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Music lives in the midrange
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Dude, you know your way around measurements and specs. IIRC, the most incredible finding was that a 40 year old JBL was equal to the best 10 inch driver built today.
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I only tested harmonic distortion, which I know is not the be-all-end-all. The Beyma 10MC700Nd came out as my favorite (note I didn't say "best") IMO, based on my testing & needs and it had the price tag to match. There is a ferrite version that appears to have similar performance for a whole lot less (10MCB700), and I was informed that the B&C 10NW76 has even less distortion than the Beyma, but I don't have that one. But yea, it depends on what you want it to do. Want top-end extension? Then the 18 Sound 10NDA610 is the one you want. Etc, etc, etc. My needs will not necessarily match everyone else's.
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guitar maestro ,of all those 8's / 10's you were testing ,which one would you recommend and why ?
donc
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Any love for the pro-audio mids? For some reason I'm more drawn to those. Not that I've built anything recently, my only project is a back-burner project, but pro-audio mids just seem more robust and with good measurements. I am particularly drawn to mids from 18 Sound, B&C, and Beyma.
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Paul Carmody has an excellent write up on how to do simulated measurements: https://sites.google.com/site/undefi...d-measurements
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Originally posted by tktran View PostApparently a 3.3” midrange is coming from Scan-Speak.
D8404/552000
was at Troel’s website before shortly taken down?
You know you’re an influencer when you get early access/samples and everyone gets excited.
bye bye wallet.
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Jeff Bagby's Response Modeler (Excel based) is available at http://audio.claub.net/software/jbabgy/jbagby.html and VituixCAD can also do it.
There are two threads on Diyaudio.com that might be useful. Introduction to designing crossovers without measurement which is a sticky there. And So you want to design your own speaker from scratch! (Which I just saw is also now a sticky)
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Originally posted by jimbones View PostI've decided that I want to try the best sounding midrange I can find.Originally posted by jimbones View PostOne thing about the mid priced drivers it allows you to experiment without going broke.Originally posted by PWR RYD View PostDon't rule out the Dayton PM180 drivers. They don't do bass but sound fantastic as a midrange IMHO.Originally posted by donc View Postbuy the PM180's ,cut some slits in the cone, can't go wrong
Here is a link to the slit-cone modification thread:
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/f...n-your-pm180-8
Here is a link to PE's marketing webpage for the PM180 driver:
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/f...n-your-pm180-8
Here is a link to the 3D printed waveguide thread:
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/f...ed-waveguides/
Last edited by JRT; 05-21-2022, 07:23 AM.
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Originally posted by Wolf View PostYour sim is not indicative without adapting the files to the baffle design. I feel the files need to be adapted to your baffle, then simulated. This is a wash....
Yes you'll need the larger midbass.
Wolf
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Your sim is not indicative without adapting the files to the baffle design. I feel the files need to be adapted to your baffle, then simulated. This is a wash....
Yes you'll need the larger midbass.
Wolf
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Wolf yes thats the smaller version. I am attaching the next larger one (H1262) Correct that is traced. I am using 2nd order XO. If you think I should move to the next larger dia (H1217 7inch) or even the Tymphany driver 830991 let me know
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