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What's wrong with my C-notes?

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  • billfitzmaurice
    commented on 's reply
    I can only surmise that they're not comprehending what you're saying. To the extent that driver break in will have any effect it will be with the woofer, not the tweeter, and it's mainly seen in a downward shift of Fs.

  • joshshetter
    replied
    Originally posted by 129Decibel View Post
    Check the woofers is one out of phase (no bass) crossover looks good if + and - are correct on tweeter and woofer.
    Did you read the thread at all?

    Leave a comment:


  • 129Decibel
    replied
    Check the woofers is one out of phase (no bass) crossover looks good if + and - are correct on tweeter and woofer.

    Leave a comment:


  • joshshetter
    replied
    I have double and triple checked the wiring, it is correct.

    I will test the components.

    Leave a comment:


  • dst
    replied
    I would think you have one of two issues:

    1) improperly wired crossover
    2) incorrect crossover component values

    Double and triple check them both.

    Leave a comment:


  • joshshetter
    replied
    I hope PE in house people can help because this is proving to be extremely unhelpful. Why on earth am I getting multiple suggestions about driver break in when that clearly has nothing to do with my issues?

    It may be helpful to look at the photos of my xovers before commenting on their construction.

    I removed C3 entirely from the xover and get the same response. Do I have it in the right place?

    Leave a comment:


  • tomzarbo
    replied
    Without looking at any of the pics, my guess is that I think you may have made an error in the crossover construction. I've designed and built dozens of speakers over the years and I STILL have trouble getting crossovers right the first time. Don't feel bad at all, it gets confusing. All those WIRES!!!

    Driver break-in really is a thing, or it can be.

    Look at the specs that Dayton supplies with their woofers online, and then DATS them yourself. Although Dayton drivers are very good and consistent, they are almost never the same.

    Break in the driver with some bass-heavy tunes or tones for an hour or so and the suspension (mostly the spider) will loosen up a bit. I can DATS a driver and flex the cone 3-4 times and get 2-3 Hz lower FS just from that. It shouldn't make a HUGE difference, but it can be audible, it's not hocus-pocus stuff... if the specs change after a good break-in, then so will the sound.

    Crossover components are carefully chosen due to a driver's specific frequency response and characteristics, if those characteristics are off by a bit because of a stiff spider or suspension, the resulting sound will also be 'off.'

    Production parts and processes can also be a factor from unit-to-unit.
    For example, I purchased some passive radiators from PE a few years ago and two of the same exact model had fairly different stiffnesses when pushed in. I could actually FEEL it!

    Anyway, keep at it, I hope you get it figured out!
    TomZ

    Leave a comment:


  • joshshetter
    replied
    Here's an easier to see picture of the tweeter xover, my phone has trouble at night, which is when I took the last photo.

    https://i.imgur.com/pgShMz8.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • joshshetter
    replied
    Originally posted by DeZZar View Post
    Is that the 6ohm resistor under the tape there on the left?
    Yes

    Leave a comment:


  • duanebro
    commented on 's reply
    Can you take a better picture of the crossover? Very difficult to see what is going on.

  • DeZZar
    replied
    Is that the 6ohm resistor under the tape there on the left?

    Leave a comment:


  • joshshetter
    replied
    I took the xover apart and rebuilt just the tweeter circuit, it's in a straight line so no room for error here (unless I am just fundamentally missing something here). Measures the same as before.

    Green is before, Red is the rebuild.

    https://imgur.com/hAgPcGW

    Here's a pic of the circuit.

    https://imgur.com/X9yqHTb

    See anything wrong there?

    Leave a comment:


  • billfitzmaurice
    replied
    Driver break in is real, but it's also slight, and it mainly occurs with drivers that have a long excursion, which is to say woofers and subs.

    Leave a comment:


  • joshshetter
    replied
    Driver break in? Really? Didn't expect to see that here. Respectfully no, that has nothing to do with my issues.

    PE support suggest break in and I just rolled my eyes....

    Leave a comment:


  • DrewsBrews
    replied
    How much have you played them? I'm lazy and never break in the drivers enough before I build the crossovers so they sound like absolute [email protected]&%# until they settle in. The first few hours is a horror show of "what have I done??" until it all chills out... though sometimes i find that a tweeter is rubbing the voice coil. I've had to replace a couple diaphragms due to that. Fortunately I live near PE so I can hand test the cone drivers at least.

    Leave a comment:

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