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  • #31
    Originally posted by JRT View Post

    Jeff, you are missed, and sadly you aren't here to bump your old thread.

    In this current discussion of midrange drivers, Jeff Bagby's review of the ATC SM75-150S 3" dome midrange driver came to mind. The link to a pdf of the review is in the quoted post above.
    It's tough to read endless reviews of the ATC midrange, and know that you likely cannot get one. I would like to make a big three way, but I want to use THAT atc driver, not something else :(

    Comment


    • donc
      donc commented
      Editing a comment
      found a pair in Canada new in box 1880.00

    • JRT
      JRT commented
      Editing a comment
      Not the ATC SM75-150S, but there is a new pair of SM75-150 (non-S) listed for sale at canukaudiomart for (CAD)$1880. For that many Loonies, you could buy a new pair of KEF LS50 Meta and cannibalize those for the coaxials, or just add bass-bins under suitably modified units. Those KEF coaxials might be the better choice for a domestic application not needing the high maximum SPL output or increased signal voltage sensitivity.
      Last edited by JRT; 05-19-2022, 06:35 PM.

    • a4eaudio
      a4eaudio commented
      Editing a comment
      These things are popping up everywhere. A pair posted on Diyaudio.com (non-S version) today for ONLY AUD$1,300 (USD 915) + shipping from Australia. Of course you could build a 5 channel system with PM180-8s and have $250 leftover

  • #32
    buy the PM180's ,cut some slits in the cone, can't go wrong
    donc

    Comment


    • #33
      found a pair of the ATC's in Canada ,$1880.00 a pair ,new in box from a dealer .
      donc

      Comment


      • jimbones
        jimbones commented
        Editing a comment
        too rich for my blood lol. One thing about the mid priced drivers it allows you to experiment without going broke.

    • #34
      Apparently a 3.3” midrange is coming from Scan-Speak.

      D8404/552000

      was at Troel’s website before shortly taken down?

      You know you’re an influencer when you get early access/samples and everyone gets excited.

      bye bye wallet.

      Comment


    • #35
      Originally posted by donc View Post
      i dont remember Jeff liking the AE TD6M , seems like there was a hard to work with dip or something ,others found the TD6M to have it also .he chose the Dayton PM180 over it on a design for me ,case by case could apply .the ATC dome he did like , its just hard to come by .seems like its available from the guys in Canada every once in a while .they have one that looks like the ATC but its made by Volt .its expensive as is the ATC ,not sure about performance .
      donc
      You can dial in your baffle width to fill the TD6m dip nicely.

      Comment


      • #36
        I ran a SIM with the H1304 and 27TAC and results were really nice. My only concern is when I marry this combo to a 12 in woofer will I be better off with the H1304 or H1217 (larger dia)? (note XO at 250hz)

        Comment


        • #37
          The CA Prestige drivers are older tech and have breakup that needs addressed. A lot of times, the xover has to be pretty low to help manage this. How far is the breakup suppressed in your Sim? As long as it is 1800 or higher, the tweeter won't care.

          Wolf
          "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
          "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
          "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
          "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

          *InDIYana event website*

          Photobucket pages:
          https://app.photobucket.com/u/wolf_teeth_speaker

          My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
          http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

          Comment


          • #38
            Originally posted by Wolf View Post
            The CA Prestige drivers are older tech and have breakup that needs addressed. A lot of times, the xover has to be pretty low to help manage this. How far is the breakup suppressed in your Sim? As long as it is 1800 or higher, the tweeter won't care.

            Wolf
            This is using 27TAC H1304 and BP102.
            Attached Files

            Comment


            • #39
              Question, are those traced manufacturer's curves, and if they are, did you adapt them to your proposed baffle and placements?
              What I'm seeing looks like it was way too easy.

              EDIT: I see now it's the 4.5". I thought you had the 5.25". Breakup will be higher in freq and better manageable, but Sd is small and mating to a 10/12 might prove taxing on a driver that small at that frequency. 400-500 would be better for a 4.5". If you want 250Hz, go to the 5.25".

              I still think the xover looks way too easy.

              Hope this helps,
              Wolf
              "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
              "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
              "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
              "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

              *InDIYana event website*

              Photobucket pages:
              https://app.photobucket.com/u/wolf_teeth_speaker

              My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
              http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

              Comment


              • #40
                Wolf yes thats the smaller version. I am attaching the next larger one (H1262) Correct that is traced. I am using 2nd order XO. If you think I should move to the next larger dia (H1217 7inch) or even the Tymphany driver 830991 let me know
                Attached Files
                Last edited by jimbones; 05-20-2022, 04:39 PM. Reason: adding snapshot

                Comment


                • #41
                  Your sim is not indicative without adapting the files to the baffle design. I feel the files need to be adapted to your baffle, then simulated. This is a wash....
                  Yes you'll need the larger midbass.
                  Wolf
                  "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
                  "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
                  "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
                  "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

                  *InDIYana event website*

                  Photobucket pages:
                  https://app.photobucket.com/u/wolf_teeth_speaker

                  My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
                  http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

                  Comment


                  • #42
                    Originally posted by Wolf View Post
                    Your sim is not indicative without adapting the files to the baffle design. I feel the files need to be adapted to your baffle, then simulated. This is a wash....
                    Yes you'll need the larger midbass.
                    Wolf
                    OK Ill use a larger mid. In the meantime I dont own the drivers yet so I cant measure them (I have DATS) I dont believe XSim will allow me to account for the baffle in the program so I have to use another program, is that correct? Apologize for all the questions as I am still a grasshopper lol.

                    Comment


                    • #43
                      RM can do it.
                      Wolf
                      "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
                      "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
                      "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
                      "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

                      *InDIYana event website*

                      Photobucket pages:
                      https://app.photobucket.com/u/wolf_teeth_speaker

                      My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
                      http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

                      Comment


                      • #44
                        Originally posted by jimbones View Post
                        I've decided that I want to try the best sounding midrange I can find.
                        Originally posted by jimbones View Post
                        One thing about the mid priced drivers it allows you to experiment without going broke.
                        Originally posted by PWR RYD View Post
                        Don't rule out the Dayton PM180 drivers. They don't do bass but sound fantastic as a midrange IMHO.
                        Originally posted by donc View Post
                        buy the PM180's ,cut some slits in the cone, can't go wrong
                        PM180 with DIY slit-cone modification and wooden plug seems like a good suggestion in this, maybe in combination with a tweeter using one of Brandon's 3D printed waveguides.

                        Here is a link to the slit-cone modification thread:
                        https://techtalk.parts-express.com/f...n-your-pm180-8

                        Here is a link to PE's marketing webpage for the PM180 driver:
                        https://techtalk.parts-express.com/f...n-your-pm180-8

                        Here is a link to the 3D printed waveguide thread:

                        https://techtalk.parts-express.com/f...ed-waveguides/



                        Last edited by JRT; 05-21-2022, 07:23 AM.
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                        • #45
                          Originally posted by Wolf View Post
                          RM can do it.
                          Wolf
                          GAAA!! Another acronym!! What the...Lol!

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