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  • #1

    Advice needed - 3d printed mini sharp

    Hi all, as i fixed one of my printers and got some motivation once again i started redo'ing a little project i was keen to finish, which made me wonder when modelling a small driver\PR combo, what would the masses think is the "best" outcome from the below 3 WINISD graphs? The only difference is the added mass to the cone and i've gone a different passive radiator to the original purely because its a pain to model properly.

    So 2x DMA45-8's, with a ND90-PR in a combined enclosure of approximately 0.02cuft.

    scenario 1 - zero added weight F3 low 90's
    scenario 2 - 3 grams added weight F3 low 80's
    scenario 3 - 7 grams added weight F3 lot 70's

    I'm not quite sure how the end result will turn out as they are small drivers and if they can even move something of that size, but would seem to think that scenario 1 would provide the best outcome purely as it would be higher DB's albeit not getting to the lows of the other 2 and would be less liking to distort if pushed, BUT afraid it could sound thin.. If i kept the peerless 3.5 inch PR F3 would be slightly lower again than scenario 3, but they all have those ski ramps (except scenario 1)

    I also do have a BSC for this based on the previous recommendations in the other thread, but keen to know what other more experienced people think.

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  • #2
    Also found something at the parents a old tape from a.dictaphone
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    • #3
      I'm likin' no added mass, in this case.

      Comment

      • #4
        Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
        I'm likin' no added mass, in this case.
        Thanks Chris, I was thinking the same.

        Was trying to assemble everything in, it was extremely fiddly and I couldn't fit the bsc/inductors in so decided to redesign and print in 2 parts but slightly smaller to fit on my printer face down.....made sure on paper I could fit all my parts in this time and then it hit me....I thought I've taken a volume before but not sure I really did... Even in the reduced size I have 0.032cuft which is 0.012cuft larger than what I modelled above... hopefully all the internals I have remove a chunk of the volume as I liked that intial graph, new one introduces a dip

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        • #5
          Nice little driver. I'm using one in a 0.2l enclosure with a ND65-PR, tuned to allow crossover to a sub at 130Hz. Required about 1.5g of added mass.

          I'm using it as a replacement for the TEBM28C10, which seems to have been discontinued.


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          • #6
            Originally posted by zx82net View Post
            Nice little driver. I'm using one in a 0.2l enclosure with a ND65-PR, tuned to allow crossover to a sub at 130Hz. Required about 1.5g of added mass.

            I'm using it as a replacement for the TEBM28C10, which seems to have been discontinued.

            oh really? was that the one that Hexabass used in that weird TL build? i was going to try it out :(

            i built a DMA45-4 project a few months back using the DMA58PR's that Tom posted me, plus some other chinese PR's and it was actually suprisingly good for a little 6.5V setup. Doesnt shake the walls with bass, but still a nice little portable build. I do though think that this will be better potentially. Also i can fit a 26650 battery in there with 4200MAH capacity in lieu of the 16350 (1100MAH) so should be interesting.

            I know you like to do some printing, so more than happy to flick you the STL's for this one if you like, i had to redo it over the weekend, which the back section will be finished in a few hours. At the moment im wondering if i was to get a 5v LED/RGB kit would it project through 5-10mm think PLA.

            Comment

            • #7
              Don't build Hexibase's Mini TL, its awful!
              I built it and it has such bad pipe resonances I needed something to do with the drivers, so I designed this:
              Desktop Obelisk Micro Tower Speaker by zx82net
              https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4762555
              Update 11/24/21: Added stand for 1.5 way configuration These are sleek desktop satellite speakers, with a 3D printed enclosure. They have a very small foot print, but are tall enough to stand above desk-top clutter. Tectonic BMR drivers give excellent dispersion, and the bass extension is 110Hz. I love the Tectonic BMR drivers, they sound great and I really like the way they look. I had some of these tiny 28mm drivers and wanted to find a design they would excel in. Modeling in WinISD I found they are a perfect match for the Dayton Audio ND65-PR. As built, the measured frequency response matches the model, and I've used a calibrated microphone to generate an optimized equalization curve. I've added a version of the stand with space in the bottom for mounting a 15uF capacitor to making it a 1.5 way system. See diagram and photo above for wiring and explanation. I used these capacitors, others will work provided they are not significantly larger:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JQH6G3P Here's a sound demo running with my P-CUBE subwoofer, listen with headphones:https://youtu.be/HtjmpNfu1sg The EQ settings used this video here are shown in the images. My subwoofer design is here:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4706916 The amplifier used in the demo is here:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4761687 If you like it, please hit like! Specifications: 110Hz-20kHz Wide Dispersion Design Twin Tectonic BMR 28mm Active Drivers Twin Dayton Audio 65mm Passive Radiators 8 ohm impedance 40W Peak Power Dimensions 68mm x 238mm x 51mm Prints on Ender-3 Size Bed For a bigger 2-way speaker that doesn't need a subwoofer, check out my LCM: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5077425 Check out my other designs here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3384017Components, per Desktop Obelisk speaker: 2x Tectonic TEBM28C10 BMR 28mm full range driver:https://www.parts-express.com/Tectonic-TEBM28C10-4-A-1-1-8-BMR-Full-Range-Speaker-4-Ohm-297-2172 2x Dayton Audio ND65-PR 2.5″ Passive Radiator:https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-ND65-PR-2-1-2-Aluminum-Cone-Passive-Radiator-290-205 ~300g printer filament of your choice Speaker cable that will squeeze through a 5x7mm hole 16x M3 screws for the drivers, 4x M3 screws for the stand Optional, 2x Standard 60mm x 60mm Steel Fan Guard:https://www.parts-express.com/NTE-77-MG60-60mm-Metal-Fan-Guard-250-082 Enclosure Assembly: Print with 3 perimeters and 60% infill, lying on its side, per the stl file. Poke out the integrated supports from the cutouts. Fit the stand, if you are going to use it. Run the speaker cable through the guide, seal it with putty or silicone. Fit the active drivers, wiring them in series. Remove the wingnuts AND the threaded washers from the PR’s. Fit the PR’s, making sure the internal cables don’t clash with the threaded rods. The front trim panel can be glued, or just fixed with blue tack, if you want the option of changing colors in the future.

              (Which I took to InDIYana 2021)

              Comment

              • #8
                Originally posted by zx82net View Post
                Don't build Hexibase's Mini TL, its awful!
                I built it and it has such bad pipe resonances I needed something to do with the drivers, so I designed this:
                Desktop Obelisk Micro Tower Speaker by zx82net
                https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4762555
                Update 11/24/21: Added stand for 1.5 way configuration These are sleek desktop satellite speakers, with a 3D printed enclosure. They have a very small foot print, but are tall enough to stand above desk-top clutter. Tectonic BMR drivers give excellent dispersion, and the bass extension is 110Hz. I love the Tectonic BMR drivers, they sound great and I really like the way they look. I had some of these tiny 28mm drivers and wanted to find a design they would excel in. Modeling in WinISD I found they are a perfect match for the Dayton Audio ND65-PR. As built, the measured frequency response matches the model, and I've used a calibrated microphone to generate an optimized equalization curve. I've added a version of the stand with space in the bottom for mounting a 15uF capacitor to making it a 1.5 way system. See diagram and photo above for wiring and explanation. I used these capacitors, others will work provided they are not significantly larger:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JQH6G3P Here's a sound demo running with my P-CUBE subwoofer, listen with headphones:https://youtu.be/HtjmpNfu1sg The EQ settings used this video here are shown in the images. My subwoofer design is here:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4706916 The amplifier used in the demo is here:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4761687 If you like it, please hit like! Specifications: 110Hz-20kHz Wide Dispersion Design Twin Tectonic BMR 28mm Active Drivers Twin Dayton Audio 65mm Passive Radiators 8 ohm impedance 40W Peak Power Dimensions 68mm x 238mm x 51mm Prints on Ender-3 Size Bed For a bigger 2-way speaker that doesn't need a subwoofer, check out my LCM: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5077425 Check out my other designs here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3384017Components, per Desktop Obelisk speaker: 2x Tectonic TEBM28C10 BMR 28mm full range driver:https://www.parts-express.com/Tectonic-TEBM28C10-4-A-1-1-8-BMR-Full-Range-Speaker-4-Ohm-297-2172 2x Dayton Audio ND65-PR 2.5″ Passive Radiator:https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-ND65-PR-2-1-2-Aluminum-Cone-Passive-Radiator-290-205 ~300g printer filament of your choice Speaker cable that will squeeze through a 5x7mm hole 16x M3 screws for the drivers, 4x M3 screws for the stand Optional, 2x Standard 60mm x 60mm Steel Fan Guard:https://www.parts-express.com/NTE-77-MG60-60mm-Metal-Fan-Guard-250-082 Enclosure Assembly: Print with 3 perimeters and 60% infill, lying on its side, per the stl file. Poke out the integrated supports from the cutouts. Fit the stand, if you are going to use it. Run the speaker cable through the guide, seal it with putty or silicone. Fit the active drivers, wiring them in series. Remove the wingnuts AND the threaded washers from the PR’s. Fit the PR’s, making sure the internal cables don’t clash with the threaded rods. The front trim panel can be glued, or just fixed with blue tack, if you want the option of changing colors in the future.

                (Which I took to InDIYana 2021)
                yes i've seen those, they look quite nice. I honestly keep looking for different designs and still chasing the smallest as well, so his design didnt suit my hunger lol.

                Comment

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