it up, but I guess I would run the problem of sending more power to it, than it might be taking currently. Might put a multi to it and see.

    I'm trying to work out the led in parallel.thing and probably getting a bit silly about it and the internals.are running out of space quickly to put things.

    It's been a fun little project, my wife came in the other day and told me it "looked cute" and I thought better bin that, should be "tough" haha..

    Leave a comment:


  • 3rutu5
    commented on 's reply
    A faux blaster you reckon? Just thought as design's go this one would be easier to print in pieces and glue due to all the physical breaks.

    The bigger version was telling me it was a 6 day print, which scares me.

  • djg
    commented on 's reply
    Nike maybe?

  • tomzarbo
    replied
    Project is looking good.
    Did your piggyback wiring work?

    I tried that before... ruined one board... and successfully desoldered and rewired extension leads to another. But, I had noise on the one I extended and didn't use it. Are the two extra leads for a switch? If so you could switch it another way and just use the six stereo leads.

    The solder suckered tube desolderers seem to do a good job... but man, it's easy to bugger up a board if not careful.

    TomZ

    Leave a comment:


  • 3rutu5
    replied
    any old school ghettoblaster fans here? if so, any idea what make/model this one is?
    Attached Files

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  • 3rutu5
    commented on 's reply
    made me think for a second djg, I always wonder if somebody would do it for the sake of it. If i can find a similar font style i might call it BLUNT for a joke

  • 3rutu5
    replied
    Not sure i know the answer to this, but would something so small benefit in a BSC?

    Leave a comment:


  • djg
    commented on 's reply
    Just joking.

  • 3rutu5
    replied
    I find on the delta printer that sometimes it can print on air (or close to). I've been trying to design and print smarter and incorporate small overhangs which the arcs seem to work the best, or 45 deg chamfers (but uses more filament. That phantom inspired one was my first attempt support less and I didn't really change anything on the slicer or do anything differently.

    That being said, I forgot to use supports here and was surprised how good it turned out
    Attached Files

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  • 3rutu5
    commented on 's reply
    Reckon? Guess I won't be posting on it anymore

    Or remove the logo, which sucks as I wanted something to show my appreciation of the era

  • djg
    commented on 's reply
    They may sue you.

  • lunchmoney
    replied
    I admire your confidence in printing all of those standing circular holes without any supports. I always want to do the same, but I worry that that tops of the holes will end up a bit raggedy.... so I print them with supports beyond 60 degrees. The prints take a lot longer, but the results are really clean.

    Did it take a lot to dial in your printer such that you don't need to worry about said supports?

    Leave a comment:

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