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  • #16
    The circle jig is awesome. I think that's the first time I've seen someone use a threaded rod to move the pivot point.

    Do you find you have to do test cuts before routing the baffle, or do you have it dialed in to certain diameters somehow?
    Isn't it about time we started answering rhetorical questions?

    Paul Carmody's DIY Audio Projects
    Twitter: @undefinition1

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    • DeZZar
      DeZZar commented
      Editing a comment
      One day when I get around to making a better one I'll have a measurement system dialled in for it so its just a case of setting it like a table saw and cutting - but for now I generally measure it, then do a quick little test cut on some scrap and then cut all the circles I need for that radius before moving on to the next size.

  • #17
    Super Awesome circle jig!

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    • #18
      Are these going to be left uncovered to show off the drivers or do you also have a grill design planned?
      My first 2way build

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      • DeZZar
        DeZZar commented
        Editing a comment
        These will end up in a house with small kids so they'll get a grill. It will just press fit over the raised baffle.

    • #19
      The only problem with that Circle jig is the single fact that adjustment can take a considerable amount of time. I suppose it's no different than a C-clamp, but the longer the adjustment, the longer the time between cuts. I'd be tempted to have a crank rather than knob for adjustment, or a way to facilitate the aid of a drill/driver for speed change. A spring loaded slip-joint with inside threads would be ideal, and likely 3D printable.

      When i made mine, this why i did not go with all thread.

      Just spitballing....
      Wolf
      "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
      "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
      "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
      "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

      *InDIYana event website*

      Photobucket pages:
      https://app.photobucket.com/u/wolf_teeth_speaker

      My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
      http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

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      • DeZZar
        DeZZar commented
        Editing a comment
        Its a little better because its actually more like an Acme thread - not like a normal bolt - so it has a much longer pitch to it - it doesn't take long at all - but then again I'm not really going from one extreme to the other. Usually tweeter first, then midrange then woofer so from a change in radius point of view its just a few inches at a time. If I was needing to go from one end to the other I might create a thread release kind of mechanism where you can just press it down and slide it the whole way manually - but its never really been an issue.

    • #20
      Yeah, but that dust collector and flashlight router-base, dude!



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      • #21
        I have dust collecting on my build as well.
        Wolf
        "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
        "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
        "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
        "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

        *InDIYana event website*

        Photobucket pages:
        https://app.photobucket.com/u/wolf_teeth_speaker

        My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
        http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

        Comment


        • #22
          Originally posted by Paul Carmody View Post
          The circle jig is awesome. I think that's the first time I've seen someone use a threaded rod to move the pivot point.

          Do you find you have to do test cuts before routing the baffle, or do you have it dialed in to certain diameters somehow?
          Should be able to measure from the outside of the bit to the center of the pin. Craftsman used to have very simple jig. We had several of them at the car audio shop that I worked at in my younger days.

          Comment


          • Paul Carmody
            Paul Carmody commented
            Editing a comment
            Oh I know how they work. It's how I used to do it before I broke down and bought a Jasper Jig. I really don't like that JJs are so fragile, but it's hard to beat how easy and quick they are to use.

        • #23
          DeZZar - did you use VituixCAD to determine ideal driver placement/offset - if so, were you specifying the enclosure width based on the protruding baffle, or the full width of the speaker?

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          • #24
            Originally posted by Wolf View Post
            I have dust collecting on my build as well.
            Wolf
            Classic!
            Craig

            I drive way too fast to worry about cholesterol.

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            • #25
              Originally posted by dkalsi View Post
              did you use VituixCAD to determine ideal driver placement/offset - if so, were you specifying the enclosure width based on the protruding baffle, or the full width of the speaker?
              Yes. For these I specified the width based on the protruding surface. I figured there might be some unknown oddities to deal with based on the stepped edges but there isn't really a way to model that exactly.

              Just off centre seemed best for these. The "best" positions are usually impractical so it's always a game of compromises.
              Constructions: Dayton+SB 2-Way v1 | Dayton+SB 2-Way v2 | Fabios (SB Monitors)
              Refurbs: KLH 2 | Rega Ela Mk1

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              • #26
                I am inspired to start my build, just need lumber prices to fall before August! Great work!

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