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advice for woofer/cabinet for new 3 way system
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I have my mid and tweet in house. I dont have my enclosure as it is still in design. I want to make measurements for frd on a temp baffle. How close dose it have to be in size to the final one?
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I have my mid and tweet in house. I dont have my enclosure as it is still in design. I want to make measurements for frd on a temp baffle. How close dose it have to be in size to the final one?
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Originally posted by Chris Roemer View PostAll I can find is the 34NrxL75-8. A fine woofer, I'm sure.
The suggestion is for 3cf ported, using a 4"id x 10" long port. Lower 30s are realized.
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All I can find is the 34NrxL75-8. A fine woofer, I'm sure.
The suggestion is for 3cf ported, using a 4"id x 10" long port. Lower 30s are realized.
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A lot of the drivers people have been suggesting are either sold out or no longer available (MOR) So I have found a suitable woofer, kind of expensive lol SB34RX75-8. Is this decent? Does it compare favorably to the Peerless? Also I will model this to see if it works better in a sealed or vented cabinet. If I go vented I am thinking 3 inch port?
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If I was building another big 3way today I’d be looking very closely at ScanSpeak 26W/4534G00 or 26W/8534G00.
https://hificompass.com/en/speakers/...ak-26w/4534g00
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As Chris said, if a port chuffs it's a lot more audible on the front. As well, midrange inevitably comes out the port. That may or may not be loud enough to be audible, but rear or bottom mounting helps attenuate it a lot.
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IF a (undersized?) port is going to chuff, I'd rather it NOT be pointing in my direction. That's all.
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just curious what is the reason for port location. I usually locate on rear panel but is there a reason not to put on front other than aesthetics?
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Originally posted by Chris Roemer View PostPassive radiator (alternative way to tune a box besides a port tube).
For a 10" sub, I like 4" PVC, but a 3" "Precision Port" (which would be shorter) about 10" long should be okay. I'd aim it out the back (or bottom) if possible.
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Passive radiator (alternative way to tune a box besides a port tube).
For a 10" sub, I like 4" PVC, but a 3" "Precision Port" (which would be shorter) about 10" long should be okay. I'd aim it out the back (or bottom) if possible.
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Originally posted by Chris Roemer View PostWinISD does NOT bear that out (someone made an error there, I think). F6 MAYbe?
But you'd really need a PR 'cause a (3" - which is probably too small) port would be very long.
Now, 2.0cf is a different story.
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WinISD does NOT bear that out (someone made an error there, I think). F6 MAYbe?
But you'd really need a PR 'cause a (3" - which is probably too small) port would be very long.
Now, 2.0cf is a different story.
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